mash914
Pebble Pounder
Here is the servo mount I'm thinking of. I think this could give me more options. Any thoughts?
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I guess my "frustration" with the steering is that most folks seem happy with it. I'm certain my standards are no higher than the more experienced people, so I can only assume I've either put it together wrong, or I'm missing something :mrgreen:
Here is the servo mount I'm thinking of. I think this could give me more options. Any thoughts?
I edited the post - does it work now?
I don’t understand why you are having issues with your steering. Neither of my built Enduros have interference with the steering. Quite the opposite, I get incredible steering angles and my servo horn clears the panhard with room to spare.
I edited the post - does it work now?
That's why I'm surprised. Most folks consider it a pro. I will say turning right it's fantastic.
Does your servo horn go behind the panhard mount, or do you get full left steering before it contacts it?
BTW, I'm using the stock horn for right now.
I used a shim to lower the panhard on the frame side so my horn would clear.
In all fairness I am comparing this to a build using a Brazin chassis with SOA and a Corrupts Carbon using a mount like pictured above.
But even my TRX4s don't have the same issues but they don't offer that great of a turning radius either.
Many say just set the endpoints so you don't have a problem but I want to fix those problems so I can have max steering.
That's kind of where I am. I really want the turn to the left to be as good as the right. I'm really considering that chassis for another build - how do you like it?
Here is a quick video I made to try to capture what's going on.
https://i.imgur.com/tIfVEoP.mp4
I have the Land Shark Corrupt Carbon and the Brazin SCX10 team and I like the Corrupt much better.
The Brazin chassis is flimsy and can it is also designed so you really need to do a four link with a SOA, which work great but is ugly.
The Corrupt Carbon is also a lower profile and the top of the Corrupt Carbon Chassis sits lower even it you have the belly at the same height. This allows you to have the same clearance but you can sit the body lower for lower center of gravity. The mid low hanging section on the Corrupt Carbon is shorter so less high center issues.
But neither have removeable shock towers which is required for a class 1 (SORRCA) build.
I do like the Enduro chassis and transmission, I am using that trans on the Corrupts Carbon build. The Enduro Chassis is working really well for me with the ar44s. My only issue is the steering but I am the guy that sits with a Dremel and if I can remove something to make it work better I will. I have not had to do that with an AR44 plastics one piece but I have with an AR44 aluminum front axle.
I want the turning so tight that I can hang on a ledge turn my tires and have the sidewall make contact.
Sorry if I missed this but have you adjusted the steering endpoints?
Another factor is the angle of the horn itself, the closer the drag link is to parallel with the axle the less steering its able to do. I've had a number of rigs where the servo is off center to on side when the wheels are straight, this always result in one side requiring more throw than the other and even then it has less leverage due to it getting close to straightening out (the servo horn angle). Adjusting the drag link length so the horn is centered when the wheels are centered will alleviate this but has the potential to add some bumpsteer. But I'd say its worth risking a tiny bit of bumpsteer for better steering.
One thing I'll do to center the servo horn (so the wheels are centered too) is to trim the rod ends or use shorter rod ends.
EDIT: this isnt really related but I'd recommend taking out the rubber servo dampeners that are used to mount it. I can see your servo moving around a bit as you steer. These are meant to extend the life of a servo by isolating it from vibrations but with crawlers being so slow I dont think is an issue worth worrying about. I never use them and the majority of us crawler guys dont either.
Sorry if I missed this but have you adjusted the steering endpoints?
Another factor is the angle of the horn itself, the closer the drag link is to parallel with the axle the less steering its able to do. I've had a number of rigs where the servo is off center to on side when the wheels are straight, this always results in one side requiring more throw than the other and even then it has less leverage due to it getting close to straightening out (the servo horn angle). Adjusting the drag link length so the horn is centered when the wheels are centered will alleviate this but has the potential to add some bumpsteer. But I'd say its worth risking a tiny bit of bumpsteer for better steering.
One thing I'll do to center the servo horn (so the wheels are centered too) is to trim the drag link rod ends or use shorter rod ends.
EDIT: this isnt really related but I'd recommend taking out the rubber servo dampeners that are used to mount it. I can see your servo moving around a bit as you steer. These are meant to extend the life of a servo by isolating it from vibrations but with crawlers being so slow I dont think is an issue worth worrying about. I never use them and the majority of us crawler guys dont either.
EDIT 2: I also see you have the drag link on the wheel side mounted on top of the metal bracket when it should be mounted from below. see page 10 gate 2 https://img2.associatedelectrics.co...ders_Kit/manual_Enduro-Builders-Kit-40102.pdf
I have two suggestions, mount the drag link to the underside of the steering arm where it’s supposed to be, or remove the spacer at the horn side at least. Flattening the drag link angle essentially lengthens it, which would definitely impact steering angle to the left.
Also make sure the panhard mount isn’t causing interference sooner than the stock mount would.
And, make the sure the drag link is mounted to the long side of the steering arm. There is a long snd short side of the rh steering arm.
The new shock tower actually gives a bit more room, thanks for the suggestion though.
I think I have it the right way, but I’ll double check those arms. The way I have them now the two extensions on the back for the tie rod match - I assume that’s right, but I’ll definitely look again. Thanks
This has been a great conversation. All to often when you get in a brand specific forum people take things too personal about their chosen RC and try to find fault with the person having the issue instead of helping them work though it.