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Ext Cab Hilux Honcho w/ Steel Bed

I think I know why your coming along so quickly with the rebuild.....is that your Red Bull in the back ground?:mrgreen:

Looks like you really did some reinforcing this time around"thumbsup"
I'm a Monster Kinda guy, thats why there's only Redbulls left :lmao:



is there anyway, you can make a thread or a video on how to mold plastic together?? I have been meaning to do such a thing forever, but there were no pictures to guide me

It's really not that hard. Tamiya hard bodies are styrene, and styrene is a very malleable, porous, reactive plastic. It responds well to the right type of cement, I perfer Tenax 7R but the testors liquid cement in the glass jar works too. The trick to a nice finish is prepping your surface. In my case I needed to remove all the old styrene and get down to bare plastic, Kind of like welding metal. Then you need to get a good flat surface, so you can maximize your contact area, in my case I used a belt sander top flatten the back of the cab so that I had a perpendicular and flat surface to start with, then I started bonding the large flat strip in, these are providing the majority of the support for the halves where the halves but I applied cement to to directly bond the two and reduce the need for filler. Across the top I cut strips to fill the gap then once the 2 were at the same height I made one wide strip and tapered one end to make up for the difference in heights between the two...... Now for the bondo, fill in the little pin holes and slight differences and get to sanding :mrgreen: careful not to overdo it and lose the detail of the factory lines"thumbsup" If you want to use less bondo, you can take styrene and sand a large pile of styrene dust mix it with cement and make a paste, then fill your seams with the paste sor a sandable seamless finish. I however am lazy
 
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I'm a Monster Kinda guy, thats why there's only Redbulls left :lmao:





It's really not that hard. Tamiya hard bodies are styrene, and styrene is a very malleable, porous, reactive plastic. It responds well to the right type of cement, I perfer Tenax 7R but the testors liquid cement in the glass jar works too. The trick to a nice finish is prepping your surface. In my case I needed to remove all the old styrene and get down to bare plastic, Kind of like welding metal. Then you need to get a good flat surface, so you can maximize your contact area, in my case I used a belt sander top flatten the back of the cab so that I had a perpendicular and flat surface to start with, then I started bonding the large flat strip in, these are providing the majority of the support for the halves where the halves but I applied cement to to directly bond the two and reduce the need for filler. Across the top I cut strips to fill the gap then once the 2 were at the same height I made one wide strip and tapered one end to make up for the difference in heights between the two...... Now for the bondo, fill in the little pin holes and slight differences and get to sanding :mrgreen: careful not to overdo it and lose the detail of the factory lines"thumbsup" If you want to use less bondo, you can take styrene and sand a large pile of styrene dust mix it with cement and make a paste, then fill your seams with the paste sor a sandable seamless finish. I however am lazy
Thanks for the info..Great knowledge."thumbsup"
 
Minor update. Swapped out the OEM drivelines for a bit more beef. I used a set of CVD's for dig, the shorter shaft works well in the back with the shortened WB and keeps the driveline from binding"thumbsup"
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Bondo Again! Hopefully this will be the last time:lmao:

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I have some goodies coming in from Norm (Team3Six) here in the next few so look for some major work to be done in the near future"thumbsup"
 
VERY NICE, i love it. I think you used a little too much body filler lmao. Just Kidding. Keep the build pics coming. I love them
 
Awesome, really like the cage and flatbed"thumbsup"

Is the headache rack/rollbar portion's main hoop by the cab just slightly larger than the cab itself? Hard to tell in the pictures, it does look a little taller than the cab roofline.
 
Awesome, really like the cage and flatbed"thumbsup"

Is the headache rack/rollbar portion's main hoop by the cab just slightly larger than the cab itself? Hard to tell in the pictures, it does look a little taller than the cab roofline.

It's shaped to match the cabs dimension, once it's finally assembled the top of the tube will be just over the cab for a little protection.

Alright..........bondo that mean you're almost done!!!

Keep em comin.
It's getting closer.



I'm thinking..... what do you think about instead of the sky blue, if I did a Light gunmetal and a flat black hood? Opinions please"thumbsup"
 
second coat is dry and sanded looks much better, whipped out the little files to clean out the body lined and help retain the body lines, the big sanding pad tends to soften everything.

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wow your great at sanding. What did you use to sand it down with?? Like power tools or man power??
I used a couple different grits of foam sanding pads. then when I was close I used a rigid sanding block to make sure all my bondo and styrene didn't have any waves. power tools have too much power and will eat or melt the styrene"thumbsup"
 
one last coat to finish it up. I filled a sew of the gouges in the fenders and on the cab back so everything will be purdy smooth. Then I'm off to repainting"thumbsup"


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looks like your gonna need to do more sanding on the roof lol, and some more body filler at the sides lol. Looks very good so far, i love it
 
Final paint is on, Light Gun Metal over a Flat black hood!"thumbsup"

Once the paint fully cures I'll go back and do the body lines and door trim in black

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