Plastic generally isn't ideal for a winch mount, you could make a metal battery tray and mount it on the bottom side of thatAnybody do a servo winch mount on there stock Everest Chassis yet ,I need to add one to my grandkids rigs ,,Thank you Robert
After looking at some pics I might mount winch to bottom of battery tray....
New to crawling, not r/c. I picked up the Everest 10 for a couple reasons. I like the price is one major reason. It's stock right now but very capable right of the shelf. I already purchased a pair of HB crawler tires, a spare battery and a banana to Tamiya adapter. My plans are all over the place, probably because I am geeked out over a new facet to a hobby. I plan to paint a few bodies for it...build a couple sets of wheel/tire combos...start swapping gears and motors and whatnot. After a few bodies are painted and wheels swapped I'll post a few pics. Cheers.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
the whole purpose of a hobby is to have fun (and to spend money)
we can do what others do or suggest, or we can try to think beyond the norm
and try weird esoteric things.
enjoy
Great advice. Very true about the lack of clearance. As for spending the $$ on bodies etc...heck...I enjoy the painting, masking, and payoff element that isn't there in a RTR. Sure I can spend more than it's worth on just parts, accessories and whatnot ...it's why I love it and the wife hates it. Thanks for replying!Dont burn too much $.
Motoring is limited because of the tight space with the stock mount/chassis. At 17T Pinion it's very tight. 550 motor will get blocked by a link nut, so 540 length is max on stock chassis.
Crawler bodies are ripoffs, for 3 crawler bodies you can buy this kit new again lol
Also this has a long wheel axle FYI.
I'd upgrade the shafts to metal/alloy, steel spur, sensored motor/esc, some of those dual spring clone aluminum shocks (110mm is max), there's a screw kit online for steel hex screws honestly i found it to be like movie popcorn...
Get a nice hardened 48P (imperial) pinion, aluminum wheel nuts, you can get open diff metal spiders or a completely aluminum locker gear too online from ebay/ali.
There's also aluminum tranny etc but IMO those arent weak points, they just look nice.
3S battery will fit fine too, you can get zippy compact 3s which is same size and lighter than a 5AH NIMH set.
etc etc
I've thrashed on mine pretty hard, but haven't intentionally tried to destroy it. At this point mine is pretty much stock except for the Axial lockers, 37T motor and 4 wheel steering. I've put around 8 hours on it and nothing broken yet. Read through this entire thread and you'll find out everything you need to know. Lots of good info on here!
Is the stock remote ready for 4ws? Thanks.
I flew planes for years....still do from time to time. Most or all outrunners you can flip the shaft to work either wayVery neat.
I've been thinking of a dual shaft outrunner with 5mm shafts.
Something like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZESmrFhzeg
I learned you can pop in a longer shaft into most Outrunner motors to get them like above.
These seems sturdy and the mounting holes look similar
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HD2QUE8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
Anyone know if the scx10 motor mount matches?