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Choosing a motor and ESC for your Wraith - Gearing Added!

Thanks, sorry for the newb question but, how do i know if the engine runs hot or not? I have a nitro engine buggy this is my first experience with eletrical rc. I plan to use stock gearing for now to go uphills but in otder to climb i will go throtle all the way, how can i see the temps? I dont have a thermal gun to measure it. If i buy the gearing you said will it be fine? Or it will be better to go to the pro4 3300kv motor and reduce the trotle in the trsnsmitter so it will not give so much punch and break things, in order to work with a lower temp or i just should use 3s batteries to foff and 2s to trails and crawling(i already have a 2s 5000 mah 50c from vennon) ?
Thanks but i am really concerned with motor temps going up hills with 34degrees in sand o will use it most of time on sand and dirt, no water and some crawling too.
Cravo

Sounds like you should just get the pro4, it will have more "punch" and help in the sand.

Run 3s and the gearing Harley suggested, definately 32pitch with that motor.

No temp gun? you should be able to hold your finger on the motor for a minimum of 3-5 seconds... that's approx 140F or 60C. I don't run more than 60-65C on motors I like. That way if you have a bearing go bad and find your motor 20C hotter than normal it's only at 80C and not a paperweight.

2s will work great for going slow.

Plan on buying all the available drivetrain upgrades soon. Trans gears, diffs/lockers, and driveshafts... get spares of these if you don't have a lhs, axles too. No whining when parts start flying off of it either :D

Cheers
Speed
 
I think im gonna wait for the gen 2 motors form tekin supposed to be SICK!"thumbsup"

What can it possibly do better in your application?

1 The current pro4 already has more than enough power to utterly dominate your stock drivetrain.
2 On a 4000mah 3s pack I'd expect runtimes in the 45min range.
3 The motors already pretty light and has the short can. The Wraith is a heavy turd so weights not even part of the conversation really.

Will the gen 2 motor make you a ham sandwich? if not then it's just hype for the racer types.

Best part about the gen 2's is there's a bunch of people selling the first ones! "thumbsup"
 
Sounds like you should just get the pro4, it will have more "punch" and help in the sand.

Run 3s and the gearing Harley suggested, definately 32pitch with that motor.

No temp gun? you should be able to hold your finger on the motor for a minimum of 3-5 seconds... that's approx 140F or 60C. I don't run more than 60-65C on motors I like. That way if you have a bearing go bad and find your motor 20C hotter than normal it's only at 80C and not a paperweight.

2s will work great for going slow.

Plan on buying all the available drivetrain upgrades soon. Trans gears, diffs/lockers, and driveshafts... get spares of these if you don't have a lhs, axles too. No whining when parts start flying off of it either :D

Cheers
Speed

ok friend. Another help! i have a friend that is going to bring me the parts from miami. i would like you to point me everything i need tto buy to work with the pro4 3300kv.
since drivetrain, the works with url links of the parts so that i send a mail to my dealer and he has the parts ready when my friend arrives. i am newb on eletrical please help!!
I dont need that punch if i could i reduced it but i do need lower temps and some higher rpm to go uphills, but i plan to start slow and then going up with rpm slow not give it full throtle to break everything but have a better motor to run cooler and have rpm enough to climb hills with padlles maybe i will reduce the throtle on transmitter to save the car/parts i want it to last longer and with no problems. i live in brasil and its dificult to find parts here i have to buy from the states and wait till it arrives, and thats bad. about one month waiting until it arrives if they have the part on stock ;) .
cravo
 
