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A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler

I want rear steering on my E10. What is the cheapest way to hook up rear steer? Servo Y adapter or can I use the 3rd channel on my FlySky GTB3 as a full left/center/ full right toggle without hacking it?
 
I want rear steering on my E10. What is the cheapest way to hook up rear steer? Servo Y adapter or can I use the 3rd channel on my FlySky GTB3 as a full left/center/ full right toggle without hacking it?

No the 3rd channel switch will not work unless hacked. it is only a 2 position switch.
 
Just installed a 35T Rc4wd motor in my Redcat.. just enough to make a nice difference in speed. Can pop wheelies now but still has good crawl response and torque.
Will most likely be installing the Axial lockers.. plastic diffs won't last long.
 
No the 3rd channel switch will not work unless hacked. it is only a 2 position switch.
Thanks for the info. I have and old Hitec Agressor CRX with a 1st gen Spektrum pro module I might be able to use. I just read the manual and the 3rd channel can be changed from shift to linear! :)
 
I have been slowly replacing the stock screws with the ebay stainless kit in my spare time. I tried to finish it tonight but had to cut it short. I have several unnecessary left over screws but short nine 3mm lock nuts. I just informed the seller so we shall see if he makes it right. There were no exact length match screws for the lower pumpkin screws or the upper inner link screws. Had to use a longer screw than stock. I will cut them off with my dremel. :x
Buyer beware!
Redcat Everest 1 10 Crawler Stainless Steel Hex Head Screw Kit 175 Pcs | eBay
 
The seller is sending the missing nuts out today. He claims nobody has complained before. Last night I stripped out the motor pinion set screw. I am replacing it with a Robinson 1014.
 
As a warning, STAY AWAY from hobbyease.com I ordered my aluminum connect boxes from them, they took quite a while to get to me and when they did, one had 3 stripped screws. Not the end of the world but I did contact them about it. They refuse to help and just decided to ignore me. Terrible customer service, i'll never order from them again.
 
Anyway, what do you guys think. Stock motor with a 17 tooth pinion or an Axial 27 turn motor with the stock 14 tooth pinion? Or a mix of the mentioned components?
 
27T or even a 35T,but the stocker needs to go away! I've run both the 27 and 35 in mine with 14 tooth pinion and they worked great. I've dropped down to 1.9 tires and I'm now running a 20T motor and it's awesome!
 
Yep I put the 27t in with the 14t pinion and it's a lot better. Not fast by any means but i'm not looking for fast. if I want a little more speed I can always go with the 17t pinion. So far i'm happy, we'll see how it does on the rocks tomorrow afternoon.


On a side note, the stock motor seems to be perfect for my motor lathe. Allows me to use a 6 cell pack with the high turn motor rather than a 4 cell pack with a low turn motor. Just makes things easier.
 
As a warning, STAY AWAY from hobbyease.com I ordered my aluminum connect boxes from them, they took quite a while to get to me and when they did, one had 3 stripped screws. Not the end of the world but I did contact them about it. They refuse to help and just decided to ignore me. Terrible customer service, i'll never order from them again.
That is the risk you take with overseas sellers. 2 weeks is the minimum estimated delivery time from China or HK. I got mine from Helipal in a little over 1 week. The package could be shipped out quickly but get hung up in customs for a while.
I prefer to buy my overseas items on ebay because your protected. I've had to file a few claims and won. Once I had got a refund from ebay after the expected time frame had well passed. A week later it showed up and I was never charged. :lmao:
 
OK so I broke in my Axial 27 turn motor and installed it the other night using the OEM 14T pinion. Night and day, thing is a beast. The added wheel speed is very welcomed and really helps. One thing I see failing very quickly is the upper link mount that's held to the rear diff with 2 screws. When loaded up that rear axle housing twists pretty nasty which flexes the plastic mount pretty badly. Very simple solution would be to get an original aluminum servo mount like used on the front axle. That would bolt on directly and tie the rear upper link mount into the housing just like up front. I'm going to make one since I have some flat aluminum but if you don't, OEM mounts are only about 5 bucks on ebay.
 
I want to stiffen the chassis at the shock mounts. The rear could be tied together with 3mm threaded tube but the battery is in the way on the front. So I see these AX10 braces and wonder if they will fit in between the E10 chassis plates? There are no length specs. It would be perfect to clear the battery if its the right length. My upper shock ends are mounted outboard.
Dynamite DYN8053 Lateral Chassis Brace Shock Mount Axial AX10 | eBay
 
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