1/6 Wraith/Nylint TJ Jeep + scale quad

[Mike Flea]

Rear is longer because it protects the yolk on the leading end of the pumpkin?

 

[kgb424]

Do you have make modifications too the axles so the Boom Racing Tubes fit ??

Are those normal Wraith aluminium rear lockouts and normal C-hubs and normal knuckles ??

Or do you need different rear lockouts and C-hubs and knuckles that are bigger on the inside cause of the Boom Racing tubes ??

Cause I have STRC aluminum rear lockouts and aluminum C-hubs and aluminum knuckles

On both of My Wraiths and are curious how they install and if I would need different ones ??

They don't look like they have the flange like Beef Tubes have and you got to use the ring spacer

like the XR10 axles that have been tubed

 

[TacoCrawler]

Rear is longer because it protects the yolk on the leading end of the pumpkin?

would be my guess...
although I'll bet one could use the front design
on either Fr/Rr and would fit/function acceptably.

I believe the primary reason for their different designs
was to add impact absorption/strength to the forward side of each center chunk.
As the trailing end of the skid is normally less critical...

^ unless maybe one backs up at 20mph !? Lol ~ I dunno ~

Do you have make modifications too the axles so the Boom Racing Tubes fit ??

Nope, they slide right in... somewhat tightly as they seat
The two horizontal screws securing the lower link/shock mounts
purdy much align the tube for the outer end screw holes.
Those screws are the purpose of the horizontal grooves cut into the tube(s).

Are those normal Wraith aluminium rear lockouts and normal C-hubs and normal knuckles ??

The XR10 Chubs/Sknuckles I'm using are designed to fit the AR60 axle
and replicate the Wraith's original plastic Chubs/Sknuckles.
But were sold/designed to fit the XR10 crawler.
However the correct Wraith lockouts need be utilized
as the XR10 rear lockouts will not fit the AR60 properly.

Or do you need different rear lockouts and C-hubs and knuckles that are bigger on the inside cause of the Boom Racing tubes ??

no, you could use the plastic lock outs...
But one of the reasons for adding the steel tubes...
is so that the two screws retaining the lockout/Chubs...
thread into the inner tube's metal... and not just into the axle's plastic.

Cause I have STRC aluminum rear lockouts and aluminum C-hubs and aluminum knuckles
On both of My Wraiths and are curious how they install and if I would need different ones ??

I would believe yours should fit just fine. *

They don't look like they have the flange like Beef Tubes have and you got to use the ring spacer

like the XR10 axles that have been tubed

These are AR60's... not the XR10 axles (not the same width)
The flange you might see for the XR10 or others
will widen the axle's WMS.
And is not something I needed nor wanted for my set up.



* --- Installing the rear ---

These install basically the same way as the std "Beef Tubes" designed/mfgr'd sleeves would.

However... they do require some changes that are not included in the bag.

1. The single upper link mount/truss screw is too long
and these inner tubes were not drilled /or clearance for that particular screw :roll:
So either a shorter screw need be utilized...
or the inner tube needs be drilled/tapped or minimally grooved for additional clearance.
I'd wish mine were drilled/tapped for that particular screw.
But realize other brands don't offer this either... 'least that I saw.

2. Both the previous screw and the 4 screws holding the lower link/shock mounts,
need be screwed out (removed) in order to pull the axle shaft(s) out.
Well at least when utilizing the original rear Axial axle shafts.

3. The axle shaft's inner flange ring must be ground down slightly
in order for it to slide into/thru the inner steel tube.
I don't know if this is the same deal with the front Universal shafts
at this point, as I have not done the fronts as of yet.

4. The four outer Chub securing screws for plastic need be replaced
with machined screws to thread thru the plastic and into the metal tube's threading.
And so be sure of what size if screws are included.
3 X 6mm I think is what I used.

