Evil's Rockshow SS Build...taking my berg to the next level.

[Pdog7]

Installed along with the new round stock tie rod (thanks to Helhedded).

Looks like your bearing is walking out of the tube and could cause binding with the super 300. I had to lock-tite mine to keep it seated."thumbsup"

 

[EvilTwin v2]

Looks like your bearing is walking out of the tube and could cause binding with the super 300. I had to lock-tite mine to keep it seated."thumbsup"

Yeah. It was. I noticed it shortly afterward and hit it with some red loctite.

 

[Harvo]

Those look like 600 hubs you run now. Is that correct? Do the wheel weights rub at all? Would they with the original slw capheads?

I just got some of the knuckle weights but I don't have the 8* stuff yet.

What is your width in front now?

 

[EvilTwin v2]

Those look like 600 hubs you run now. Is that correct? Do the wheel weights rub at all? Would they with the original slw capheads?

I just got some of the knuckle weights but I don't have the 8* stuff yet.

What is your width in front now?

Somehow or other, I lost track of what hubs were what. I still have a bigger offset hub on the rear of my AX10 based sportsman and even bigger on the front, which I assumed were 600's and 725's, but could easily be the 725's and 850's???

Where are the measurements taken on their hubs? I can pull out the calipers and measure them.

I'll measure the width of the rig and post up in a few minutes...

 

[Harvo]

Thanks! The two you have in your pic look like a 475 and a 600.

If your width is around 11" even, they should be 600's.

Do you like Ron's weights better than the Dlux knuckle weights?

 

[EvilTwin v2]

Thanks! The two you have in your pic look like a 475 and a 600.

If your width is around 11" even, they should be 600's.

Do you like Ron's weights better than the Dlux knuckle weights?

They probably are 600's. I just measured, and from outside of lug to ouside of lug on my narrowed Sedonas on 1" SLW's, I'm at 11" on the nose. The only reason that I need to run the additional hex spacer is that I either have a bent wheel or bent shaft, and without the spacer, I get a slight rubbing on one side.

As for a comparison, I've never run them back to back, and I'm not sure how much of it is the 8* stuff w/ a bit more caster and how much is due to the weights, but this rig is now a sidehilling beast. I've only been able to get out one time since building it, but I was amazed at how much better it performed than before.

I'm a big fan of the D-Lux knuckle weights (the amount of machining that goes into them is pretty impressive for the price), and they were moved to my Sportsman, but I really like how the weight is mostly below the center line of the axle with BigRon's weights.

I just wanted to add that even with more width than I'm used to running, I was able to navigate the courses and gates far better than ever before.

 

[EvilTwin v2]

Here's some video of the berg on a test course.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_profilepage&v=QxMXnGroe3s

 

[ClassicGMJunkie]

your cameraman is awesome!

 

[EvilTwin v2]

Some updates...

Carbon fiber chassis (2mm side plates w/ 1.5mm cab)...

Big Rons rear weights...

SLW V1 Respuns w/ a new set of Khaos reds on Sedona sidewalls...

 

[RickM]

Dont think I realized you were running the Proline shocks until now. I am running the same inverted. I was not happy with the shocks mountings at the body of the shocks o I did a 3 mil mod with a traxxas rod end.

Just FWI for you.

 

[Harvo]

Does your battery or plate hit your upper links before you get full shock compression while flexing?

I will be able to tilt my frontend forward almost as far as yours as soon as I make a curved tie rod. If I went that far though, my battery would deifinitely stop the suspension flex.

 

[EvilTwin v2]

Dont think I realized you were running the Proline shocks until now. I am running the same inverted. I was not happy with the shocks mountings at the body of the shocks o I did a 3 mil mod with a traxxas rod end.

Just FWI for you.

I have a wee bit of slop in the shocks, but not so much that I've noticed it while driving. I mounted them with Revo rod end balls and washers.

Does your battery or plate hit your upper links before you get full shock compression while flexing?

I will be able to tilt my frontend forward almost as far as yours as soon as I make a curved tie rod. If I went that far though, my battery would deifinitely stop the suspension flex.

I have my upper links bent in such a way that I have full shock travel while flexing. It took a while to get the bends just right. "thumbsup"

 

[SkaldidDog]

Those front knuckle weights would look cool with faux small caliber brass bullet weights. Nice work.

 

[Stick King]

Those front knuckle weights would look cool with faux small caliber brass bullet weights. Nice work.

We run tungsten weights normally used for pinewood derby cars.

 

[EvilTwin v2]

Those front knuckle weights would look cool with faux small caliber brass bullet weights. Nice work.

As Stick King mentioned, the weights are tungsten, which has a significanlty higher mass than brass. Those weights are roughly 1/2 oz each and are about 1/3 smaller than the VP brass LH weights (which are also about 1/2 oz each).