Comanche Build - Very Scale - SCX10

[Spidernad]

Here are a few shots from today when I was making a video of the first test runs on the truck.

BTW, adding the spring between the diff gears really didn't limit the slip on the open diffs, so I think this concludes my "open diffs/limited slip diffs" test. (I'm tired of getting stuck on every pebble, lol)
It was an interesting fact finding mission, but in the end, unless your on hard flat ground, lockers are the way to go. (as if we didn't all already know that,lol)

 

[Super]

What did you use for your head lights?

 

[fla_cracker]

Just for fun I put the Mud Slingers and 1.55 steel wheels on to see how it would look with over-sized tires. Definitely too big for a stock ride height Comanche. I will probably go with the 1.55 Mud Thrashers like I did on the Cherokee. They should fit without rubbing, even with the low ride height.

Looks pretty scale for South to Central Florida...... Almost all built trucks are low ride hight and huge tires...Thats how we run the mud and swamps. Lots of horse power and wheel spin.....

Great build.. "thumbsup"

 

[Spidernad]

What did you use for your head lights?

Sorry, I posted about them in the Cherokee thread but forgot to in this one.

These are pictures of the headlights from the Cherokee build. (same install)

I used the RC4WD Super Bright Scale Light System for the tail lights and to plug the headlights into.
I de-soldered the resistor and bridged the gap with solder on one of the channels where the lights plug into on the board where I plug the headlights in so they would have full battery power.
(they wont work off the low voltage that the LED's use.)
I also removed the 9v battery lead on the headlights and soldered on a pigtail that has the same end as the LED's so I could use the trucks 7.4v Lipo for power instead of a separate 9v battery.

Super Bright Scale Light System 2

 

[Spidernad]

Got my Scaler Music Video finished.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/B24Yrc4G-sI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Super]

Thanks man, I was wondering if you made the buckets or not. Very cool truck!"thumbsup"

 

[Spidernad]

Thanks man, I was wondering if you made the buckets or not. Very cool truck!"thumbsup"

Thanks.

No, I just masked off the light area inside the body so it would be clear and then just Shoo Goo'ed these RaM lights in place.

I have buckets from the Tamaya Wrangler but that seemed like a lot of work so my lazy ass went this route. It works great really. (copied it from a Comanche Youtube video)

 

[user.name]

wow. I really like those RAM headlights. I didn't know they existed.

 

[Spidernad]

wow. I really like those RAM headlights. I didn't know they existed.

Yea, and made in the USA too!

The headlights are incandescent lights (Tungsten filaments) just like the full scale Jeep headlights, not LED's, so they give off a very realistic light color and brightness.

I used a Opto coupled switch hooked up to the receiver's channel three and plugged the light unit into it. This makes it so the lights can be turned off and on by the transmitter's channel three button.

The lights are also powered through the receiver so there is no need for a separate battery.

 

[BubbaEinstein]

Sucks about the limited slip experiment...I've got half the parts sitting around to give it a shot...guess I'll stare at them and see if I can come up with another idea (although I think yours was the best I've seen).

 

[mitchr97]

maybe a stiffer spring???

 

[Spidernad]

Sucks about the limited slip experiment...I've got half the parts sitting around to give it a shot...guess I'll stare at them and see if I can come up with another idea (although I think yours was the best I've seen).

Part of the problem is that these scale RC vehicles are so light.

A 1:1 vehicle has so much more mass, that it gets some of it's traction just from the weight of the vehicle pressing the tires into the terrain.

A full scale Jeep Cherokee is 3357 lbs, so if a 1/10 scale Cherokee weighed 1/10 of that it would be 337.5 lbs. That sure would be pushing the tires into the ground, lol, I doubt the tires would slip so much then!

At 5~7 pounds, the RC version is just about floating on top of the dirt, and that's how it feels when I drive it, it just doesn't penetrate the surface.
Even with lockers, it just slips all four tires then. Adding 6 oz. to each front tire and 3 oz. to each rear tire is what brought the truck up from 5 lbs. to 7 lbs. That did help but still no where near the mass proportionate to a full scale.

But yea, it would be cool to get the open diffs to act more like a real LSD, that would make it much closer to the traction of using lockers.

I kind of figured it was gonna be disappointing because again, these things already get little traction even with lockers, at least in loose dirt anyway, hard surfaces their not to bad though.

Anyway, how about Courtney Force getting her first Funny Car win today!

 

[foratm]

This is now my favorite build. It is absolutely amazing! Awesome job."thumbsup"

 

[Spidernad]

This is now my favorite build. It is absolutely amazing! Awesome job."thumbsup"

Your just sayin' that because of the hot chick in the bikini! lol

But seriously, thanks, I'm glad your diggin' it.

I'm waiting for my son to come home from vacation so we can shoot a video of the Comanche and the Cherokee together.

While I'm waiting, I started on a Grand Cherokee build and I still have the secret Ford build to finish up, so stay tuned..

 

[fullsizecrawler]

a truely awsome build

 

[Spidernad]

a truely awsome build

"thumbsup"

 

[Spidernad]

Sorry I haven't posted any updates for a while, I've been so busy on the Grand Cherokee build and also non RC stuff. (Ugh!)

I haven't even started the Grand Cherokee thread yet, but I will.

Still have to post the rest of this build first.

Okay, so this post will cover the headlight/tail light install and the light unit/opto switch.

Here are pics of the tail lights mounted in the rear section of the interior that was not being used after it was cut off from the front section.
It was later glued in place under the bed with ShooGoo.

Headlights / Tail lights installed.

This is the RC4WD light unit that I start with.

I wanted to run all the lights from the truck's Lipo battery and be able to turn them off and on from the Radio's channel 3 switch, so in order to use the RAM Headlights (which run at a higher voltage than LED's) with this light unit, I removed the resistor from one of the 12 plug socket circuits on the light unit so it will pass full battery power to that plug for the Headlights.
I marked that plug socket so I will know not to plug any LED's into it and burn them out by mistake.

You can see the resistors on the back of the circuit board. (R1 - R12)
I removed the one for the number 5 socket (R5) and bridged the gap with solder to complete the circuit.

This is the RCEXL optically coupled engine kill switch that I use any time I need a receiver controlled on/off switch.

The switch comes with instructions on how you can modify it to use the receiver power to run the load instead of a separate battery input, which is what I want, so I did the mods (simple solder bridges) and also removed the "power on" LED since it won't be seen. I also switched the male "power out" lead to the female lead I removed from the old "power in" location so I can plug the light unit right in to it. See pics below.

This is the setup all finished. Just plug it into channel 3 on the receiver and you have a cheap light system that can be turned on and off from your radio.

 

[muddinscx]

Great build but the only jeeps that were 6 lug were the grand wagoneers and stuff. Unless the 6 lug was intentinal...?

 

[k_bojar]

dumb question...on the RC4wd shocks you got, where did you get the softer shock springs?? I know you didn't mention it in this thread - but its more current then the your cherokee thread

I know you made your own - but did you buy softer ones? the ones that mine came with are like rocks

 

[Grand954l]

so sweet haha