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A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler

ok I will be ordering mine soon...maybe this weekend

I hear one mention of a slipper clutch... I am guessing not having one is not an issue. that being said the stock trans must hold up pretty well? cant find aftermarket gears...just the whole trans for $15

Anybody run brushless? I have a 25.5t novak that is collecting dust that I need to do something with.
 
ok I will be ordering mine soon...maybe this weekend

I hear one mention of a slipper clutch... I am guessing not having one is not an issue. that being said the stock trans must hold up pretty well? cant find aftermarket gears...just the whole trans for $15

Anybody run brushless? I have a 25.5t novak that is collecting dust that I need to do something with.

I'm thinking the durability of the transmission is comparable to that of the SCX10. My pair of E10's are 7 months old now and have been put through quite a bit of abuse and the tranny's are doing great so far, but the most power they've seen is a 20T on 2s. As cheap as the transmissions are to replace I wouldn't be scared to try brushless.

Better beef up the lockers though. One good stab of the throttle and they'll be done for if you put any serious power to them.
 
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my plan is to keep it stock at first...just to see how it does. Looks like the stock bushed is just my speed. the first thing will be the $15 Iron Cross lockers with the stock shafts. I am not planning any steering mods yet so I hope I get use out of the stock shafts for a while. If I have shaft issues will have to install cvd's.

From what I have read lockers and shafts, and aluminum knuckles will make it pretty bulletproof

Foam and tire trimming helps but a new set of tires are a must

Looks like the stock shocks are ok but needs to put in some droop

If the stock shocks give me issues will have to buy new ones, and if i do that might go more scale with the tcs xtrail chassis and 90-100mm shocks

I will add my MT4 tx

So the way I look at it I can do everything I want with new tires and end up with a stronger better rig for less than a Stock Axial.

but then again this is not about the money. Its the journey not the destination. taking the underdog and making something competive
 
Stock tires are 2.2 Add weight to the wheels, helps a lot. Move the shocks outboard, upgrade lockers (my opinion is get new connect boxes, I wasn't a fan of filing down the OEM shafts) I added a 27T Axial motor which was night and day. If you want tires I have a set of new Axial BFG Krawlers ill let go cheap, PM me

Here's a link to the connect boxes

http://www.helipal.com/180009-connector-gear-assembly-38t.html

Order 2 of those, direct drop in and no need to remove material from your axle shafts.
 
my plan is to keep it stock at first...just to see how it does. Looks like the stock bushed is just my speed. the first thing will be the $15 Iron Cross lockers with the stock shafts. I am not planning any steering mods yet so I hope I get use out of the stock shafts for a while. If I have shaft issues will have to install cvd's.

From what I have read lockers and shafts, and aluminum knuckles will make it pretty bulletproof

Foam and tire trimming helps but a new set of tires are a must

Looks like the stock shocks are ok but needs to put in some droop

If the stock shocks give me issues will have to buy new ones, and if i do that might go more scale with the tcs xtrail chassis and 90-100mm shocks

I will add my MT4 tx

So the way I look at it I can do everything I want with new tires and end up with a stronger better rig for less than a Stock Axial.

but then again this is not about the money. Its the journey not the destination. taking the underdog and making something competive

The stock shafts hold up pretty good until you start trying to get more steering out of it. They'll snap without warning. The Xtrail chassis is the way to go when you want to move the E10 into the upper ranks.

This was my E10 with the Xtrail chassis and 2.2's then with 1.9's
 

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Stock gearbox seems to be pretty good as mentioned above. I've had mine for nearly 2 years. Rqn the stock motor then a 12T 550 motor that was very quick then a hsp buggy motor. Still going strong. I broke the stock plastic drive shafts so I fitted the axial wb8 shafts.
 
I'm sure the scx10 one would fit. You need both the cover and mount. I assume snyway. That being said I don't run a cover on my scx10 or my HSP based scx10. Never had a problem.
 
Ordered up an E10...should have it by this weekend

thanks everybody for the help with the decision
i had 3 crawlers in mind and could make up my mind. the E10 was at the bottom. After going through everything there is no doubt that the E10 is what i wanted. I am very happy with my choice. Its funny that I am still not second guessing the E10

thanks again for all the help...I am sure I will need more later
 
I have read through here about the stock ax10/scx10 axle mod i got the jist that they were not a direct fit that they needed to be trimmed at the ends to fit that they were too long.
I have found other post on the web that say they are a direct fit
Well what is it?
axial has a 74mm short side and a 104.5 long side

What are the length of the E10 axels?
 
my bad....looks like the fronts are both 74mm and the rears are both longer 104.4mm

does anybody have the length for the E10?
 
Axial shafts are not too long. They are shorter due to some lockers requiring a pin through the centre. The hsp shafts are longer and touch in the centre. Fit axial shafts and an axial locker and it should be a direct swap.
 
I thought the redcat had 2 different lengths...and thats why the axial had to be trimmed.
so there is no trimming of the flat spot to make it longer on the axial shafts?

I plan on spending $6 on the axial diff cases and $22 on some hot bodies CVD's when needed.
 
the redcat/hsp shafts are fatter than axial so when you use an axial locker you have to file the shafts down to fit the slot. If you use 3racing lockers like I did they require a steel pin through the centre which means you have to shorten the shafts. If you use an axial locker and axial shafts you won't need to do anything. If you cut the centre plastic post out of your stock diff housing you can then just pop in an axial locker.
 
Here is mine with 3racing locker. Note the pin. If you use the axial branded locker it's stronger and doesn't require the pin.

 
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