Chevy Luv. My baby truck

[toka100]

I bit of an update. Picked up some red super soft leafs at a hobby shop. I am still using the mediums stock leaf with them to help out with wrapping. I did an axle flip also. Just like the real thing.

. I am going to use some 80 shocks in the rear.

locked-up Rc mag lug nuts. They look a bit small but they didn’t have the acorns in stock when I ordered them. Now they have them so I might order them instead.

Now the big part. IFS.

With a bunch of searching and measurements I figured out I could build the ifs with mostly of the self parts. So far the parts I have been using have been from the 1/16 scale slash.

The front diff housing as of right now. Still needs a few changes along with mounting points.

The upper control arm mount is printing right now. I am using the front and rear upper arms from the slash for this.

Once I have everything worked out I will print it with the carbon infused pla I have so it should be fairly strong.




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[toka100]

My first attempt on the arm mounts for the drivers side. This should be the easy side since the diff will stay on the passenger side. Track width is still a bit too much. Ride height is too low even at full droop.

BUT that can easily be fixed. The basic design is there so it is just a matter of making a few changes.


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[toka100]

Few more hours of printing and adjustments ended with this

And the planned design

Anything you happen to notice that could be an issue. Steering is the next issue I have to address tomorrow.




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[JohnnyAnguish]

Another IFS project. Very cool. I can't wait to see how this works out.

 

[Natedog]

Wow! This is coming along well. I LUV the body work that you printed so far.

If you drill new holes in those front mounts and cut off the excess, that could lower the front, down where you want it.

X2 "thumbsup"

Another IFS project. Very cool. I can't wait to see how this works out.

Looking good, Traxxas 1/16 diffs have been very durable ime.
"thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup"

And those tires, sweet scaleness!

 

[toka100]

ride height with about the full body and electronic weight installed

That is what I ended up with. Seems to work well with the stock front shock and mount at the rear location. The Traxxas arm actually curves around the shock like it was meant to be there[emoji16].

I am having an issue with camber gain during the suspension travel. Goes from -3 at full droop to 0 around about static ride height to +3-4 at full compression.

Could that actually be kinda good for a crawler. The upper and lower arms are different lengths but not a huge difference. Maybe 8mm.

Anyways I am really happy with how well this is going together. Been wanting to build this for along time and it is working better then I could have hoped.


Thanks everyone for the kind words. Glad to see others enjoying it as much as I am.

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[Natedog]

Finalizing proper ride height may require moving the control arm mounts down a bit more, ideally the a-arms should be near to parallel with the ground and shocks in mid travel at ride height.

 

[toka100]

Finalizing proper ride height may require moving the control arm mounts down a bit more, ideally the a-arms should be near to parallel with the ground and shocks in mid travel at ride height.

Yah I know. Lol. It really wouldn’t be too hard to lower the mounts down 5mm more. I do also need some more room for which ever motor and tranny I am going to use. Haven’t decided if I should get the r4 with the stock transfer case or just go with the ssd or gcm. Might be a while before ssd releases the new plastic tranny. The r2 isn’t as great as I remember after owning an ssd.


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[toka100]

Made some changes. I did what Natedog suggested and lowered the mounting points on the subframe. The lower arms arm 5mm lower and 5mm more inboard. The uppers are 3mm lower and 5 inboard. I did some reading on unequal arms and it seemed the unparalleled arms would be the best to reduce the amount of camber gain I was getting. The arms are just above horizontal


The front diff has also been changed. I took apart the front Yota axle and printed a offset housing for it.

Just need to cut and grind down the ends for the cv shafts now. I mounted the diff the opposite side so I also had to flip the rear axle so both diffs rotate the right direction. That really help on the mounting on the rear.

I picked up a planetary gear transmission off of eBay. Honestly it was the just the cheapest way to go. I am just debating on how to connect it to the transfer case. To clear the front diff the motor and tranny sits fairly high up.

.
One option is A simple drive shaft will work with a really sharp angles. The other option is to build my own scale transmission with a set down shaft. I found a input shaft from a scx -10 is actually the right length. Would only need to order a 5mm 48p pinion gear to mount on the output of the planetary transmission.


Ohh decisions decisions.

I also found a local guy that is willing to try machining the subframe out of aluminum for me. Once I get the final version figured out. He can’t guarantee that his Cnc machine can do it.


