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A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler

^^^^drpends on what version you buy. If you buy a version with "pins" then yes you will have to cut the pin section off the grub screw or if you are buying aftermarket alloy or steel units they often come with just normal grub screws. But aside from that direct fit.
 
First of all let me thank you all for the excellent information and support in this thread.

As seems inevitable with these the plastic locker rounds out and becomes useless. So thanks to the info in this thread I ordered the Axial metal locker part #30500 and Redcats Differential Case part #02039.
After doing some grinding on the axles to fit the Axial locker everything went back together smooth and seems to be working great!
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I'm ordering another E10 for my daughter for Christmas. It seems that using these RC 1 10th SCX10 AX10 Metal Solid Axle Dogbone 2P 6x74mm Axial AX30420 | eBay along with these Axial Racing Heavy Duty Diff Locker 2 AXIAX30500 | eBay is 100% bolt in with nothing to modify other than removing the plastic locker from the OEM housing. Really doesn't get much easier than that. For less than $35 both axles are done. Wish I knew that before ordering my aluminum HSP lockers for mine over the summer lol
 
I'm ordering another E10 for my daughter for Christmas. It seems that using these RC 1 10th SCX10 AX10 Metal Solid Axle Dogbone 2P 6x74mm Axial AX30420 | eBay along with these Axial Racing Heavy Duty Diff Locker 2 AXIAX30500 | eBay is 100% bolt in with nothing to modify other than removing the plastic locker from the OEM housing. Really doesn't get much easier than that. For less than $35 both axles are done. Wish I knew that before ordering my aluminum HSP lockers for mine over the summer lol
And if you're really lazy you could buy this part. It's 2 diff housings. No cutting/drilling required.

HSP part #: 02039

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I've looked online and around here, so sorry if this is repeated. I'm new to the e10. What exactly do you have to do to mirror the transmission?

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Hey guys...new to the forum. Just ordered a e10 and haven't received it yet. Could someone give me a measurement between body mount posts front to back? Weird request I know but I wanted to see if a tamiya suzuki jimny body would fit. There is only 5" between the openings of the wheel wells. Do yall think it would look completely goofy? I like the scale look and was going to fit a proline blazer body but I drive a samurai so I think it'd be neat. The tamiya body measurements are : w=5.75 l=10.25 h=5.125 and wheel base =6.5. Without having the truck I can't play with a measuring tape. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hey guys...new to the forum. Just ordered a e10 and haven't received it yet. Could someone give me a measurement between body mount posts front to back? Weird request I know but I wanted to see if a tamiya suzuki jimny body would fit. There is only 5" between the openings of the wheel wells. Do yall think it would look completely goofy? I like the scale look and was going to fit a proline blazer body but I drive a samurai so I think it'd be neat. The tamiya body measurements are : w=5.75 l=10.25 h=5.125 and wheel base =6.5. Without having the truck I can't play with a measuring tape. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I can't comment on the particular measurement you're looking for, but most clear lexan bodies don't have mount holes pre-drilled. You drill those yourself with a body reamer or something similar. IMO, scale bodies look a little out of place on 2.2 rigs that are set up in non-scaler fashion like the E10 comes stock. Mostly because the wheels/tires are huge in comparison and you have to mount the body higher for tire to body clearance and that messes with your center of gravity.

If you like the scale look, I would suggest turning your E10 into one. Add a ladder style frame like the SCX10 chassis, 1.9 wheels and tires, make your own links to get the proper wheelbase, etc...
 
Body will fit but it won't look right. That Tamiya body is more of a 1/12th The E10 is a BIG 1/10th Now you could make custom links to shorten the wheel base, shorten the drive shafts, and make it work but you'll loose the whole crawler aspect of the rig.
 
I like the scale trucks but I don't want to majorly modify this thing. I'd rather keep the crawling capabilities but it is just a toy for me to mess with. I know it probably won't look right but if it will cover up the frame and electronics, and only links and axles are sticking out I'd probably be ok with that. I just think it'd be neat to paint it identical to my samurai. The body I am looking at, however is already painted black. I need it to be white so I'd have to paint the outside or try to remove the old paint. Does anybody have the distance between body posts for me yet? And possibly a measurement of the length of everything that would fit under the body? Mine won't be here until Monday. If the body goes cheap enough, I'll go ahead and buy it.
 
Bone stock E10 with Pro-Line body to give you an idea what it might look like with a more scale body. Not great, but aint bad either.
 

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I just got the truck and so far I installed some Panther cougar tires on some integy aluminum wheels. I added a little weight to the front. Also took out the pre-load springs. I have a problem though....the integy wheels don't leave enough wheel stud exposed to make it to the nylon of the locking nut. Do they make longer wheel studs?
 
Doing some modding this morning on the battery tray trying to get the CG a little forward and lower.

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Notched the bottom to make bending easier.
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Came out pretty good.
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Believe it or not there's no rub even at full flex.
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Also relocated the reciever, I never really liked it standing on it's side like it was stock.

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