A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler

[Platinumzj5.9]

This is what I've got on order.

2pcs Silver AX80020 RC Aluminum Rear Cup Axle Lockout for Axial SCX10 AX10 | eBay

RC 1 10th SCX10 AX10 Metal Solid Axle Dogbone 2P 6x74mm Axial AX30420 | eBay

RC 1 10th Rock Crawler 94180 Alum Caster Mounts L R HSP 180003 18006 Silver | eBay

RC 1 10 Rock Crawler 94180 Alum Center Link Ball Mounts HSP 180001 18003 Silver | eBay

10 Pcs MR115ZZ Miniature Metal Shielded Rubber SEALED Bearing Model 5 x 11 x 4mm | eBay

RC 1 10th SCX10 Metal Straight Axle 2P 6x104 50mm Axial AX30421 | eBay

I've already got a set of crosses so i'm good there.


This stuff will be ordered in a couple weeks.

4x20mm Wheel Spacer Widener for Tamiya AX10 SCX10 Truck Ford 1 10 High Lift F350 | eBay

RC 1 10th Rock Crawler 94180 Servo Mount HSP 180010 18010 Silver Upgrade Parts | eBay

RC 1 10th Rock Crawler 94180 Alum Gear Box Shell Only HSP 180013 18024 Silver | eBay

SCX10 01 Silver Aluminum Front Knuckle Arm 2P RC Axial 1 10 SCX10 Jeep Wrangler | eBay

I've got a 2nd brand new truck which is for my 8 year old for Christmas. I already out boarded the shocks, took apart the tranny and axles to grease them, installed an aluminum servo horn, and removed the foams from the tires. Once my axles are built, the current goodies in them now will get moved over to her truck. It never ends lol. I'll document both with part numbers and any fitment issues and post up a detailed photo heavy instruction on what I did. Going to be 3-4 weeks before that happens though.

First time trying to post a picture, lets see what happens. Anyway, here's what I was talking about.



Has anyone figured out how to mirror the transmission using the factory case? Our cases don't have the plug like the Axial case does.

I'm not a fan of the color of the factory aluminum parts. I decided to strip them all down. I'll be polishing them over the next couple days, pictures will follow. Bad picture but there is no anodize left on them at all.

Quick polish using a chrome polish I had. Don't use chrome polish, it's too abrasive. I will get some aluminum polish tomorrow and hopefully buff this out some. I was being impatient, made more work for myself in the end.

 

[dirtman71]

does anybody know if the E10 center ball mount for the upper 4 link fits on the axial scx10 axle housing?

 

[honchojoe]

does anybody know if the E10 center ball mount for the upper 4 link fits on the axial scx10 axle housing?

With modification yes. When you try to fit it on you will see that it hits the housing at one spot. You will need to use a knife to cut out some of the material at that spot.

 

[dirtman71]

I think I will do an xr steering mod...or not but would like to get the old E10 back up and running soon. Will get axial housings so I can go aluminum without any mods for the SCX10 and take the E10 cases and put the stock E10 gears back in and put the everest back online.

I was looking on page 4 here and the holes look like they line up but the housing had a bit different shape.

Thanks Joe

 

[Aoe2king1]

I have had my Everest 10 around a month and today after charging the battery and turning it on I noticed forward does not work, I have tried everything to fix the issue but I'm thinking possibly the ESC is bad. I plugged the ESC wire into the steering slot on the receiver and reverse is all that works, swapped the positive and negative around on the battery and finally got the foward to work. Any ideas?

Also does anyone knows what the small button on the receiver is for?

 

[honchojoe]

I have had my Everest 10 around a month and today after charging the battery and turning it on I noticed forward does not work, I have tried everything to fix the issue but I'm thinking possibly the ESC is bad. I plugged the ESC wire into the steering slot on the receiver and reverse is all that works, swapped the positive and negative around on the battery and finally got the foward to work. Any ideas?

Also does anyone knows what the small button on the receiver is for?

Sounds like your esc has failed.

 

[Platinumzj5.9]

Here's where i'm at right now. Overall, i'm very happy with the results. I've got a bunch of aluminum upgraded parts on their way so i'll post more pictures when they get here.

<a href="http://s1194.photobucket.com/user/Jeeperz1982/media/Polished%201_zps48rkxqs0.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa364/Jeeperz1982/Polished%201_zps48rkxqs0.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Polished 1_zps48rkxqs0.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1194.photobucket.com/user/Jeeperz1982/media/Polished%202_zpssqyzis04.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa364/Jeeperz1982/Polished%202_zpssqyzis04.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Polished 2_zpssqyzis04.jpg"/></a>

 

[Platinumzj5.9]

ESC is covered under warranty for 90 days, get with Redcat and they'll ship you a new one.

 

[honchojoe]

If it warranty isn't an option get yourself a hobbywing wp1060. Available on ebay and now on hobbyking.com as well.

 

[Platinumzj5.9]

Can't beat that

Hobbywing Quicrun 60A WP 1060 Brushed Waterproof ESC 1 10 Touring Car Buggy SCT | eBay

 

[honchojoe]

If you want it quicker it should be available in the states for about $5-10 more.

 

[Aoe2king1]

Sounds like your esc has failed.

That's what I was thinking too, do you know of a better replacement that would not need modification

If you want it quicker it should be available in the states for about $5-10 more.

Ordered the ESC, will let you know how it goes. Thank again

 

[honchojoe]

I run one myself. Great little esc. Infact the Axial AE5 esc is actually a rebadged Hobbywing wp1040 so this is the upgraded version of that. It has 2 jumpers. 1 for lipo or nimh. The other is the mode setting. You need to remove that one all together then it will run in instant fwd-rev mode with drag brake.

 

[Platinumzj5.9]

Thank you. All I did is remove all the metal parts, wash them well, and soak them in draino for about 10 minutes. That was enough time to strip them down to clean aluminum. Wash them very well under cold water and polished them using mothers aluminum polish. If you use this method, wear gloves to avoid draino contact on your skin. It may burn, not really sure but it can't be good for you.

 

[Jeepiac]

Thank you. All I did is remove all the metal parts, wash them well, and soak them in draino for about 10 minutes. That was enough time to strip them down to clean aluminum. Wash them very well under cold water and polished them using mothers aluminum polish. If you use this method, wear gloves to avoid draino contact on your skin. It may burn, not really sure but it can't be good for you.

Thanks for the Draino tip! Thinkin I may have to give this a try.

 

[Platinumzj5.9]

No problem. Don't leave the parts in the draino any longer than needed. The draino will eat up the aluminum and pit it.

I did a little playing around tonight. Removed the HSP locker from the front axle and put my Axial cross back in along with Axial front shafts. Fit perfectly using stock bearings and all. Issue is, the Axial shafts are not designed to have the bearing locked to them using the snap ring like the OEM Redcat shafts are. The Axial shafts are literally not held in the housing by anything at all, they are free to slop around between the locker and the stub shafts in the knuckles. What is the cure for this?

 

[honchojoe]

No need to do anything. That's how stock scx10 units are. The cup/stub axle will hold them in place.

 

[dirtman71]

Yes the bearings mount father down the axle and the housing has tabs to hold them in place... But I could be wrong cause I have crappy integy CVD's and that's how they work

 

[honchojoe]

Nope. Nothing holds them in. If you remove the knuckle they just fall right out.

 

[Platinumzj5.9]

Not really sure the Axial shafts and crosses are "better" than the stock shafts and HSP locker but we'll see. HSP lockers will go in my daughters new rig. Id rather do trial stuff in my rig, less chance of an upset 8 year old that way lol.