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bilinvic's DMG IFS B1B Bomber Build

.....and finally, some video:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FVDdlsmnA84" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Before purchasing my Bomber, I made my wife watch more vids like this than she cared for... she wanted to die... I still love watching these rigs work. The IFS looks great... nice video.

I am trying to get some SSD wheels coming and initially I will just swap the stock tires over. I noticed that you have stock Baja's, the K35 Baja's and the Proline Flat Iron's. I'm sure you have others as well. I am leaning heavily towards slow technical crawling. I have a lot of Granite and Limestone near me and I travel frequently for work to Southern Utah which is amazing sandstone for days. Which of your tires do you prefer for crawling?

I also noticed that your Flat Irons don't look as soft (air'd down) as the stock Baja's and foams. Thoughts?
 
I hear ya...I enjoy watching close-up views of the tires and suspension working.

I've read the stock Axial KR2 tires are difficult to mount on beadlocks because the beads are made for glue-on rims. The Axial R35 versions are apparently made with regular beads and no internal stiffening ribs. I've never run the stock KR2 tires that come with the Bomber, so I cannot comment on their performance. Although I do have the P-L KR2 tires, I still haven't tried them out yet, I suspect they will be great on the dry rocks. You are correct, after reviewing my video, the Flat Iron XL tires need softer foams. I'm pretty sure they are CI DD 6.0, I'll order some CI DD 5.5 foams and see how they feel because I really like these tires. I also love the Pit Bull XOR tires, but they are very wide and shorter. I may consider a pair of VooDoo KLR 2.2 tires if they ever get released!
 
It appears VP Yeti knuckles and Axial Universals don;t play well together! Lot's of metal shavings.:x

WoW !
i have ran axial uni's in my yeti with Vp hubs they did rub a little
& i did have to clearance the insides some but not that much !
watch the hub/bearing slop i normally have to shim all hubs up one or two shims !

now we know "why" i am running - yes - STRC hubs & C's,
they will take just about any drive shaft with out doing anything to them.

we must watch for how much front end travel your getting !
now that the shock tower is getting taller & were putting longer shocks on this front end - trying to get the most travel & the tallest ground clearance,
doing so puts everything at its most extreme drive angels at both ends of the drive line.

if your using a drive line with a dog bones on one end - watch when you cycle the suspension & make sure the suspension stops when the drive shaft hits the drive cup & go's no further !
if it dose - your going to brake that drive cup in half when the rig bottoms out hard !

we can only run the amount of travel in the front end as that drive cup will let us ! - pireod - thats the limiting factor in the yeti front end !

no matter how tall of shocks or tower we use - it comes down to the drive system bottoming out on the drive cups or cvd's binding at there limits !

 
Well said Jerry...you're advice is definitely appreciated. Where are you shimming the front axles, behind the 12mm hub?
 
Some forward lighting mounted up now; RC4WD Baja Designs Squadron LED pods. I used the existing interior mounting locations on the dash so they are safe and out of harm's way.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/36634797836/in/album-72157685236877134/" title="B1B Bomber_40"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4375/36634797836_e45f0abbe9_o.jpg" width="1100" height="699" alt="B1B Bomber_40"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/35846196984/in/album-72157685236877134/" title="B1B Bomber_42"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/35846196984_e24dfe4a78_o.jpg" width="1100" height="815" alt="B1B Bomber_42"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

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Well said Jerry...you're advice is definitely appreciated. Where are you shimming the front axles, behind the 12mm hub?
yes - back side of the hub !
with these from Ebay !!
IMG_0775_zpslbx07nyq.jpg
 
Nice vid Bil. I like the hood pin decals too, nice touch. I'm really starting to love my Flat Iron XLs too. I don't even have them broken in yet and they just stick so well and I'm running Deuces Wilds, lol. I can sometimes hear them clawing with each tread if they're searching for traction on a climb, it's a cool sound.
 
Bil, you and screamer are making it very hard to wait patiently on B1B #9! I happen to have a set of flat iron xl's as well that have just been collecting dust. I'm interested to see how well they perform for me. Keep the info, pics and vids coming. #DMGB1BBomberBrigade 8)
 
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Here's the spec list...there will be a few changes though. I have to order a pair of Vanquish .450 SLW hubs for the front, limiting straps and test with various spring rates for the front shocks.