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ok friend. Another help! i have a friend that is going to bring me the parts from miami. i would like you to point me everything i need tto buy to work with the pro4 3300kv.
since drivetrain, the works with url links of the parts so that i send a mail to my dealer and he has the parts ready when my friend arrives. i am newb on eletrical please help!!
I dont need that punch if i could i reduced it but i do need lower temps and some higher rpm to go uphills, but i plan to start slow and then going up with rpm slow not give it full throtle to break everything but have a better motor to run cooler and have rpm enough to climb hills with padlles maybe i will reduce the throtle on transmitter to save the car/parts i want it to last longer and with no problems. i live in brasil and its dificult to find parts here i have to buy from the states and wait till it arrives, and thats bad. about one month waiting until it arrives if they have the part on stock ;) .
cravo

All of this info is on the board here. Spend some time yourself and do the leg work rather then others doing it for you. I have more then one thread with links to each part. READ.
 
ok friend. Another help! i have a friend that is going to bring me the parts from miami. i would like you to point me everything i need tto buy to work with the pro4 3300kv.
since drivetrain, the works with url links of the parts so that i send a mail to my dealer and he has the parts ready when my friend arrives. i am newb on eletrical please help!!
I dont need that punch if i could i reduced it but i do need lower temps and some higher rpm to go uphills, but i plan to start slow and then going up with rpm slow not give it full throtle to break everything but have a better motor to run cooler and have rpm enough to climb hills with padlles maybe i will reduce the throtle on transmitter to save the car/parts i want it to last longer and with no problems. i live in brasil and its dificult to find parts here i have to buy from the states and wait till it arrives, and thats bad. about one month waiting until it arrives if they have the part on stock ;) .
cravo

Temperature has very little to do with what motor you pick, it all comes down to gearing.

Pick your favorite retailer (RPP) and start filling the basket!
Drivetrain...
Gears, 32pitch get 2 spurs and some pinions, what Harley suggested and maybe a tooth on each side of that for some flexibility
HD slipper setup, see page one of this thread, Harley list the pieces needed individually
Robinson trans gears, your top gear is metal stock, you need the 2 bigger gears, I see Robinson has a new 1 pc lower gear that looks badass
MIP driveshafts, I'd get 2 sets since there not readily available in your situation
Axial HD diff gears
No slop lockers of some sort, there are several options
Spare axles frt and rr
Spare HD hexes
Lots of spare bearings since your going to be playing in the sand
and spare wheel nuts

Chassis...
Alum Frt knuckles and C-hubs
steering and 4 links
Shocks
Droop brackets
Spare servos
Spare servo horns

Wheels with alum hexes, and spares

Mamba Max Pro or RS Pro
Castle 10A BEC
Pro4 or equivalent
Deans connectors and the ability to solder properly

Maybe an extra Wraith kit for the rest of the spare parts

"thumbsup"I think that's most of it

Speed

All of this info is on the board here. Spend some time yourself and do the leg work rather then others doing it for you. I have more then one thread with links to each part. READ.

DO what he said...
"All of this info is on the board here. Spend some time yourself and do the leg work rather then others doing it for you. I have more then one thread with links to each part"
It's all here a 100times, you just have to look.
Cheers
 
Ok just broke my brxl/hh 13t cm combo in on 2s and it seems to b in the 110-120* range. Running 56/12 with VP/tsls no weight added. I plan on running 3s most of the time and 4s for those mudd bogg events(2.2boggers). How much heat will my motor gain goin from 3s to 4s?(I've read my ratio should b fine for 3s) Should I gear down when I volt up like the old saying goes? or is my ratio good for the 4s? I just ordered 10 & 11t pinnions as well as a 54t spur just to have.
 
Ok just broke my brxl/hh 13t cm combo in on 2s and it seems to b in the 110-120* range. Running 56/12 with VP/tsls no weight added. I plan on running 3s most of the time and 4s for those mudd bogg events(2.2boggers). How much heat will my motor gain goin from 3s to 4s?(I've read my ratio should b fine for 3s) Should I gear down when I volt up like the old saying goes? or is my ratio good for the 4s? I just ordered 10 & 11t pinnions as well as a 54t spur just to have.

Every truck is different. Just monitor your temps and brushes. You'll eat up brushes quickly with 4s.
 
