A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler

[Bronco RC Crawler]

Which is better, x trail chassis or scx10?

I'd like to know what others think as well. I'm thinking of buying an scx10 chassis and transfer all the drive train and electronics from the e10. I have some aluminum 100mm shocks and 1.9 treps to go on also. Plus a proline bronco body.

 

[Jeepiac]

Myself, I prefer the X-Trail. Cheap, easy to work with and solid.

 

[honchojoe]

Much more support available for the scx10 chassis. Direct bolt on parts etc.

 

[StomperCrawler]

So I was thinking cheap again (surprise I know), and wondering if the chassis could be cut on the white lines to keep the bottom and make 4 shock towers, and add a long piece of aluminum or delrin cutting board (red) to make your own scale chassis? Cross members would be needed (delrin/aluminum) for strengthening of course.

 

[cabron]

what an open ended question, haha.

yes it can be done, but to what end?
will it be the best solution? of course not but that does not make a difference.
if you are making parts out of delrin and aluminum, what benefit from keeping part of the original chassis?

doing it for the sake of doing it is a good enough reason, but some children can only be loved by their mothers.

why do you think I don't show my builds? I make my own chassis, links, shock mounts (when I use shocks),
servo mounts, etc. ugly but they work quite well.
compared with pamyers' and jeepiac's rigs, mine are wall flowers or more like wall stains.

 

[honchojoe]

Chassis rails are only about $30. Why go to all that effort. Buy the rails then make the stock skid fit and make your own braces. Or buy the ax10 to scx10 conversion kit for about $60-$70.

 

[jstclair]

So far this thing impresses me every time I take it out in the rocks. Flex is insane (I removed the front shock spacers and left the rears in), tires work pretty darn well.
I wish I could get the battery lower and the CG as well, but it isn't bad. The more you run it the better the shocks work.

So far I changed out the motor to a 27T to get more wheel speed, which worked perfect.
Weighted the wheels and star cut the foams. Also trimmed the stops to get more steering angle, but you will hit the springs at full lock.

 

[honchojoe]

So far this thing impresses me every time I take it out in the rocks. Flex is insane (I removed the front shock spacers and left the rears in), tires work pretty darn well.
I wish I could get the battery lower and the CG as well, but it isn't bad. The more you run it the better the shocks work.

So far I changed out the motor to a 27T to get more wheel speed, which worked perfect.
Weighted the wheels and star cut the foams. Also trimmed the stops to get more steering angle, but you will hit the springs at full lock.

Set your end point adjustment so it doesn't hit anything or you will end up killing your servo.

 

[jstclair]

Set your end point adjustment so it doesn't hit anything or you will end up killing your servo.

done. I run spacers on Pangolin to keep the tires out of the shocks.

 

[Cweldy]

I put a 17t motor in. Way to fast for crawling with very little low speed control. Stepped up to a 3s lipo and fried the ESC and motor. ESC was stuck on full throttle which caused the truck to bounce off a wall and break a rear axle. Now I have lockouts and stainless axles in back and cvds up front. And a dynamite ESC.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

 

[Cweldy]

This was my solution to in boarding the lower links. Used threaded rod. I had to buy 100 nuts so I just use them to space everything out. There is very little torque twist now and it crawls much better.

 

[Bronco RC Crawler]

I went ahead with the scx10 chassis and put all the redcat drive train and electronics in it. With exception of the motor, I went with an axial 27t, just couldn't put that slow thing back in. I had to slot the scx10 skid quite a bit to fit the transmission. But it bolted up tight so I think it will be fine. I used the redcat aluminum links and the wb came out to be 12.5". For the upper links I just turned the rodends so the curved link was inline with the frame. Also added some washers to adjust the pinion angle. For the lower links I just had to swap the pivot balls on one end if each link because they had really thick flanges that were to wide. I swapped them with axial plastic pivot balls. I then added 100mm aluminum shocks from ebay. I am putting a Proline Bronco body on it, just need to paint and it will be done. Over all it was a really simple build, and I think my daughter will enjoy it more as She wanted one like my Deadbolt

 

[honchojoe]

I would swap those rear lower links around. Use the bend in them to function as high clearance links. This is how I did mine.

 

[cabron]

This was my solution to in boarding the lower links. Used threaded rod. I had to buy 100 nuts so I just use them to space everything out. There is very little torque twist now and it crawls much better.

would it have been easier to get an ax10 skidplate that has the inboard cutouts
built into it? like this for example
New Axial Tube Frame Skid Plate Battery Tray Wraith AX80079 | eBay

 

[Bronco RC Crawler]

I would swap those rear lower links around. Use the bend in them to function as high clearance links. This is how I did mine.

That's a great idea, don't know why I didn't try that yet. I played with the links for a long time trying different setups too.

 

[Cweldy]

would it have been easier to get an ax10 skidplate that has the inboard cutouts
built into it? like this for example
New Axial Tube Frame Skid Plate Battery Tray Wraith AX80079 | eBay

Probably. This wasn't that much work though. Hardest part was finding the threaded rod locally.

 

[mikel81]

Just finally finished reading this whole thread, whew.:shock: Picked up an Everest 10 and Maxstone 10 for my sons for their bdays. I have all the recommended mods on the way, lockers, faster motor, etc. They are finally enjoying the modding part of RCs with these things. And we are having way more fun with these on hikes than our go fast cars. Really impressed with the quality for the price. I am sitting here making metal links for my new scx10 while the cheaper E10 and M10 came upgraded...

Interesting. I wonder if they got a return with a smoked esc and just swapped it out with the 1040 before reselling it.

Just picked this up new on amazon and came with a wp-1040. Here is a pic of it.

 

[honchojoe]

Nice. I wonder how small that esc would be if I removed the heatsink and casing. Need a esc that will run 3s and be very small. I've not considered the wp1040 before.

 

[MrRotaryPhone]

Great thread. Used this a few times for reference for my Everest. Here is what I have so far.

 

[TerryInLeesburg]

Good morning all;

Well, this is my first post, so wanted to say Hi.
I just got (or, actually WILL be getting an Everest 10 for Father's Day).
I have read all 39 pages - great info!

Already ordered some parts Can't leave it stock

I ordered:

HobbyPark Metal differential gears
100mm shocks
Chassis stiffeners
RC4WD 540 Crawler Brushed Motor 35T
Metal Servo Horn

Anything else stand out as a "must do"?

I am planning on this being a first "real" RC crawler for me and my son (age 6), so it needs to be as bulletproof as possible.

Thanks for the help!

Terry