tooth-less
Newbie
question ?
is this the correct skid for the AX10 ?
AX80118
is this the correct skid for the AX10 ?
AX80118
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler
- Thread starter TakeOffYouHoser
- Start date
No that is the skid for the AX10 deadbolt. I think that frame you are looking at is designed for the AX10 Scorpion. The Scorpion is the original version (that the HSP/E10 is a copy of) that has ax10/scx10 axles while the new ax10 has Wraith axles. The one you need should look very similar in size and shape to the one you have.
Interestingly this listing shows the same chassis with E10 gear. It looks like it comes with a skid plate and he has slotted it to suit the E10/HSP trans.
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/172232884054
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/172232884054
tooth-less
Newbie
oh nice "thumbsup" Thanks again Joe
TerryInLeesburg
Newbie
Hey all;
Well I got my Father's Day gift....everest 10!
I have already changed out the diffs to the steel ones, upgraded to a 35t motor, added chassis braces and .............. broke the C Hub carriers.
Have new Al ones on order - should be here Thursday.
Question:
I have MASSIVE body roll (torque roll) on this thing. I have removed the 2 shock spacers on the right side, but left the ones on the left - only very minor help.
Does anyone have suggestions on how to mitigate the roll? It is very nasty (especially in grass) where it will lift the front wheel completely off the ground.
Solutions??
Other than that, it is a great truck. Going to probably upgrade the tires later, as they don't seem very grippy...
Thoughts?
Well I got my Father's Day gift....everest 10!
I have already changed out the diffs to the steel ones, upgraded to a 35t motor, added chassis braces and .............. broke the C Hub carriers.
Have new Al ones on order - should be here Thursday.
Question:
I have MASSIVE body roll (torque roll) on this thing. I have removed the 2 shock spacers on the right side, but left the ones on the left - only very minor help.
Does anyone have suggestions on how to mitigate the roll? It is very nasty (especially in grass) where it will lift the front wheel completely off the ground.
Solutions??
Other than that, it is a great truck. Going to probably upgrade the tires later, as they don't seem very grippy...
Thoughts?
Congrats! I stiffened the rear shocks on mine and that helped. The best thing to do is to mirror the engine/tranny. Once I did that, I was golden!
Take care,
Take care,
TerryInLeesburg
Newbie
What is the thought behind the mirroring?
Would it not just cause body roll in the other direction?
I am a noob to this, so if you could please explain, I would really appreciate it!
Thanks
Terry
Would it not just cause body roll in the other direction?
I am a noob to this, so if you could please explain, I would really appreciate it!
Thanks
Terry
Hi,
Good questions. I had them also.
Basically, when you mirror the motor/tranny, the torque is applied from the opposite side. It has to overcome the motor/tranny as well.
For example: If you take a 1 pound weight on the end of a string and rotate it clockwise with your right hand, you only have your right arm to hold it in place. If you do the same thing with your left arm, you have your entire body to help.
I am not very good in explaining things, so anyone else feel free to chime in!
Good questions. I had them also.
Basically, when you mirror the motor/tranny, the torque is applied from the opposite side. It has to overcome the motor/tranny as well. For example: If you take a 1 pound weight on the end of a string and rotate it clockwise with your right hand, you only have your right arm to hold it in place. If you do the same thing with your left arm, you have your entire body to help.
I am not very good in explaining things, so anyone else feel free to chime in!
TerryInLeesburg
Newbie
THANKS!!
OK, I see where you are going with this, the analogy helped a lot!
So, how to do it? Can I just reverse the skidplate, then swap motor wires?
Or...what am I missing?
OK, I see where you are going with this, the analogy helped a lot!
So, how to do it? Can I just reverse the skidplate, then swap motor wires?
Or...what am I missing?
I think that should do it for you. I converted mine to a scaler, so my setup is a little different, but that should work. I would reverse the plate like you said and run it. It should go backwards instead of forwards. If so, reverse the motor wires and you are off!
TerryInLeesburg
Newbie
OK, that was a lot easier than I expected!
I will give it a try, and let you know how it works.
Probably not tonight, as I have to go change an exhaust system in my car so it will pass state inspection, but as soon as I can.
Thanks for the help!
I will give it a try, and let you know how it works.
Probably not tonight, as I have to go change an exhaust system in my car so it will pass state inspection, but as soon as I can.
Thanks for the help!
two things to consider ...
the cog will be moved back a bit when the motor/tranny is spun 180 degrees
the motors without adjustable endbells will be spinning against the built in advance timing of the brushes
and cause them to burn up/wear faster
you could add a bunch of weight to the chassis side opposite the motor to compensate for the rotation, but that has
its own drawbacks
the rotation of the motor rotor makes the motor housing want to rotate.
stock, the motor housing is only trying to flip the tranny side over
with the tranny mirrored, the rotor spins the other way and is now trying to flip the motor/rotor over so it has more
weight to lift and less noticeable torque twist.
if the pumpkins were off center, that would also affect what would be the better way to compensate for the twist.
hope this helps a bit
the cog will be moved back a bit when the motor/tranny is spun 180 degrees
the motors without adjustable endbells will be spinning against the built in advance timing of the brushes
and cause them to burn up/wear faster
you could add a bunch of weight to the chassis side opposite the motor to compensate for the rotation, but that has
its own drawbacks
the rotation of the motor rotor makes the motor housing want to rotate.
stock, the motor housing is only trying to flip the tranny side over
with the tranny mirrored, the rotor spins the other way and is now trying to flip the motor/rotor over so it has more
weight to lift and less noticeable torque twist.
if the pumpkins were off center, that would also affect what would be the better way to compensate for the twist.
hope this helps a bit
Last edited:
TerryInLeesburg
Newbie
Cabron;
I do not think I have one with adjustable timing (actually, I did not think you could change the timing of a brushed motor).
