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A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler
- Thread starter TakeOffYouHoser
- Start date
What's the fun in that? By slot you mean drill it wider and let it self tap?
No need to self tap because the gearbox is threaded. So i just got a drill bit the same size as the stock hole and worked it sideways to slot the holes then screwed the screws in. You could use a dremil instead.
dubyas1989
Quarry Creeper
That's all I did was slot two holes, no problems whatsoever, easy.
So I did a preliminary setup and unfortunately because this chassis is so thick I test mounted the shocks on the outside of the normal axle mounts to clear the frame but now they will touch the large wheels unless I use narrower wheels or mount the shocks in the middle of the chassis (which will make it look ugly and handle like crap?).
Even though I ordered these aluminum shafts in black they still look nice and even with the high angle have little resistance, though I'm going to probably use shorter shocks just in case.
Another good news is that I have room for a 550 motor.
The wheel base came out to be 1" longer or .5" on each axle compared to the proline blazer body I want to use, but I think I can work around that with some modding.
The servo mount and batt holder that came with the chassis are 8.5mm narrower in total, i wonder if i should dremel the skid narrower just to put the shocks on the outside with the E10 tires...hmmm
So my weakest points it seems will be the longest screws holding the shocks and the plastic center skid has the highest load on it.
Update: Forgot about those 4 outside mounts, Ive now narrowed the chassis with this and everything is clear. Unfortunately I can't use the stock batt mount but I can mod it or just live with the bare aluminum one.
I have some reinforcing to do now for the center skit but the good news is it's now lower and the motor mounts fine with my 18t stil(with barely more room though).
It really bugs me they put so many holes close together; it would have been nice to have some leeway in order to tap some M3 holes in the rails.
Even though I ordered these aluminum shafts in black they still look nice and even with the high angle have little resistance, though I'm going to probably use shorter shocks just in case.
Another good news is that I have room for a 550 motor.
The wheel base came out to be 1" longer or .5" on each axle compared to the proline blazer body I want to use, but I think I can work around that with some modding.
The servo mount and batt holder that came with the chassis are 8.5mm narrower in total, i wonder if i should dremel the skid narrower just to put the shocks on the outside with the E10 tires...hmmm
So my weakest points it seems will be the longest screws holding the shocks and the plastic center skid has the highest load on it.
Update: Forgot about those 4 outside mounts, Ive now narrowed the chassis with this and everything is clear. Unfortunately I can't use the stock batt mount but I can mod it or just live with the bare aluminum one.
I have some reinforcing to do now for the center skit but the good news is it's now lower and the motor mounts fine with my 18t stil(with barely more room though).
It really bugs me they put so many holes close together; it would have been nice to have some leeway in order to tap some M3 holes in the rails.
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something to consider ....
they make wider hexes and that will give you a few mms more clearance for the tires on turns
the more costly way is to get wheels with more offset.
another stupid question ...
why not put the skid back between the frame rails and use those nifty little brackets on top of
the shock towers to lower the chassis. it would look a little less rigged.
and yet another subject ...
thanks to all of youse guys, I have been learning quite a bit about shafties from this thread. seems that
most of the other shafty threads are more concerned with spending money than being clever.
they make wider hexes and that will give you a few mms more clearance for the tires on turns
the more costly way is to get wheels with more offset.
another stupid question ...
why not put the skid back between the frame rails and use those nifty little brackets on top of
the shock towers to lower the chassis. it would look a little less rigged.
and yet another subject ...
thanks to all of youse guys, I have been learning quite a bit about shafties from this thread. seems that
most of the other shafty threads are more concerned with spending money than being clever.
Your clearance issues are because you have the chassis rails too far apart. I see you changed that with your little brackets but I would try to make it even narrower. Having the skid under like that is not such a bsd thing though as it lowers the COG. On the scx10 the skid also sits inbetween the rails and inside the rails. I can't give you measurements because I'm at work but try to get the width as close the scx10 as possible. You might need to cut the skid more.