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[toka100]

It has finally made it to being able to move under its own power. Kinda. The front drive shafts are all installed and connected. Also added some aluminum lower arms. Plastic would have been fine but I like the looks of these.

Holmes hobbies trailmaster sport is going to be the power for it.

After soo many years watching his motors I finally bought one. Kinda excited. Yes it is the low end one but Still. I don’t need a big huge puller pro with huge torque. Lol. I have seen them run on other builds and have always been impressed with them.

The next step is ordering parts for the steering.

One of my front shocks has gotten really scratchy when I cycle it. I need to pull it apart and see if a o ring ripped or something. I haven’t even driven this thing yet.


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[dezfan]

It’s just a LUV machine!

 

[toka100]

Finally a real side by side of the two. I really feel like the door of the body is off. After a lot of measurements and converting sizes and scales I decided I have to shorten the cab 4mm. The area behind the door is too long. I’m hoping that will make it look closer to the real thing.


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[58_Willys]

I never would've guessed there was a problem with the dimensions. It looks spot on to me.

I was looking through some old Hilux pics, and came across this pic...
I always liked the step-side look.

 

[toka100]

It’s just a LUV machine! [emoji1360]

Building from the love of the LUV. Lol. [emoji18]


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[toka100]

I never would've guessed there was a problem with the dimensions. It looks spot on to me.



I was looking through some old Hilux pics, and came across this pic...

I always liked the step-side look.

It is mostly minor things. That stepside is cool. It is an older one. Might not even be a factory 4x4. Kinda hard to tell. Still a great looking truck.

These two pictures really shows the difference in the dimensions

To me it just looks like the window and the door are too big. The bed is too short in front of the wheel well also.


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[58_Willys]

After comparing your pics, it seems that the A pillar is a little to far forward. It looks like the leading edge of the door should be lined up with rear edge of where it is now...maybe an 1/8" further back, then the windshield would curve around to the A pillar to the door. That's the only thing I see. "thumbsup"

 

[toka100]

Well I took a month off working on any Rc or printing. Was a little stuck on the steering for this one. After making my mind up that I want to at least run the chassis before it starts getting cold again. I think I figured out a decent steering set up.

I bought a cheap servo. Decent torque but the main part I was looking at was a 4 piece case. The top section and the mounting tabs are separate parts. My initial thought when I order this servo was to try and printing my own custom top section. The more I measured and thought about it I realized I just can’t. Not with this printer. That’s about to change soon though. Looking at a sla printer.

For now though I came up with this.

I still need to come up with a mount for it. The stock mount doesn’t have enough offset that I need. That’s simple enough. I’m hoping I can actually drive this by the end of the day tomorrow. Finally


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[toka100]

Well it runs. Somewhat at least. Still needs so tweaking of the mounts and steering. I ended up breaking a front cv axle so it was only 3wd. I need to order some extras.

https://youtu.be/zNZ4gPjZaBk

The front diff started clicking when jammed up. After looking closely I only had 2 of the 4 screwed holding the diff together. Hopefully it’s ok.

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[durok]

Incredible build...

Serious engineering chops at work!

 

[Natedog]

It’s just a LUV machine!

:lmao:"thumbsup"

After comparing your pics, it seems that the A pillar is a little to far forward. It looks like the leading edge of the door should be lined up with rear edge of where it is now...maybe an 1/8" further back, then the windshield would curve around to the A pillar to the door. That's the only thing I see. "thumbsup"

Agreed.

Made some changes. I did what Natedog suggested and lowered the mounting points on the subframe. The lower arms arm 5mm lower and 5mm more inboard. The uppers are 3mm lower and 5 inboard. I did some reading on unequal arms and it seemed the unparalleled arms would be the best to reduce the amount of camber gain I was getting. The arms are just above horizontal

I picked up a planetary gear transmission off of eBay. Honestly it was the just the cheapest way to go. I am just debating on how to connect it to the transfer case. To clear the front diff the motor and tranny sits fairly high up.

Suspension looks good now, think you'll like it.

I've got a many month long project that needs compact transmission to mate to my scale driveline and RC4WD tcase, what is the reduction on that gear unit?

I never would've guessed there was a problem with the dimensions. It looks spot on to me.

I was looking through some old Hilux pics, and came across this pic...
I always liked the step-side look.

X2, except when I look closely as the OP has done. Always loved the Luv body style! 8)"thumbsup"

BTW, using 3000wt diff fluid in my shocks and works much better and leaks less lol.