Is there a holy grail simple motor upgrade that any noob can put in??
Simple change your GEARS! page 1 and here's this from page 32
Quote:
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset"> Originally Posted by
Jeepfixer1 
All things being equal. Is axials choice of a 20 turn in the wraith the reason everyone burns the stock motor out. Because we are asking of more crawling in a rig that the 20 turn was never meant to do. No matter what brand of motor that is? Thanks again!
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The problem is not the motor, it's the silly short course truck gearing it comes with stock and the fact the motor gets 0 air flow for cooling.
Run 3s, get a BEC(the stock esc bec circuit will not like 3s) run 14/87 gears and almost any motor will last a long time...
You should always be able to leave a finger on the motor, if it's too hot for your finger it's too hot for the solder and epoxy inside the motor... @150F is as hot as I would ever run something I care about... After a trip past 180F or beyond you'll notice a loss in power and heat problems will soon multiply.
The Wraith is the equivalent to a 6000 pound rock crawler with 2000HP... you are trying to drive it in 4th gear :shock: Real rock crawlers run multiple transfer cases and low axle gears (high #'s) to get the gearing low enough, you must do the same.
I recommend 2 RC's one fast, one slow :lmao: compromise just means something has to suck. Also maybe consider the Summit 2 speed trans if you really want the best of both worlds.
Bottom line, run your truck hard for 5min and check the temp... lets say 160F, so we drop 2 teeth on the pinion. Now run it hard again for 10min and check the temps, lets say we're at 150. Now drop 2 more teeth and run it for 20min, you should be in the 140's... if it's back up to 150F drop more teeth. 3 on the spur is basically 1 in the pinion FYI.
The correct gearing is one that does not melt your motor. If it's not fast enough run 4s, motor RPM is the only way to run low gears and still achieve reasonable top speeds.
Just because 20/80 is fine for some dood in Kansas does not mean it's right for you... Different scenario same story, I have a SCTe race truck. All of the guys at the track run 2-3teeth more on the pinion than me. The difference? they race for 10min then there truck sits til the next race. They practice just like they race. I on the other hand I stay on the track til the battery's dead :twisted: 25-30min+ then I strap in a fresh one and repeat... My gearing is such that I can literally run til hell freezes over and not overheat. No fans, no shenanigans, no problems just proper gearing for survival.
Hope this helps you out,
Speed
I doubt it! I'm on my third motor now. Geared down to 18t pin and 87t Spur and still burned out my 27t Axial cheapie motor! "thumbsup"
:roll: So you thought I was making it all up?
ya Harley I've read through all 33 pages of this thread and haven't really found any Definate #s on gearing or heat for what I'm looking for as far as terrain/usage. Alot of "yes that's what I run" but no know numbers. I know this is a chosen set up, so I'm looking for results after running it "without cooking it" I've read a lot of guys burning these things up and don't want to b one of them. thanx for any input
Lies! go back a page post #626 That's not the first time I've posted it either. Every now and then I feel sorry for Harley and stop by this thread, beat my head on the wall a few times.
I have a GM 27t motor, a Speed Star 2 Crawler ESC and the stock gearing in my Wraith. Why run the ESC and motor too hot?
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset">Post #626
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The problem is not the motor, it's the silly short course truck gearing it comes with stock and the fact the motor gets 0 air flow for cooling.
Run 3s, get a BEC(the stock esc bec circuit will not like 3s) run 14/87 gears and almost any motor will last a long time...
You should always be able to leave a finger on the motor, if it's too hot for your finger it's too hot for the solder and epoxy inside the motor... @150F is as hot as I would ever run something I care about... After a trip past 180F or beyond you'll notice a loss in power and heat problems will soon multiply.
The Wraith is the equivalent to a 6000 pound rock crawler with 2000HP... you are trying to drive it in 4th gear :shock: Real rock crawlers run multiple transfer cases and low axle gears (high #'s) to get the gearing low enough, you must do the same.
I recommend 2 RC's one fast, one slow :lmao: compromise just means something has to suck. Also maybe consider the Summit 2 speed trans if you really want the best of both worlds.
Bottom line, run your truck hard for 5min and check the temp... lets say 160F, so we drop 2 teeth on the pinion. Now run it hard again for 10min and check the temps, lets say we're at 150. Now drop 2 more teeth and run it for 20min, you should be in the 140's... if it's back up to 150F drop more teeth. 3 on the spur is basically 1 in the pinion FYI.
The correct gearing is one that does not melt your motor. If it's not fast enough run 4s, motor RPM is the only way to run low gears and still achieve reasonable top speeds.
Just because 20/80 is fine for some dood in Kansas does not mean it's right for you... Different scenario same story, I have a SCTe race truck. All of the guys at the track run 2-3teeth more on the pinion than me. The difference? they race for 10min then there truck sits til the next race. They practice just like they race. I on the other hand I stay on the track til the battery's dead :twisted: 25-30min+ then I strap in a fresh one and repeat... My gearing is such that I can literally run til hell freezes over and not overheat. No fans, no shenanigans, no problems just proper gearing for survival.
GEARING, GEARING, GEARING, GEARING, GEARING!
Any motor will survive if properly geared, that might be at a whopping 3mph in your case but it's physics not magic.
Speed