First off thanks for the info Harley.

I'm a newbie, I just purchased a wraith and I want to set it up for crawling. I'm thinking a good starting point would be Novak Timbuk2 13.5T System Wraith edition with 5A BEC. Is this a good set up? Should I be thinking about upgrading anything else to support this set up?

Or what about the axial 55t Rock crawler Electric crawler? Same questions as above.

Thanks
 
First off thanks for the info Harley.

I'm a newbie, I just purchased a wraith and I want to set it up for crawling. I'm thinking a good starting point would be Novak Timbuk2 13.5T System Wraith edition with 5A BEC. Is this a good set up? Should I be thinking about upgrading anything else to support this set up?

Or what about the axial 55t Rock crawler Electric crawler? Same questions as above.

Thanks


Avoid the Novak. Read the first few posts. It covers this. The beginners thread will answer the rest.
 
It may be on here but I haven't seen it. Best guesstimate what would be the top speed of the Tekin 13.5 brushless motor with stock gearing on 3s? Same conditions the top speed of the Tekin pro 4 ?
 
It may be on here but I haven't seen it. Best guesstimate what would be the top speed of the Tekin 13.5 brushless motor with stock gearing on 3s? Same conditions the top speed of the Tekin pro 4 ?

MPH is rarely talked about in crawling. The trucks are both faster then a run. Pro4 is faster by a decent amount. I'll post a video of me racing a 13.5 with my pro4. My truck has an easy 2 or 3 pounds on the other truck too.

Gray/orange truck, Pro4 3s, 11ish pounds.
Green truck, 13.5 3s, 8ish pounds.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/9EQAVi6z1SI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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I just bought a MMP and Redline 13,5T. :D On Tekins website I can see that they offer bigger rotors for the redline series motors. Would this have any effect? In cast I got bored. I just wonder.... Or I can always go bigger with the Pro4 3300Kv :p
 
Thanks for the video, both trucks kick ass! I was impressed. My 13.5 Tekin and mmp will be here in a few hours. While the pro 4 is obviously a faster choice, the 13.5 still rocks. Whew I can't wait. EXCITED is an understatement! :)8)"thumbsup"
 
I know I've asked before for my Wraith and the answer was 32p 54T spur and 32p 10T pinion for my 12T 550 Titan. Problem I'm running into is that because the motor is so big that it's butted against the side of the trans case and the pinion is just a tad too small to give me great gear mesh, which I feel is ultimately going to result in stripped spurs in a bind. So I figured going up to a 32p 56T spur might solve my problem.....except I can't find an LHS that has one on hand. Closest I've found is a 32p 58T, which would probably be big enough to get some gear mesh back, but that'll leave me with a 5.8:1 ratio. Should be good for torque I'd think, but I want some opinions from the experts. Harley? Holmes? Anyone that's not as much of a noob as me when it comes to the Wraith?
 
Okay, so I stayed up all night putting my Wraith back together so I could have it for the weekend. First time I've run it in almost 2 months! Motor is a Traxxas 12T 550 Titan on 32p 56/10 gearing (5.60:1) and it's still running hot to the point I can't leave my finger on it for more than a second. I apparently have the slipper a little loose, too, because when it gets in a bind, you can here it slip. I'm runnign a 5000mah 2s lipo and getting less than half way through it before things get hot. Can I chalk this one up to the 19T limit of the AE-2 ESC? No other gearing combination I've tried has worked. I still have the 54/10 combo, but without taking a dremel to the trans housing, I couldn't get enough gear mesh to make it work. Is there maybe an adjust ment I can make with the Castle Link that could help?

Also....probably unrelated....but when my steering gets in a slight bind, it shuts down. I basically have to "reboot" the system to regain steering control. Running a Hitec 5995TG through a CC BEC wired directly to it and the battery, set at 7.0V, and the front wheels have 3.5oz of weight in each. Thoughts?
 
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