3D Printers and Printing

[c0bra]

Sorry if this has been answered before, but what 3d design software are you guys using? I’ve used tinkercad in the past but I am planning a build that will be quite time consuming with the design and prototype phase so I want to use a better program.

I’ve heard of people using fusion360 but I’m wondering if there is any others.

By the way I have only tinkercad 3d design experience and have experience in autocad electrical


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[Greatscott]

Just Fusion 360. It is very easy to learn, the free version is very powerful, and it is free for us hobbyist.

 

[Voodoobrew]

I don't think there is anything better then fusion 360. Took me a few hours to learn watching YouTube. If you already know tinker ad it should be fairly quick to learn. Mostly the sketch environment is new.

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[Greatscott]

Thinking about making the switch from PLA to PETG...

Other them temps, anything needed to change to make the switch (stock CR10)

Sorry if this has been answered before, but what 3d design software are you guys using? I’ve used tinkercad in the past but I am planning a build that will be quite time consuming with the design and prototype phase so I want to use a better program.

I’ve heard of people using fusion360 but I’m wondering if there is any others.

By the way I have only tinkercad 3d design experience and have experience in autocad electrical


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't think there is anything better then fusion 360. Took me a few hours to learn watching YouTube. If you already know tinker ad it should be fairly quick to learn. Mostly the sketch environment is new.

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The only thing to keep in mind when using YouTube to learn Fusion 360... A couple of months ago they changed Fusion's UI, so tutorials made before this switch will show the older UI. Overall, the parts and pieces are the same, but it might be a little confusing.

 

[BUBBA069]

Thinking about making the switch from PLA to PETG...

Other them temps, anything needed to change to make the switch (stock CR10)

Retraction settings will need to be adjusted. Take the time and run some benchies to get it dialed in.

edit: If running cheap PTFE tube, make the switch to Capricorn tube. PETG prints up around 240, PTFE off gases at 245. The Capricorn handles higher temps.

 

[JacktheRipper]

General question regarding the quality, what I see have a ruff or grainy finish. To me requires some real time spent prepping for paint. What is the major factor that influences the end results of the printed piece ?

pep

 

[BUBBA069]

print resolution. Lower the layer height/smaller nozzle, less sanding but longer print time. Printing a helmet with a .6 nozzle at .4 layers will be less than a day, .4 nozzle at .12, could be north of 70 hours.

Its finding the balance of nozzle size and layer height.

 

[Poconoscale]

Thinking about making the switch from PLA to PETG...

Why?


I routinely print in PETG, but found that PLA plus/PLA pro is super useful as a in between PETG and PLA. In fact pla may never be in my house again.



If you dont know what PLA plus is, it is a mix of pla and tpu. Prints like pla but is a tough as TPU. It has none of the pla brittleness and has just enough give that it makes great bodies and bumpers. It will warp, at higher temperature the pla, but lower then PETG.

 

[JacktheRipper]

print resolution. Lower the layer height/smaller nozzle, less sanding but longer print time. Printing a helmet with a .6 nozzle at .4 layers will be less than a day, .4 nozzle at .12, could be north of 70 hours.

Its finding the balance of nozzle size and layer height.

Thanks for clarification, I sort of though it would be something along those lines.
"thumbsup"



pep

 

[c0bra]

I’m having issues getting my slicer setting to work right. I tried printing at 190 and kept having an issue were there printed filament wouldn’t stick to the print bed so i raises the temp to 200 and I am still having the same issue. Any suggestions?

Printer is a creality ender 3 pro with the print bed at 65 and using creality black filament.


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[GA Dawg]

Your nozzle is way too far from the bed. There is no squish at all.

 

[HumboldtEF]

I'm not familiar with the Ender printers but with the Prusa MK3 this would be dialed in using the first layer calibration. You basically want to lower the hot end until you get the right amount of squish as GA Dawg mentioned. Getting this right will allow the print to stick properly.

 

[Greatscott]

Your nozzle is way too far from the bed. There is no squish at all.

That is what I think as well. The first layer is nice and round, which isn't want you want.

 

[c0bra]

I rechecked the print bed to make sure it was level and adjusted it a bit so it’s even closer. I also tried thicker and thicker first layers with no luck!

I downloaded cura and without even changing any settings, it was near perfect!


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[Greatscott]

I rechecked the print bed to make sure it was level and adjusted it a bit so it’s even closer. I also tried thicker and thicker first layers with no luck!

I downloaded cura and without even changing any settings, it was near perfect!


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What are you using to check first layer height? For my CR10, they recommended a normal piece of notebook paper; there should be friction between the nozzle and the paper, but you should still be able to slide the paper around with not much difficulty.

 

[GA Dawg]

I don't see how that is a slicer problem unless your old slicer was adding some sort of Z-axis offset.

 

[QuesoDelDiablo]

I would almost guarantee that it's not a slicer issue. I agree with everyone, the issue is the Z height. Not necessarily levelling, not necessarily calibration, it is the Z height and the relationship of the nozzle to the print bed.

 

[c0bra]

When I set the height for the nozzle I used a piece of notebook paper and set it so the paper was touching but the nozzle could slide over it without getting bound up. After that I used a level to make sure it was all level.

I’ll check slicer to see if I put a z-axis offset. I’ll retry slicer on the next print once this one is finished.


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[GA Dawg]

There is no reason to use a level. That's not what bed leveling is. You want the nozzle to be a uniform distance from the bed at all points of the build plate (As much as you can. Not all build plates are perfectly flat). In reality, you are tramming the bed, not leveling it.

 

[Greatscott]

When I set the height for the nozzle I used a piece of notebook paper and set it so the paper was touching but the nozzle could slide over it without getting bound up. After that I used a level to make sure it was all level.

I’ll check slicer to see if I put a z-axis offset. I’ll retry slicer on the next print once this one is finished.


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Have you tried another file on the printer?

On a completely different topic, yet 3D printing related... Thingiverse....

Maybe is it the delight of sharing what I have made, perhaps it is my geek ego, but I like going into the analytics on Thingiverse and seeing if my stuff has been viewed and downloaded. Anyone else look at this too?