Vehicle Build Specs: DMG IFS B1B Bomber

DMG Independent Front Suspension Conversion Kit:
Main Aluminum Lower Chassis Plate
Front Steel Main Chassis Brace
Servo Mount
Steering Rack/Post plate
Alum Chassis Tube Brace
DMG Front Shock Tower
Transmission "Wraith" Adapter Plate
Steel Nose Brace (Not Used)
Alum Hood & Hinges (Not Used)

Front Axle:
Axial Yeti Differential Case
Axial EXO Machined Aluminum Front Toe Block; F2
Axial EXO Toe Block Insert Set
Gears: Axial HD Bevel 38T/13T
Locker: Axial Yeti Front Differential Locker
Axle Shafts: Axial Yeti Universals
Vanquish Yeti CNC Machined Front Knuckles Anodized Blue
Vanquish Yeti Front Caster Blocks Anodized Blue
Axial Yeti King Pins
Axial 12mm Aluminum Hexes w/ Axial Pins
RPM Yeti A-Arms
Turnbuckles: Axial Steel w/ RPM Revo (Blue) Link Ends
Skid: Vanquish Yeti Front Skid Plate Anodized Black
Vanquish Yeti Double Sheer Steering Rack Kit
Vanquish Yeti Bell Crank Anodized Black
Vanquish Yeti Steering Rack Anodized Black
Yeti Upper Chassis Brace (Modified)

Rear Axle:
Housing: SSD Centered Diamond Axle; Black
Diff Cover: SSD Diamond Axle; Black
Bearing Caps: n/a (3rd Member)
Lockouts: SSD; Black
Gears: Axial HD Bevel 43T/13T
Axle Shafts: SSD Centered
Locker: Grib Fab SS
Axle Skid: SSD Diamond Axle Skid
Link / Shock Mount: Axial Bomber Triple Mounts

Transmission:
Case: Axial Wraith
Motor Mount: Axial
Upper Internal Gear: Axial
Robinson Racing Hardened Steel Idler Gear
Robinson Racing One Piece Steel Bottom Gear
Pinion Gear - Robinson Racing 11T 32P
Spur Gear: Axial 56T 32P; Dual Sided Slipper
Top Shaft: Axial
Front Driveshaft: Axial Yeti Heavy Duty Differential Input Shaft
Axial Center Driveline Universal Shaft (103mm)
Axial WB8-HD Driveshaft Coupler Set
Rear Driveshaft: MIP Yeti

Chassis / Suspension:
Frame: Axial RR10 Bomber
Skid Plate: Axial RR10 Bomber
Front Bumper: Axial Yeti w/ Custom Cut Foam Impact Dampener
Rear Bumper: DMG Steel Tube Bumper
Rear Shock Mount Brace: DMG Radiator Support Bracket
Servo Mount: DMG B1B Conversion
Front Shocks: Axial Yeti Icon Front Shocks
Rear Shocks: Proline Powerstroke Short Course; Rear
Rear Shocks: Axial Yeti Icon Rear Shocks; Springless
Upper Rear Links: Vanquish Titanium; RPM Revo (Blue) & Jato Link Ends
Lower Rear Links - Blue Monkey RC; Yeti Length; RPM Revo (Blue) Link Ends
Link Ends: Traxxas Revo & Jato, RPM (Blue)
Battery Mount: Axial; Stock RR10 Bomber
Sway Bar: Vanquish Anti Rock; Black w/ Custom Link Ends (Traxxas)

Electronics:
Motor: Tekin PRO4 4000kv
ESC: Castle Creations Mamba Max Pro
Sensor Cable: Novak
Servo: Xpert RC WR-7701-HV
Servo Horn: Axial Aluminum Servo Horn 25T (Hard Anodized)
Steering Linkage: Axial 40mm Post w/Team KNK 3mm Aluminum Spacer; Traxxas Mini Link Ends
Lighting: RC4WD Baja Designs Squadron Set (Dash Mounted)
Lighting: Axial Simple LED Controller w/ 2 x 2 Red LED Strings
Light Housing: Axial EXO Rear Light Housing
RC Lights RX Pass-Thru x2
BEC: Castle Creations; 10-Amp
Receiver: Spektrum
Radio: Spektrum DX4S
Battery: Various 3S
Wiring Connectors: Traxxas
Axial Wraith RTR Electronics Box

Rolling Stock:
Wheels: SSD 2.2 Rock Racer Beadlock Wheels
Hubs / Offset: Vanquish .600 Front, Vanquish .850 Rear
Wheel Nuts: Locked Up RC 4-40 Acorn Nut Wheel Studs
Tires: Proline BFGoodrich® KR2 2.2" G8 Rock Terrain Truck Tires
Tire Foams: Crawler Innovations Double Deuce 6.0; Soft Outers
Exile RC Brass SLW Hub Weights (Front)

Body / Interior:
Body: Axial Bomber Fabrications Panels
Paint / Graphics: Axial; Stock Bomber Fabrications, DMG B1B Decals
Interior: Axial RR10 Bomber Painted Gloss Black (Internal) w/ Flat Clear (Exterior)
Figures: Axial Skeleton Heads; Custom Painted
Exterior Details: Axial EXO Radiator Set
Axial Fuel Cell; Custom Painted

General:
Bearings: Axial; Fast Eddy
Hardware: Stainless Steel (RC Srewz / Team KNK)
Grease: Castrol Pyroplex Blue, Lucas Red ‘n Tacky
Waterproofing - MG Chemicals Urethane Conformal Coating
 
I just finished 1.25 hour test session......all I can say is HOLY F**K, this machine is amazing (Excuse my French!!!).