5. I also had to put three thin washers between the outer bearing
and the outer axle shaft shank to eliminate some horizontal axle shaft end play.
Thus basically pushing the bearing outward a mm or so.
I still have a slight lateral end play on one side.
May have something to do about the cheapo chinese lockouts
that I have used. They seem a little off.
Possibly not an issue with other mfgr's lockouts !?
It's also a possibility the the alloy hex do not fit the same
on the stub axle(s) and will need figure out that inconsistency.
^ so yeah... not really a direct bolt on using my approach
as there were some additional altercations required for my particular install.

my final thought... I'm not real pleased with the fitment
of my low$ chinese lockout(s)
and will likely end up purchasing better fitting/quality lockout's shortly.

--------

* --- Installing the front ---

Got the front axle completed today.
was easier then the rear, requiring less effort.
Tolerances and final fitment was better then the rear axle.

notes are below...

1. The upper screw that secures the truss to the axle is too long
and needs be about 4mm long if just threading into just the plastic.
The 2 underside screws plugging holes will also need be shortened to 4mm.

2. The 4 outer screws securing the Chub(s) to the axle
need be swapped out to a machine thread screw about 6mm long.

3. The universal's will likely require some shimming (thin washers)
to ensure that there is minimal lateral end play at the stub axle end.
I put one shim on each uni... but I have to redo those
because they need another shim added to each side.

4. The Axial universal shafts fit inside/thru the inner tubing without issue
because there is no rib/ring on the axle's inner shaft.
However... the lower shock mount/screws and the single upper at the truss
still need be removed in order to slide the inner tubes, into the axle housing.

in order to press in the insert tubes...
these two screws must be removed on this side...

the other end of the axle requires 4 screws removed...
the two from the lower link mount, a single atop the truss
that threads into the axle tube and a single plug on the tubes underside.
If not done... the insert tubes will not slide in properly.
The truss screw and underside plug screw will need be shortened to 4mm
or they will hit the insert prior to seating.


Insert tubes already pressed in and aligned
I used the handle of my driver to press the insert in fully
Used another driver to ensure the alignment was correct.



Then the two horizontal screws are reinserted securing the tube's alignment.
The driver aligning the Chub holes is withdrawn at this point.
A single bearing resides at the end of the axle/insert.
Then the axle is inserted thru to engage the locker, then the Chub is secured.
You may have to turn the axle slightly as you push the Chub on.


will add more pictures when I pull these apart for further adjustment

 

[kgb424]

Let me ask you this

Do the tubes keep the axles shafts from bending

Cause I think mine are bent now or its the wheels not balanced

I have seen people out where I go crawl some times

Jumping there Wraiths and bending the axles pretty easy

 

[TacoCrawler]

Let me ask you this

Do the tubes keep the axles shafts from bending

Cause I think mine are bent now or its the wheels not balanced

I have seen people out where I go crawl some times

Jumping there Wraiths and bending the axles pretty easy

yes they stiffen/strengthen the axle tubes.

more probable your tires/wheels are unbalanced
could also be hub screw tightness/inconsistency if using the plastic idf stuff

I run the "BeefTubes" inside my scx-10 axle(s)

I choose this over purchasing expensive alloy axle housings.
The original plastic housings are inexpensive to replace.
Plastic slides better then most aluminum creations
But adding axle strength is primarily why these tubes exist.

For my circumstance...
the std "BeefTubes" were out of stock when I wanted to order.
I waited for a period... but became impatient
so that is why I purchased the Boom Racing Kronik tubes instead.

The Boom Racing mfgr claims the Kronik's are made of S.S.
look like they might be... but gotta look closer to be sure.
But if ya don't mind waiting a little while for the slow shipment
these Kronik tubes can be had for half the cost of the "BeefTubes"

I do know the "BeefTubes" in my SCX-10 are not mfgr'd using S.S.
and I don't believe they offer them in that material.
But ya will receive your purchase promptly.

I really don't care as long as they're steel...
as I don't submerged too often anyways.
and a little rust is no biggie if ya do some maintenance on occasion.

