• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler

35 turn motor will be slower than I have now so that's not going to work. I have an Axial 27 turn motor with the stock 14 tooth pinion and I want more wheel speed. Going with 20 turn motor and a 20 tooth pinion will give me what i'm looking for or at least get me closer. I'll let you guys know how it works out. If I decide I want a little more, i'll go with a smaller spur. I'm not worried about the drive shafts, I have steel ones waiting to go in. Most of the truck has already been upgraded. A of great info in this thread though, much appreciated.
 
honchojoe said:
I also said run 3S[emoji14]that's what will give you the power and wheel speed you want.
Click to expand...

I just dremeled off the front Dog-bones to put in the Axial housing and HPI diff:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-moPOhJyfJ2MjNZTDZpRnRERlU
cant insert google images for some reason
I also dremeled off the inner steering hub notch to get a narrower turn radius.
https://youtu.be/1d8l9mpODhE
https://youtu.be/vNAGHOnrkB4
That's on a 17t (which barely fit) 18.5T 2700k sensored motor with a turnigy 4S and Turnigy GenII. Wish I took a vid to answer a question about slow speed but I can get to to move very slowly.
The heavy batt and power made it torque twist a lot so I just put shock spacers on one side to keep the body even.

Traction was great in the snow! It accelerated extremely well. "thumbsup"

view


P.S
I also have Zippycompact 3S 25C 2.7AH from HK and these are a bit shorter and lighter than a 6cell NMIH! Not sure if anyone has any experience with the 4s ZIPPY Compact 2700mAh 4S 25C Lipo Pack
https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xta1/t51.2885-15/s320x320/e15/11024176_1586897881527328_40894048_n.jpg

IMO at this weight and very high FDR I tested this kit to 100watts max pulling it on my carpet; so a "cheap" brushless system can be in mind.
 
Last edited:
You will lose crawlability by unlocking your diffs. Will perform more like a monster truck. With a hi turn/low kv sensored motor you can still crawl ok. Or a very low kv non sensored motor.
 
honchojoe said:
You will lose crawlability by unlocking your diffs. Will perform more like a monster truck. With a hi turn/low kv sensored motor you can still crawl ok. Or a very low kv non sensored motor.
Click to expand...
Well I hope I don't get banned for such blasphemy. I did put a stiff spring in there with washers and a bit of 80k sct oil to lube it until I get orings and real axial dogbones that will fit so I can glue gun it thus stop it from leaking, and the rear is locked. It crawls up my walls and over my coffee table legs fine, sometimes a front wheel will stop but I just throttle it and it goes, the truck only weighs 6lb loaded. That's like 1.5lb a wheel. I like to bash more so it helps with turning and not destroying stuff.
I'm still waiting for my aluminum shafts, metal spur and aluminum diff which seem to have been stuck in the snow storm.

FYI I do agree with you except about the low kv non snesored. A 2200kv on a castle 8th cant start slow it will always jump a bit, though on a heavy 1/8th buggy with a very small pinion its ok after the first blip.

Forgot to mention one big gripe about this kit -anyway to remedy the issue of the servo pretty much being an expensive bumper/snow plow? I'm thinking of an aluminum sheet and tapering it to screw it somewhere; any good ideas?
 
Last edited:
The stock HSP version has bumpers but all they do is get stuck on stuff. Better off leaving as is and try not to run into stuff.
 
You may be able to reverse the plastic servo mount tabs on the metal plate and mount the servo set back so to speak. Not sure how well everything would line up at that point, may have to clearance the servo mount. Give it a shot and let us know how it works out. In the end though your steering shaft is still left exposed which will bend or snap the tabs off the knuckles. Either way something will always e in harms way. Like said above, try not to hit things.
 
People have converted to BTA (behind the axle) steering before. Probably not on an E10 but has been done before on scx10/ax10. Might be worth a try. You would have to make a custom bent steering link to clear the drive shaft though.
 
Hi All,
new to this forum, helping a friend with their Everest crawler and have a few question.
Firstly will the rc4wd 5mm scale steel punisher shaft centre uni (100-130mm) fit the everest?..Amain was out of stock for the kit ones.
Secondly We are looking to fit a Tamiya fj40 cruiser body would appreciate any advice or tips to get it fitting and looking right, I was thinking of some kind of velcro
mounting to avoid using the side body mounts.

Thanks
Craig.
 
You will need to significantly shorten the axle links, shortening the wheel base, to make the FJ body or any other 1/10 body fit propery. The E10 is really 1/8 not 1/10 As for the shafts, you'll have to cut them down for proper fitment also. Starting with shorter shafts to begin with will probably help you.
 
Thanks for the advice "thumbsup"
I was concerned the body would be too short for the Everests wheelbase.
Its going to take a bit of modding but that's all part of the fun 8)
 
Absolutely, and it can be done. Cut the links down, cut the drive shafts down, shave here and there to keep the axles clocked for proper driveshaft geometry, and you're good to go. Keep in mind, as the wheel base gets shorter and the shocks are more vertical, the truck will start to sit higher. With the shorter wheel base and more vertical shock, you will not flex as well either. This can be helped with softer springs, lighter oil, shorter shocks, or all of the above. Basically the options are endless, it's all about how deep you want to get into it.
 
Yeah that's going change a few thing and effect the performance if you dont get it right, I hope she will understand the time and work involved to get anywhere near how it should look.
 
You may want to look into some 1.9 wheels to replace the 2.2 stockers. It will give it a more realistic look and will probably perform better due to being able to tuck the tires better otherwise it will have the monster truck look. Really depends on what you're looking for.
 
I think you will have to fab that chassis to get it to work. Plus you will need shorter shocks like 90-95mm. It a crap shoot if the links will be a perfect fit

Your best bet is to look on RPP or eBay for a complete assembled chassis for around $55 shipped. It comes with all the hardware rx box shock mounts and battery tray

You can fab in your E10 trans plate to work but I just looked here on the classifieds and found a complete stock scx10 trans and slipper for $30

I know others have got the stock links to work. I had some issue that I had to shorten the front to get things right(don't know why) I made my own links out of 8-32 all thead and 3/16 brake line and Traxxas revo rod ends and a dremel for less than $20. They have had many a tumble and over 80 hours of crawling and haven't bent or broke
 
MordyNYC said:
Can this be a direct drop in without buying new links or servo mount?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't count on any aftermarket chassis to be a perfect drop in without having to modify anything. Usually, different links are required and, in this case, most likely modding the skid to work.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
looking for a 1st 1/10 crawler
Replies
7
Views
170
89Industries
8
N
SCX24 stock parts performer .
Replies
3
Views
361
JimrC
JimrC
J
My capra "build"
Replies
0
Views
101
Jefferson87
J
D
Rhino Yue One V2 - "Diamondback"
Replies
7
Views
711
Dannko
D
TorchBenny
RC4WD Tacoma SCX10II
Replies
13
Views
595
TorchBenny
TorchBenny
Back
Top