Just wanted to let you know, but when you posted this, it's what changed my mind going IFS on my bomber too.:lmao:"thumbsup"

Any updates?
 
I'm glad to part of this B1B virus 84yoda!!!

I was hoping to get out this last weekend for a big shakedown run, but unfortunately that plan didn't materialize.

I have put the SSD Rock Racer wheels and P-L BFG KR2 tires on the B1B for now to test them out. The other reason I want to use these wheels is because they utilize an SLW hub and I have Exile RC brass SLW hub weights that I wanted to use. Although the balance was almost perfect on the test day, I felt I needed just a touch more front end weight. I have spare RC Bros knuckle weight kits but they unfortunately won't work on Yeti knuckles and the next best thing is SLW hub weights. Right now I'm using Vanquish .600 hubs up front and have .450 SLW hubs on order from RPP...the front needs to be narrowed up a bit to mach the rear track width.

I also have another complete set of SSD Rock Racer wheels on order because they look so damn good...I need them on my other Bomber. The KR2 tires will go back to the other Bomber too, I have Crawler Innovations Double Deuce 5.5” Comp Cut Inner / Soft Outer foams coming in this same order from RPP for the P-L Flat Iron XL tires, the 6.0 DD foams that are in them now make the tires a little to firm for my liking.

Axial 14x54mm 3.85 lbs/in Medium Green springs are on their way too, I want to soften up the front shocks and see how they perform over a stiffer spring that's on them now (4.33 lbs/in - Yellow).

As mentioned above, I have some KBess Mfg limiting straps (blue) ordered that will hopefully will work out. I'm more concerned about the front because I don't want the front A-Arms maxxing out on full droop.

That's about it for now.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/35846196884/in/album-72157685236877134/" title="B1B Bomber_43"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4409/35846196884_442aec805c_o.jpg" width="1100" height="740" alt="B1B Bomber_43"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

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Today is the day my B1B Bomber gets it's shakedown run...should be a about a 5 hour crawl/bounce if nothing let's me down!

I didn't receive my parts that I was expecting on Friday, so I will be running with my newest favourite tire, the Axial BFG Krawlers with Gearhead RC wheels.
 
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Gotta wear my DMG shirt when I roll with the B1B Bomber!!!

Now you guys can place a face with the name too.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/35872161683/in/album-72157685236877134/" title="B1B Bomber_45"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4407/35872161683_77b5c18b83_o.jpg" width="1100" height="832" alt="B1B Bomber_45"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
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I'd like to make a shirt that says "I'm e-friends with bilinvic" to wear when I run my car. The back could say something like "it's a small crawler thing... you wouldn't understand".

Anyways, always nice to connect a human face to people.
 
It turned out to be a 6 hour crawl session today. Let me start off with saying that I know I have some pretty awesome rigs in my collection that are dialed in for maximum crawling performance....but with that being said, the DMG B1B Bomber is definitely the best crawler I have in my arsenal of machines after today's mind-blowing performance.

I would like to think that I have some credibility to my name and know what I'm talking about....I don't want to throw around the "best crawler" expression around lightly, but this machine is out-of-this-world fantastic at crawling and bouncing, not to mention an incredible amount of fun.

I feel it's absolutely perfect and dialed in 100%, but with that being said, I'm always searching for more and want to get 105% performance and will continue tuning to get that extra bit more.

My buddy got lots of video today, hopefully that will be edited and published soon. In the meantime, I have some photos.

The only issue I experienced today was that I lost the screw for the steering linkage at the steering rack. I thought I killed the servo at first. A quick field fix and I was good to go. The B1B Bomber dished out some serious aggressiveness today and never once failed. Although, I am hearing a bit of gear crunching under heavy acceleration, I'm hoping it's just the spur because everything else is metal (the grinding sounds like plastic). I will rip everything apart and inspect all components to see if there's any unforeseen weaknesses.

I cannot wait to get this rig back out on the mountains.

Mr. DMG...take a bow good Sir, your B1B Bomber kit is worth every penny it cost me and is by far one of my favourite builds; thank you.

And by the way, these Axial R35 BFG Krawler tires killed it today....I LOVE them.

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