Jeepiac
Rock Crawler
I've had the same thing happen to me. Nothing like waking up Christmas morning to find out it's been postponed.
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A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler
- Thread starter TakeOffYouHoser
- Start date
Well without having an E10 to play with I have gone back into thought. Looks like I need to add an inch or 2 of droop. I am already thinking of an xtrail chassis.
Jeepiac... What mods did you need to do to adapt your xtrail?
If I just used 100mm shocks on the E10 would it limit the flex too much?
Has anybody used any internal spring shocks?
Jeepiac... What mods did you need to do to adapt your xtrail?
If I just used 100mm shocks on the E10 would it limit the flex too much?
Has anybody used any internal spring shocks?
Jeepiac
Rock Crawler
Been a while since my original build and it's changed a lot, but I'll try to remember the high points of the build. First off I bought a Dynamite screw kit for the Stamped/Slash.
The tranny/skid plate bolts right up to the chassis, and I think I was running 125mm shocks with the 2.2 tires. I used a lot of 3/16" brake like cut to different lengths for shock spacers ect. Chopped up the battery tray and mounted it long ways as far as I could between the chassis rails. Watch your pinion angles if you go this rout. You might have to shorted links or even drill new holes in the cassis.
100mm shocks wont work to well on the stock chassis due to the angle the shocks mount up.
Here's some cheapo shocks that work good for experimenting. They are hit and miss, but for the price what the hell. I got a awesome set that's on my Wraith for $5.00 "thumbsup"
2Pcs 106004 Aluminum Shock Absorber for RC 1:10 Off-road Car Truggy HSP Purple | eBay
The tranny/skid plate bolts right up to the chassis, and I think I was running 125mm shocks with the 2.2 tires. I used a lot of 3/16" brake like cut to different lengths for shock spacers ect. Chopped up the battery tray and mounted it long ways as far as I could between the chassis rails. Watch your pinion angles if you go this rout. You might have to shorted links or even drill new holes in the cassis.
100mm shocks wont work to well on the stock chassis due to the angle the shocks mount up.
Here's some cheapo shocks that work good for experimenting. They are hit and miss, but for the price what the hell. I got a awesome set that's on my Wraith for $5.00 "thumbsup"
2Pcs 106004 Aluminum Shock Absorber for RC 1:10 Off-road Car Truggy HSP Purple | eBay
Jeepiac
Rock Crawler
I'm digging deep to remember, but I think I was running 125mm with the 2.2 tires and 100mm with the 1.9's that are on it now. I'll measure them and let you know for sure.
Jeepiac
Rock Crawler
Dug out the old shocks and measured. I ran 125mm with 2.2 tires and I am now running 80mm with the 1.9's.
Thanks again everybody who told me to get the E10
I just spent the best 3 hours in my backyard"thumbsup"
I think this thing is amazing....now I really have nothing to compare it to...but it did way more than I thought it would. considering I have never drove a crawler before and have only seen one run once in person this thing is great.
yes it might take me a few tries to get up something but it finds a way to creep its way up.
All i have done so far is pulled the foam from the tires and added 2.5oz to each tire and added a few more vent holes in the rims. They seem to flatten out nicely and I thought it had good sidebite. If these tires suck i cant wait to get to get some good tires. i did pull the shock spacers so that took some tension off the springs and added a bit of droop
I have not put in my CVDs yet...cause I dont have any. the HB axles I ordered never got shipped...bad seller on ebay(should have checked his reviews). but got a quick refund and ordered up some integy cvds so that might be next weekends prodject
Now about the steering. the turn radius stinks. You better have 40 acres to turn this rig around, or you can do a 20 point turn. Crawing the steering is ok. the servo is a bit weak but that might be a good thing until I upgrade the C hubs and Knuckles. It does make me think about adding the 4ws
i did see some torque twist in the body but it didnt seem to affect what I was doing. i did get a rear tire wedged a few times and wheel stand the front.
the stock brushed system worked nice. It dont go much faster that a slow walk. but I could inch my way super slow and let the tires get a good bit. It is a silver can motor but they have a fancy sticker on it. It got a big nuber on it that i think says 40. the chassis covers it so I can only see a tiny bit of it. I did use my MT4 TX. That might have helped with the smoothness of the throttle.