You both make good points but 1. I did not cut the skid and can't put it between the rails as the rails have no indentation and will make the frame too wide thus making the shocks hit the wheels even with wider hexes.
Wider hexes are a great idea, i thought of it but it would make the wheel wobbly and im not sure there's enough thread to securely lock the wheel screw on the hub afterwards.
I think my only issue now is to make the skid nice and secure. If there's room making I can push it up against the rails and drill new holes to make it look cleaner and snug.
As far as the price issue, im actually very froogle, I got everything on sale, the redcat was from amazon warehouse, hop ups from aliexpress and the scx10 parts i got pulled from a kit on ebay.
All in all I think I got a more fun and a better kit than paying over $300 for a mostly plasticy scx10.
Wider hexes are a great idea, i thought of it but it would make the wheel wobbly and im not sure there's enough thread to securely lock the wheel screw on the hub afterwards.
I think my only issue now is to make the skid nice and secure. If there's room making I can push it up against the rails and drill new holes to make it look cleaner and snug.
As far as the price issue, im actually very froogle, I got everything on sale, the redcat was from amazon warehouse, hop ups from aliexpress and the scx10 parts i got pulled from a kit on ebay.
All in all I think I got a more fun and a better kit than paying over $300 for a mostly plasticy scx10.
Yes but it would look ugly and not handle as well. I have narrower diameter 110mm soft dual shocks I got for another kit im going to try should give me more clearance.
Also they do sell shocks with inside spings...i bet I can buy narrow springs and pop them in the shock too.
Apparently these are Integy "clones" probably oem. https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=18370#.VrDbTVmYLM4
Though the one I got has a much better built in shock tower and waaaay cheaper. Their pics are deceiving as you only get the bare chassis too for 3 times the price.
Though the one I got has a much better built in shock tower and waaaay cheaper. Their pics are deceiving as you only get the bare chassis too for 3 times the price.
Jeepiac
Rock Crawler
On your tire clearance issue, Have you thought about using 12mm wheel wideners? Looks like your chassis is thicker than the X-trail chassis I've been using, but for what it's worth I used the stock E10 skid and then pulled the ends of the chassis together with SXC10 bumper mounts. Sounds goofy, but it worked out really good.
Watkins8347
Newbie
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2015
- Messages
- 12
Did you have to change the length of any of your links for this setup?
Scx10 frame, EVERYTHING else everest. Can be done just probably won't have the wheel base you want
Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
Man I ran into a lot of issues trying to move the servo to the rails and mounting everything up to center between the shocks. The hole count did not reference the true center so I marked it between the shocks. The links need to be shortened lucky my skid kit came with the shorter scx10 links and Y shaped arms to test, and it came out ok but its plastic. Then when mounting the scx10 skid to touch the rails I cracked off the end with the threaded hole that mounts the outside links so I ordred the aluminum skid from China with 4 aluminum straight links.
So this is going on hold for now but I can do the front without the Y link for testing though it will wobble. And yes I can mount them to the rail but the motor is tight against the rail so there's no space there even with a 540 motor.
Chinese new year is here so this is going on hold for a while.
So this is going on hold for now but I can do the front without the Y link for testing though it will wobble. And yes I can mount them to the rail but the motor is tight against the rail so there's no space there even with a 540 motor.
Chinese new year is here so this is going on hold for a while.
Nope. Literally just added the scx10 frame and skid
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lol Let me borrow your tools and shed. But seriously it was like 16 bux I'd rather wait for something perfectly machined.
But yea you can buy a hunk of aluminum and use CAD to give it to a CNC shop I guess.
Has anyone done that?
When I worked for a Electrical Engineering shop we used solid works to build template and give a plate to a shop for us to cut it. I wish I kept my contacts!
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dubyas1989
Quarry Creeper
You can just make one out of a block of delrin, it's fairly easy to work with.
