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3D Printers and Printing

I figured it out, the old switch on the Tevo is suppose to be a 1A 125V and the replacement ones I bought are 5A 125V that's why they are bigger, so I ordered some of the correct size switches, I own a new Ender 3 Pro and it came with the wiring bundle lose with no tie wraps, and tried to print on it and it needs some sort of cable management cause the wires get easily snagged, that's why I bought the Tevo so I could print a cable chain that is like 15 or 16 links and want to print them all at once instead of few at a time on my small printer, the plan is getting the Tevo working then get the Ender working and eventually use the small one too
 
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Right now I am taking a break from my TRX4 Tonka project and working on one of my trailers. For a home-made trailer it was built very well (don't know who built it), but it REALLY needs fenders and a toolbox. So I found files on Thingiverse that were very close to the shapes I wanted, and scaled them up in Simplify 3D.

I am going to get everything mocked up, then paint the trailer a gun-metal grey, and install everything.

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

One thing I have been looking for... A case for the Castle Link, I can't seem to be able to find a STL file for one. There is a company that sells cases that are 3D printed, and they are not bad, but I would much rather print my own.
 
I am taking a few days off and going to see how much I can learn in Fusion 360. Thingiverse has been great, but I am getting to the point where I can't find the things I am specifically looking for.

So far, most of what I have printed off has needed very little finish work. I do want to learn how to clean up and paint my prints, so I printed off some scale accessories. This is where scale perspective matters. Initially when I brought the models into Simplify3D, the chain saw was about two feet long. I scaled it down to about 20%, but it is just a little too big, and I think going to 15% would have been better. The ice chest is a little large, but not terrible, and I think the tanks are spot on. The battery and tool box are way too large and should have been taken down to at least 50%.

All by them selves they don't look bad...
Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Sitting next to my TRX4, you can see what is out of perspective. The battery and tool box are next to the tire, they got a little washed out in the photo...
Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr
 
I am taking a few days off and going to see how much I can learn in Fusion 360. Thingiverse has been great, but I am getting to the point where I can't find the things I am specifically looking for.

So far, most of what I have printed off has needed very little finish work. I do want to learn how to clean up and paint my prints, so I printed off some scale accessories. This is where scale perspective matters. Initially when I brought the models into Simplify3D, the chain saw was about two feet long. I scaled it down to about 20%, but it is just a little too big, and I think going to 15% would have been better. The ice chest is a little large, but not terrible, and I think the tanks are spot on. The battery and tool box are way too large and should have been taken down to at least 50%.

All by them selves they don't look bad...
Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Sitting next to my TRX4, you can see what is out of perspective. The battery and tool box are next to the tire, they got a little washed out in the photo...
Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr
To learn fusion 360 this is my advice: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL40d7srwyc_NopbOnJ4IARIvSrTT1pp5m



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Excellent tutorial, I am still watching his videos!!!

Here is another series I found very useful...

https://www.youtube.com/user/TheKHaug/videos

I took a week off of work and dedicated a good chunk of the time to learning Fusion 360. I am spending an hour or so each night playing the videos and following along.

The fruits of my labors have paid off, and I have made my second functional part.

I have a few of these small winch anchors, they work well, but they don't come with any kind of mounting system.

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Not liking it just dangling off of my TRX4, I fabbed up a bracket out of aluminum. Using a Traxxas body post allows the anchor to be held in with a body clip, but is easy to get in and out.

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

I don't think it looks horrible, but more than looks, it is functional. I wanted one of these for each of my anchors, but bending up the aluminum took me a bit to get right; I tried making a second one and after two hours found out my template was a little off and the winch did not fit. Wanting to make the process faster and repeatable, I drew what I wanted up on Fusion and printed it out.

This being my second custom 3D build, creating the part in Fusion and printing it out, I am pretty pleased with how it turned out. Sure, it is simple, but this is making learning the whole process a lot more fun and really what I wanted out of getting a 3D printer.

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr
 
I am still learning Fusion, I am working through two different video series on it, following along in Fusion. It is just a biotch trying to remember the little tricks and techniques these guys use. I have learned one of the most important things to learn in Fusion is how to use the timeline to undo your mistakes. Albeit simple, I am getting results out of it. I have had an idea of what I wanted for a solder stand, but haven't been able to find one (even on Thingiverse) that has been quite right. I modeled one up in Fusion that comes really close.

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

I did get the hole size needed for the solder sucker wrong, I fixed in it Fusion. Wish I would have caught that sooner, that stand is a 17 hour print and uses a lot of filament. I guess that old carpenter's adage comes in to play here, measure twice and cut once; or, in this case, measure twice and print once. I also had to adjust and print out the spool holder, the first one I made was way too big and would not go through the solder spools.

Two more projects I am going to take on... The first is to make ramps for my trailer, and second to make custom tool holders for my workbench tool caddy...
Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr
 
Looking good Greatscott!

I've also found that the basic designs on Thingiverse are often lacking and its easier to just design my own versions.

One thing I'll do every once and a while to check sizing or hole spacing is make up a print thats just a small cross section of the part in question. This way I can print and revise it much quicker with less waste.
 
Looking good Greatscott!

I've also found that the basic designs on Thingiverse are often lacking and its easier to just design my own versions.

One thing I'll do every once and a while to check sizing or hole spacing is make up a print thats just a small cross section of the part in question. This way I can print and revise it much quicker with less waste.

I have started doing this, it is worth 15 minutes of print time to make sure a 17 hour print isn't ruined.

Well, I think I am ready to call my trailer project done. I did go backwards a couple of steps trying to figure out Fusion 360 after they rearrange the interface, but I am figuring it out.

I got the ramps and the jack built.