Another thing is that it dont look brand new anymore...The axles are all scratched up along with all the links and bellypan
I just spent the best 3 hours in my backyard"thumbsup"
I think this thing is amazing....now I really have nothing to compare it to...but it did way more than I thought it would. considering I have never drove a crawler before and have only seen one run once in person this thing is great.
yes it might take me a few tries to get up something but it finds a way to creep its way up.
All i have done so far is pulled the foam from the tires and added 2.5oz to each tire and added a few more vent holes in the rims. They seem to flatten out nicely and I thought it had good sidebite. If these tires suck i cant wait to get to get some good tires. i did pull the shock spacers so that took some tension off the springs and added a bit of droop
I have not put in my CVDs yet...cause I dont have any. the HB axles I ordered never got shipped...bad seller on ebay(should have checked his reviews). but got a quick refund and ordered up some integy cvds so that might be next weekends prodject
Now about the steering. the turn radius stinks. You better have 40 acres to turn this rig around, or you can do a 20 point turn. Crawing the steering is ok. the servo is a bit weak but that might be a good thing until I upgrade the C hubs and Knuckles. It does make me think about adding the 4ws
i did see some torque twist in the body but it didnt seem to affect what I was doing. i did get a rear tire wedged a few times and wheel stand the front.
the stock brushed system worked nice. It dont go much faster that a slow walk. but I could inch my way super slow and let the tires get a good bit. It is a silver can motor but they have a fancy sticker on it. It got a big nuber on it that i think says 40. the chassis covers it so I can only see a tiny bit of it. I did use my MT4 TX. That might have helped with the smoothness of the throttle.
Another thing is that it dont look brand new anymore...The axles are all scratched up along with all the links and bellypan
LOL....I just decided to go for another run.....Lasted about 5 ft. the stock esc took a dump. Lost power. No smoke or smell looks like something came undone on the inside....do they warranty the esc?
Well It looks like its going brushless sooner than I thought. Novak 25.5 and Edge esc.
If the brushless is too much might have to track down a brushed esc for cheap. Sad thing is I had a bunch of old but good brushed esc's but I got rid of them a few years ago. Never thought i would need them
Well It looks like its going brushless sooner than I thought. Novak 25.5 and Edge esc.
If the brushless is too much might have to track down a brushed esc for cheap. Sad thing is I had a bunch of old but good brushed esc's but I got rid of them a few years ago. Never thought i would need them
Also for slightly better steering angle do this mod.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=539816
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=539816
thanks for the info
I might have to find an instant reverse brushed esc.
I installed the 25.5 novak with the Edge esc. the drag brake was set at 6% and if I luged down the motor and stopped the tires for too long the esc would kick into fail safe. After reprogramming and setting the Drag to a max of 30% it never kicked out for the rest of the battery a good hour of run time. maybe its cured or maybe I just ran it differently and didnt bog it down enough to kick out.
The speed and power of the 25.5 was nice. Just a bit higher top speed and much more snap if you nailed the throttle. Nice but not needed. the biggest issue I had was the double tap reverse. I got used to it by the end of the battery but it wasnt as smooth as I would like. If i was going slow enough I didnt have to double. have a few more esc's I can try to see if they have instant reverse
I still think i need to get a brushed esc
I might have to find an instant reverse brushed esc.
I installed the 25.5 novak with the Edge esc. the drag brake was set at 6% and if I luged down the motor and stopped the tires for too long the esc would kick into fail safe. After reprogramming and setting the Drag to a max of 30% it never kicked out for the rest of the battery a good hour of run time. maybe its cured or maybe I just ran it differently and didnt bog it down enough to kick out.
