Dlux ULTRA Chassis

[Erik D_lux]

THESE WILL START SHIPPING AS OF MONDAY 9/16/13

I am proud to offer up the new Dlux chassis!

The geometry in this chassis has been in testing for over 2yrs. I have made chassis in the past but I have never wanted to sell them until I was really, really confident in the geometry. I have had great confidence in the past months but not until recently have I been as equally pleased with the looks. I feel I now have both so it is up for sale!

The chassis meets all USRCCA specs by just a touch in every direction

Choose from carbon fiber for the bling or from G10 for great strength at a reduced cost

All cross braces are made from 6061 aluminum

Complete chassis with aluminum hardware comes in at 56g

Chassis is sold with panels

Comes with an oversize Polycarbonate skid. It is oversize so you can cut to your personalized taste. I have found that Polycarbonate is better than Delrin as it is harder and allows for easier sliding.

***Now available with a 7075 skid plate****



Upper and lower links are available on my website

Please go to dluxfab.com/products for pricing and ordering.

 

[Erik D_lux]

The chassis comes with a full set of panels. The panels need to be bent. The best way to do this is on a counter top or over a sharp edge. The side and hood panels will have score marks if you want to drill holes. Since there are multiple ways to secure the roof, there are no holes.

The chassis comes with the following hardware:
2- Flat head 3x6 for the skid
4- Button head 3x6 for the roof
8- Button head 3x16 for the shocks and lower links
4- Button head 3x18 (3x20 if ordering steel) for the upper links.

Make sure you dont mix up the 3x16 and 3x18 for the upper links. If you do, you will chance not having enough thread in the upper links and stripping them out.


The chassis comes with the following braces:
1- 2” brace – Between rear shocks
2- 2.25” braces – 2 on the roof
1- 2.25" bent brace between the front shocks
2- 1.75” braces – between the upper link mounts

When installing the front shock brace make sure you have the nose brace out. It’s a pretty stressed area and if you try to move the bigger shock brace without giving yourself some give, you could have issues.

The chassis comes with 8 - 1/8” plastic spacers.
You will need these spacers (please see description and pictures below):
Between the rear shocks and chassis, not between the rear shocks and brace.
Between the front shocks and cab
Between the small chassis plate and lower links, not between the lower links and skid brace.

The chassis comes with 4 - steel offset/center rod balls.
Between the upper links and small chassis plate, not between the upper links and cab. This is where you should have your 3" wide measurement to meet specs.

The rear shock configuration may vary depending on the setup. For example, I use mine such as in the pictures. It does take some work with bent rod ends and being in the right holes/right spots on the axles. You will most likely have to put the shocks on the outside of the chassis if you go to a further in hole or a hole upwards. This will just depend on your setup.






This is how I like to set up my rear shocks. Notice that they are inside the chassis. This makes it so there are no hang ups and smooth sliding. You will need the 1/8" plastic spacer and bent ends to achieve this without binding. Like said above, I use the rear most and lowest hole. If you use other holes, you may have other work arounds.

 

[Erik D_lux]

Setup:

Links
For an initial setup try putting the upper links in the middle holes front and rear. I like the front to be in the closest to the middle and the rear closest to the rear axle.

Shocks
My shocks measure 3.875 extended, 3.060 collapsed.

The rear should accommodate most everybody’s desires to put the shock angle where you want. For the front, due to the design, I had to settle on 3 holes. With the shock lengths above, you should be pretty satisfied. If not, you can make the shock shorter to get less of an angle and longer to get more of an angle.

I like to put the front shocks as wide at the chassis as possible without getting into the shocks too much. I like the width of the rears exactly where the 2” brace puts you.

 

[Erik D_lux]

Here are a couple examples of RTR rigs with the chassis.

 

[Erik D_lux]

Save 4

 

[wrightcs77]

looks nice

 

[Calderwood]

Save 5

 

[Erik D_lux]

looks nice

"thumbsup"

Save 5

I was going to change my last one just so people didnt know what youre talking about :mrgreen:

 

[Calderwood]

"thumbsup"



I was going to change my last one just so people didnt know what youre talking about :mrgreen:

The chassis looks great!

 

[Crawllife]

Ill be hitting you up soon for the new stuff I need to switch over. It looks meaner and if rollover was one of the main focal points, I'm in.
Still no new addition??

 

[ittybitty]

It's definitely a well executed setup...and I wouldn't expect anything less knowing how Erik likes to tune his parts as much as possible to achieve the best end result.

Can't wait to see one in person "thumbsup"

 

[rcjunky3]

nice job Erik chassis looks great

 

[JeremyH]

Nice work Erik! "thumbsup"

 

[Erik D_lux]

Ill be hitting you up soon for the new stuff I need to switch over. It looks meaner and if rollover was one of the main focal points, I'm in.
Still no new addition??

Cool. Cant wait. Thanks again for all your support!

No addition yet. Even I am getting stressed about how big its getting! Should be close to 9lb! :shock:

It's definitely a well executed setup...and I wouldn't expect anything less knowing how Erik likes to tune his parts as much as possible to achieve the best end result.

Can't wait to see one in person "thumbsup"

Thanks :mrgreen:

nice job Erik chassis looks great

Thanks Rich!

Nice work Erik! "thumbsup"

Thanks Jeremy!

 

[ittybitty]

Got mine in the mail today and it's even better looking in person 8) The curves that the chassis takes on as you install the various lengths of cross braces really make this chassis look great...not to mention it's incredibly rigid once it's all buttoned up.

 

[Erik D_lux]

Everybody has been shipped and I have some in stock "thumbsup"

 

[Erik D_lux]

Back in stock again "thumbsup"

 

[all24]

I am super interested in you chassis There are so many ? to ask but let me start off with wight difference between the two materials and strength. next would be a complete kit build with everything but electronics i cant find any prices it all in pieces. Please let me know Thanks for reading

 

[ax10tn]

On his website you can build a complete roller minus electronics from berg axles ,shafts ,gears, chassis ,links ,shocks and wheels it's easier to do from a computer vs a phone or taplet . On his post at the bottom right Cornor his a link to his website you can go through and build it with whichever material you want on the chassis and wheels put it in your cart and it will even give you the amount on your shipping.. Hope this helps

 

[Erik D_lux]

I am super interested in you chassis There are so many ? to ask but let me start off with wight difference between the two materials and strength. next would be a complete kit build with everything but electronics i cant find any prices it all in pieces. Please let me know Thanks for reading

The weight of G10 and Carbon will be very similar. In my experience, carbon is stronger and the place that carbon really seems to shine over G10 is in abrasion resistance. G10 has its place, such as on a wheel and I have a couple guys running the Dlux chassis in G10 and they have taken a beating but, I think I would do CF chassis over a G10. If cost is a big issue, go G10. If colors are a big issue, go G10.

As said above, you can build an entire car on my site using many different parts. "thumbsup"