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

It took me a couple of times to get the ramps the way I wanted them. One of the key skills I am lacking in Fusion is how to do assemblies, that would have helped to get the parts right the first time, or the second, or the third...

The jack worked out better than I thought it would. My first through was to print threads into the jack base and print out a jack screw with a handle. The base worked out ok, but the jack screw was trickier than I thought it would be. For strength's sake, I printed out the jack screw laying down, but the threads came out horribly, and totally unusable. The second attempt I printed the jack screw vertically and the threads came out prefect, but the jack screw snapped with just a little bit of resistance (8mm with 100% infill PLA). So, I decided to inlay two 6mm hex nuts into the base and use a 100mm chunk of all-thread. After that turned out good I made a foot and handle and put the whole mess together. Overall I like how it turned out, but I am thinking about taking about 15mm off of the all-thread...

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Here it is mounted together with three hex bolts. The upper and lower jack base plates sandwich the frame, holding it in place.

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Next up... Going to make some tool organization, then hopefully the frame rails for my 6x6 come in and I'll start work on that.
 
I am finding that it is not a lack of 3D projects holding me back, its settling down and concentrating on just one of them.

I have a Hobbywing programmer the doubles as a really good lipo checker. I sold the RC that it came with, and the guy wasn't interested in the programmer, so I use it for my lipos. I like it, but it can get a little unwieldy, and keeping it straight so I can read the cell values can get annoying...

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

So, I built a stand for it...

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

It is now a lot easier to use, I connect up the battery and the balance cable isn't trying to push the checker all over the workbench.

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

But, as I am posting this, I realized I messed up on the design. I should have designed in a way for it to hang on my pegboard. Well, back to Fusion 360 for a revision...
 
Prusa just Announced their new Mini, its a little smaller and a lot less expensive. It may be a good printer to start with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipulB4_Xdm8

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ipulB4_Xdm8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Prusa just Announced their new Mini, its a little smaller and a lot less expensive. It may be a good printer to start with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipulB4_Xdm8

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ipulB4_Xdm8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Damn, you are evil...

My CR10 is cranking along and going a good job. But, I have been toying with the idea of getting another printer with a smaller build volume.
 
Damn, you are evil...

I try :twisted:

It would be nice to have a small printer to keep projects moving along while the larger printer is tied up on day long prints. I dont think I could justify a second printer at the moment though.

I know Soze was toying with the idea of getting a Prusa, the lower price point might make the mini a good option.
 
Sadly, I have discovered that having a 3D printer is just like having a RC, there lots of upgrades you can do, and you always want another... Prusa just came out with their Mini, I'll likely pick this one up soon.

The absolute coolest thing about all of this is thinking about a part you want to build, designing it on the computer, then seeing the printer spit it out. Moreover, seeing it actually work like you wanted it to.

I really like my Spektrum gear, and my DX5R is my main radio, but the 'Knob' control is almost useless. I am getting rear-steering installed on my Bomber, so I made that control a bit more useful...

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

I have also designed my own spare tire mounts, just waiting for my wheels to arrive so I can actually mount one of these on my TRX6...

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr
 
Sadly, I have discovered that having a 3D printer is just like having a RC, there lots of upgrades you can do, and you always want another... Prusa just came out with their Mini, I'll likely pick this one up soon.

The absolute coolest thing about all of this is thinking about a part you want to build, designing it on the computer, then seeing the printer spit it out. Moreover, seeing it actually work like you wanted it to.

I really like my Spektrum gear, and my DX5R is my main radio, but the 'Knob' control is almost useless. I am getting rear-steering installed on my Bomber, so I made that control a bit more useful...

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

I have also designed my own spare tire mounts, just waiting for my wheels to arrive so I can actually mount one of these on my TRX6...

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr
I like that spare tire mount

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
I like that spare tire mount

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

That mount uses a 4mm bolt with a wingnut, with a spacer. I'll likely mount the first one on my TRX6, but I am not quite sure of where, it will either be in the bed or off of the tail gate.

The basic parts that are needed...

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Kind of how it would look mounted up...

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

With the tire...
Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

If a wingnut is not used, then the spacer is not needed. I am working on support plates for backing the mount on the inside of the body.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3938773
 
Although I don’t have a 3d printer a certain elf told me that I’m getting a creality ender 3 pro printer on Christmas!

As soon as I get it figured out There’s a few bodies I want to prints off scale3drc and I’ll be designing my own mounts for them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Although I don’t have a 3d printer a certain elf told me that I’m getting a creality ender 3 pro printer on Christmas!

As soon as I get it figured out There’s a few bodies I want to prints off scale3drc and I’ll be designing my own mounts for them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Schweet!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
For my latest project I decided to make a phone mount for my DX5R. It took me a day's worth for staring at my radio to figure out where I wanted to install the mount. One of the key things I wanted to design into this mount is for it to be easily installed and removed. I went through the front plate, it is held on top with a lip, and one screw on the bottom, and it seems to be up to the task of securely holding the radio. There is a tiny pain-in-the-butt ribbon cable that I had to disconnect for this mod, took me about 30 minutes to get it reconnected.

I designed the two mounts and the backing plate in Fusion 360. I am also using a Go-Pro camera mount, a 1/4-20 I-bolt, a 1/4-20 nylock nut, 3mm thread inserts, and two 3x10mm screws. Also, I used a Go-Pro compatible iPhone mount I designed for my phone a while back.

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

3mm brass inserts were put into the backing plate, and the plate was glued on to the back side of the radio's front plate. Two holes were drilled into the plate.

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

And, here is a video I shot with it. It is kind of long (6 minutes), but shows the video captured with this mount. As you can see from the video, I need to get better at holding the radio in the right position to keep the truck in frame.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXMHd0sBPYU&t=4s
 
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