The speed and power of the 25.5 was nice. Just a bit higher top speed and much more snap if you nailed the throttle. Nice but not needed. the biggest issue I had was the double tap reverse. I got used to it by the end of the battery but it wasnt as smooth as I would like. If i was going slow enough I didnt have to double. have a few more esc's I can try to see if they have instant reverse
I still think i need to get a brushed esc
Check out that hobbywing brushed one. Instant reverse and drag brake set to 100% lol. Only issue is it can't be changed from 100%. However that will suit 90% of people. I'm going to buy one to replace my Novak Rooster esc.
Well success!
Pulled out the Novak Edge and put in my BrushlessHobbies 120a V1. Stuck it on the laptop to check the programing and bingo....foward with direct reverse!. Killed the turbo, slowed the initial startup and set the drag to 60%(I can set it anywhere from 0-100%). this thing is so smooth in a creep and transitions from forward to reverse are seemless.
that is compaired to the stock esc and the Edge
Pulled out the Novak Edge and put in my BrushlessHobbies 120a V1. Stuck it on the laptop to check the programing and bingo....foward with direct reverse!. Killed the turbo, slowed the initial startup and set the drag to 60%(I can set it anywhere from 0-100%). this thing is so smooth in a creep and transitions from forward to reverse are seemless.
that is compaired to the stock esc and the Edge
ok here is what I have done this weekend.
Pulled the axles apart
Added Axcial diff casses and lockers
Added Integy CVD's in both(for AX10)
Added a touch of grease to the bevel gears
Trimmed the steering stops on the knuckles
Flipped the front shocks and link mounting on axle
Changed to all stainless steel on the front(Ran out 1/2 way through the rear.
Trimmed up the Stock tires
Added 4 wheel steering
Added 2 TP996r servos
everything was pretty much straight forward. I did have to dremil the C-hub to fit the CVD cups. And the rear axle case was a pain not to over tighten. the bevel gear had a spot where there was the tiniest bit of binding. looks like I might try some Axcial cases next with some new bearings.
I was questioning the shock/link flip cause stock i had plenty of room. But trimming the stops made a big difference in the steering. Glad I flipped it.
I think the TP 996 servos are stronger than the stock even if they are rated for 13kg and not 15kg...and they dont get nearly as hot. And I think they are a bit faster.
the 4ws is cool. I just need to learn when to use it and when not to. Things I could climb normal I had a hard time with 4ws and things I had a hard time normal I could get through with 4ws. It was nice just to kick on rear steer and slide the rear over to get a bite.
the tire trimming I cant tell if it helped much. I have no foam in so the next step is messing with foam.
Its been over 100 degrees here the past few days so its been hot out in the garage and miserable outside to do any testing. hopfully it will cool down a bit by next weekend and I can get out with a buddy and really play around.
Pulled the axles apart
Added Axcial diff casses and lockers
Added Integy CVD's in both(for AX10)
Added a touch of grease to the bevel gears
Trimmed the steering stops on the knuckles
Flipped the front shocks and link mounting on axle
Changed to all stainless steel on the front(Ran out 1/2 way through the rear.
Trimmed up the Stock tires
Added 4 wheel steering
Added 2 TP996r servos
everything was pretty much straight forward. I did have to dremil the C-hub to fit the CVD cups. And the rear axle case was a pain not to over tighten. the bevel gear had a spot where there was the tiniest bit of binding. looks like I might try some Axcial cases next with some new bearings.
I was questioning the shock/link flip cause stock i had plenty of room. But trimming the stops made a big difference in the steering. Glad I flipped it.
I think the TP 996 servos are stronger than the stock even if they are rated for 13kg and not 15kg...and they dont get nearly as hot. And I think they are a bit faster.
the 4ws is cool. I just need to learn when to use it and when not to. Things I could climb normal I had a hard time with 4ws and things I had a hard time normal I could get through with 4ws. It was nice just to kick on rear steer and slide the rear over to get a bite.
the tire trimming I cant tell if it helped much. I have no foam in so the next step is messing with foam.
Its been over 100 degrees here the past few days so its been hot out in the garage and miserable outside to do any testing. hopfully it will cool down a bit by next weekend and I can get out with a buddy and really play around.