I have this motor: RC4WD 540 Crawler Brushed Motor 35T (Z-E0005)
How much quicker will the motor burn up? Should I re-do the water break in, in reverse?
Thanks!
I do not think I have one with adjustable timing (actually, I did not think you could change the timing of a brushed motor).
I have this motor: RC4WD 540 Crawler Brushed Motor 35T (Z-E0005)
How much quicker will the motor burn up? Should I re-do the water break in, in reverse?
Thanks!
the motors with the exposed brush housings can be timed by loosening up the 2 screws on the end
and rotating the endbell.
there is a write up in the electronics section, a description by holmes hobbies.
the rc4wd motor cannot be adjusted, some motors are made for reverse rotation (traxxas and redcat for example)
but cannot be adjusted.
the rc4wd motors and the other cheaper ones only cost around 10.00 so no biggie, drive till it drops.
the rebuildable ones cost 35.00 on up and can be adjusted and even rebuilt, also can be disassembled
to clean and oil if you get them wet or muddy.
mirror the tranny (mostly because it is fun to do and it is probably the better way)
when the motor finally wears out, get a better one. as the brushes wear you will
notice a bigger and bigger loss of power. it will not happen fast.
the water break in will not work for this, it is the spark that develops that burns and wears the brushes
plus you are fighting the timing just a bit. look at the motor descriptions in the electronic section.
enjoy
steve
and rotating the endbell.
there is a write up in the electronics section, a description by holmes hobbies.
the rc4wd motor cannot be adjusted, some motors are made for reverse rotation (traxxas and redcat for example)
but cannot be adjusted.
the rc4wd motors and the other cheaper ones only cost around 10.00 so no biggie, drive till it drops.
the rebuildable ones cost 35.00 on up and can be adjusted and even rebuilt, also can be disassembled
to clean and oil if you get them wet or muddy.
mirror the tranny (mostly because it is fun to do and it is probably the better way)
when the motor finally wears out, get a better one. as the brushes wear you will
notice a bigger and bigger loss of power. it will not happen fast.
the water break in will not work for this, it is the spark that develops that burns and wears the brushes
plus you are fighting the timing just a bit. look at the motor descriptions in the electronic section.
enjoy
steve
TerryInLeesburg
Newbie
Sounds like good advice. Thanks.
Once I have enough time on it to burn the motor, I will probably be looking to go brushless anyway
Once I have enough time on it to burn the motor, I will probably be looking to go brushless anyway
brushless are not too good if you are going slow. the crawler tends to jerk a bit on starting
also known as cogging. using a sensored brushless motor will help with this.
if you are go be bashing or speeding around it would be fine.
someone else might add to this.
also known as cogging. using a sensored brushless motor will help with this.
if you are go be bashing or speeding around it would be fine.
someone else might add to this.
Hydrocarbon92
Rock Crawler
Sounds like good advice. Thanks.
Once I have enough time on it to burn the motor, I will probably be looking to go brushless anyway
I'd recommend just going 3S instead. I tossed a 3A ubec on mine and use a 3300mah Turnigy. It's faster than the 2S/27T crawler in the video in post #721. With Proline G8 compound I can pull wheelies on carpet (from a stop). BTW the ubec is a good idea since the WP-1080 bec is only 2A at 5 volts. With 2 servos & 3S it gets rather hot w/o the ubec.
Here's mine so far. This vid shows the Arduino-based steering controller I just finished. It lets me select 2WS/4WS/Crabwalk like the RS10 using my 3rd channel. I'm using the FS-GT3C, which binds right to the original receiver. I used the FS receiver after I pulled it apart & water-proofed it (tested in 18" of water :lmao
.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmHEIJZGIFA
Here's a vid of it in action with a few other friends' trucks (of all makes/models). There's nothing that the other trucks can do that this can't, including a $1500 sponsored truck (Spider axles, holmes electronics, etc).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLvptBENoKU
Beelzebub
Newbie
OK, I just read through all of this, and hope I can get a few questions answered.
I just recently got back into this hobby after a 20 year hiatus, and the concept is the same, but boy has the game changed! So many different ways to rc now!
Anyways, to stick with the Everest 10, I wanted to get confirmation that the newest model comes Esc lipo ready? Is that true? And wondering if anyone here knows about the China made HG Scaled Crawler, the HG P401? There's tons of chassis parts online for these, even steel, and was wondering if anyone has used them for molding this rig into a scaled crawler?
Love this write up, original poster. And, I think I'm gonna like this Crawler no matter what. I've been looking at getting an Axial, but the commitment is way too much for someone like me who loves RCs, but doesn't know about rock crawling yet. Thanks again!
I just recently got back into this hobby after a 20 year hiatus, and the concept is the same, but boy has the game changed! So many different ways to rc now!
Anyways, to stick with the Everest 10, I wanted to get confirmation that the newest model comes Esc lipo ready? Is that true? And wondering if anyone here knows about the China made HG Scaled Crawler, the HG P401? There's tons of chassis parts online for these, even steel, and was wondering if anyone has used them for molding this rig into a scaled crawler?
Love this write up, original poster. And, I think I'm gonna like this Crawler no matter what. I've been looking at getting an Axial, but the commitment is way too much for someone like me who loves RCs, but doesn't know about rock crawling yet. Thanks again!
Hydrocarbon92
Rock Crawler
Yes, I bought mine in April and it came with a WP-1040, I run 3S. It has a jumper that switches between LiPo and NiMH, but I've never actually hit lipo-cut with it. Mine will run for a few hours on a 3300mah 3S. I'd recommend a ubec or a 25mm esc fan, especially if you go with 4WS.
