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A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler

Actually I just realised I read your link wrong. I saw xtra speed scx10 ans assumed you where talking about transmission internals. So in the case of axle housings I put e10/hsp gears in stock plastic scx10 housings and the crown gear is slightly bigger and rubbed a little on the housing. I left it cus it will wear in. In the case of an alloy housing they might rub and lock up. Unless you dremil/machine the crown doen a little or dremil a slight groove where the crown gear rubs.

Edit: you would also need to fit scx10 knuckles and c hubs as the angles are different on the e10/hsp ones. Also the gearing sizes are different inside the housing so you would need to buy the small bearings in scx10 size. The 2 large ones are the same.
 
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I just finished reading this entire thread. Took me several weeks, but got it done. This thread is actually what convinced me to try the E10.

I bought a E10 for my 7 year old daughter. She loves it especially with the 27T motor and 15t pinion. We just took it out last night. It performed just as well as the wife's stock Deadbolt (well, stock except Super Swampers). And, with Axial 2.2 RipSaws, it does much better in deeper water as the wheels don't try to float and tip the truck over.

TerryInLeesburg, I don't want to insult your intelligence, but did you check the differentials? If the diffs are stripped (which is the common weak point in the E10 drive train), you could hold the transmission from rotating and you will be able to spin the wheels. When you hold the spur gear and rotate the wheels, does the clanking come from the diffs or the trans? Also, do the drive shafts rotate while holding the spur gear still? That should help you narrow it down.
 
Hi all. I just got a Everest 10 for my daughter and I to play with. She's loving it.

I've read through most of this thread and I have a few questions.

What is torque roll?

What upgrades do I need to focus on first? I've ordered iron crosses and some wheel weights.

One other thing that I read is that shafts can break. I saw these suggested: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121805333696. Are these a complete set of the shorter and longer shafts? I'm confused because it just says 74mm instead of two different sizes. Any suggestions for cheap, plug and play shafts?

Thanks for any help. :)
 
Torque roll is when the torque applied to the propeller of an airplane causes the fuselage to roll in the opposite direction of the applied force.

Torque twist is a similar concept. The motor applied torque to the transmission in a certain direction and causes the frame/suspension to twist in the opposite direction of the force applied.

As for the drive shafts, good question. I'm curious myself.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
The drive shafts are plastic and don't really break so to speak but the ears on the uni joints come off the pins. Just buy shafts to suit an SCX10 and they will fit fine.
 
The first upgrade you may want to consider is the differentials. The stock ones use a plastic connector, which is a known weak spot, and will break easily.
The best alternative is this:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B016OAAW98/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

BTW this is for 1 piece, for 1 diff. to do both front and rear you will need to order 2 pieces.

TE

I don't know if this is the best (the one downside is that if you end up changing to SCX10 axle shafts they don't fit this locker), but it is certainly the easiest way to upgrade your diffs. You can find the same thing much cheaper on ebay if you don't mind waiting on shipping from China. Search hsp 180009.
 
The first upgrade you may want to consider is the differentials. The stock ones use a plastic connector, which is a known weak spot, and will break easily.
The best alternative is this:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B016OAAW98/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

BTW this is for 1 piece, for 1 diff. to do both front and rear you will need to order 2 pieces.

TE

I was referring to the lockers when I said that I had ordered iron crosses. I saw where a lot of people call the lockouts that. Darn, I wish I would have known this first since you either have to modify the stock axles or buy new ones. On the other hand, I've heard a few people that have had the stock axles break so it might be better to use the axial locker and upgrade the axles too. It's actually cheaper that way and should be stronger.
 
If you change the axles, you have to change the bearings as well. the stock ones won't work. That is why I went the way I did. Did not want to have to mess with trying to size new bearings. Look at the first couple of pages, someone did a great comparison on the axles and the differences.

I have a faster 35t motor, and a bunch of other upgrades. Even with my 6 yr old bashing it I still have the stock steel axles - no trouble with them.
TE
 
I'm using the stock axle shafts also, so I went with the HSP part as well. Works fine and is plug and play. I've considered changing to an axial based universal, but I would need to change the locker to do this.
 
I'm using stock axle shafts AND diffs! No problems...yet.

I've put in a rebuildable 27T motor, 15t pinion, and Axial 2.2 RipSaw tires. The crawl ability of the rig increased amazingly with those tires. I also trimmed the steering stops, removed the bump stops on the shocks, removed the preload spacers on the springs, and moved the shocks outboard.

Next, I'm going to try shorter shocks to see if my daughter likes the trail rig stance. If so, I'll order a SCX10 frame.

Having an option for a REALLY GOOD crawler for less than $200 is AWESOME!

Even with buying the used motor, wheels/tires, and shocks from local crawlers and a frame kit from Ebay, I'll still be under $200 on this VERY cable rig.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
This thread is awesome. I didn't see a single post where someone barked "use the search button"....lol. It seems like you Redcat peeps are a cool bunch.

I bought an E10 last year and it had electronic problems right out of the box. The servo would chatter out of control and get very warm within minutes, without even using it. We tried everything to get it stopped, until it finally burned up.

The esc lasted a few days until it lost reverse for no reason (2S batteries only).

So now I've ordered another and its getting delivered today. I bought another one based on this thread and the good people who post here.

Keep the info coming....I can't wait to start the mods!
 
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most redcat owners were newbes not so long ago.
we haven't dealt so much with the upper crust to get snooty.

it is all about having fun without worries.
 
Some people try to define their social status by their make/model, brand, etc of whatever clothing, vehicle, toy/hobby that they are operating at the time. Maybe they don't realize we "normal" folks don't judge the person based on what they spend money on but rather how they treat people.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
Back on track before I fall off that soapbox and hurt myself ...

My buddy just bought an E10 for his son and it had the Hobbywing wp1060. In LiPo mode, it is capable to 3s.

I'm buying one for my youngest for his birthday so I'm hoping I get one with the upgraded ESC.

EDIT******10/12/2016******

I now own the rig mentioned in this post. Or, rather, my son will on his 7th birthday that's coming up in a couple weeks.

My buddy and his kid only drove it twice. It's still like new. I got it for $115. Can't beat that! [emoji322] [emoji320] [emoji512]
 
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Back on track before I fall off that soapbox and hurt myself ...

My buddy just bought an E10 for his son and it had the wp1040 (?) which has the selectable settings for battery: NiMH/LiPo and brake: boat (50%)/crawler (100%). In LiPo mode, it is capable to 3s.

I'm buying one for my youngest for his birthday so I'm hoping I get one with the upgraded ESC.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


Mine will be sitting on my porch when I get home. My fingers are crossed that I get the good esc.
 
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