 

[kgb424]

Hey Taco

I got something for you for

I found 2 sets of these Hot Racing diff covers, that I'm not using them and where in my parts pile

For the Wraith axles and will give you a set

Cause I bought 2 sets of the thick aluminum Poison Spider diff covers for Wraith

and don't need the HR ones

 

[TacoCrawler]

Hey Taco

I got something for you for

I found 2 sets of these Hot Racing diff covers, that I'm not using them and where in my parts pile

For the Wraith axles and will give you a set

Cause I bought 2 sets of the thick aluminum Poison Spider diff covers for Wraith

and don't need the HR ones

kool thing D
wouldn't mind trying out those black HR covers.
My plastic covers are kinda chewed up.
and was thinking I needed find something cleaner on these axle(s)

thanks

 

[cmbscx10]

--- DMG AR60 skid plates ---

I like them a bunch...
well... 'cept maybe the bottom side button screw(s).

Not sure why that screw isn't counter sunk (!?)
But will likely do that when I find opportunity.

Very stout (steel) construction... simple two minute install !

notice the front and rear DMG skids do not share the same design

Taco,
I countersunk my DMG plates and used these Team Associated 2x0.4x6mm Flat Head Screw (8) [ASC4674] | Parts - AMain Performance Hobbies - AMain Performance Hobbies

Almost wore the plate out and could still get at the screw.

 

[kgb424]

Taco

The black ones are yours

Pm me I need your address so I mail the dif covers

 

[TacoCrawler]

Taco

The black ones are yours

Pm me I need your address so I mail the dif covers

"thumbsup"

Taco,
I countersunk my DMG plates and used these Team Associated 2x0.4x6mm Flat Head Screw ( [ASC4674] | Parts - AMain Performance Hobbies - AMain Performance Hobbies

Almost wore the plate out and could still get at the screw.

swell on the heads up for that tapered/flat head screw...

6mm is not too long ?

 

[cmbscx10]

swell on the heads up for that tapered/flat head screw...

6mm is not too long ?

Yes. My apologies for bad advice and not giving full detail. I knocked them down to 4mm so it wouldn't hit the Ring. 4mm just barely crests the inside of the case. I tried a few different screws (2-56,4-40, 2.5mm, 2mm Non Associated) and all the heads were to big. I wanted a shallow as possible counter sink and the Associated ones had the smallest.

 

[TacoCrawler]

Yes. My apologies for bad advice and not giving full detail. I knocked them down to 4mm so it wouldn't hit the Ring. 4mm just barely crests the inside of the case. I tried a few different screws (2-56,4-40, 2.5mm, 2mm Non Associated) and all the heads were to big. I wanted a shallow as possible counter sink and the Associated ones had the smallest.

kool... thanks for the clarification
even tho' I screwed up my quote of you.
Thanks for catching that 8)

 

[kgb424]

Now I now where you live !!

And some day I may come a calling !!

You have been warned !!

And we will do some Crawling !!

I will go to the post office, I got stamps but want to make sure its the right postage

 

[TacoCrawler]

Now I now where you live !!

And some day I may come a calling !!

You have been warned !!

And we will do some Crawling !!

I will go to the post office, I got stamps but want to make sure its the right postage

You knew where I lived before...
and did nothing then !?

...thanks brother "thumbsup"

 

[kgb424]

you wouldn't answer the door

you would be hiding

 

[TacoCrawler]

look back ^ pictures added to post #408

Got the axle insert tubes installed into the axle housing's.
as well installed the alloy Chubs/Sknuckles

Weren't too difficult to do, easier then the rear(s) actually
The completed axles feel/look more stout now "thumbsup"

I'll likely have them apart again shortly ( shim adj. )
And a bit of locktite everywhere.

so will probably take more detailed pictures during that process.

 

[TacoCrawler]

--- opinion wanted please ---

I'm painting my TJ body using plastic dip
Koi Orange is the specific color.

'ave my reasons for staying with that color.

The PD presents a semi flat surface sheen.
but a 4th coat of PD Metalizer/UV
will give more sheen to the orange or black PD

sooo... PD'ing the cage as well

Orange or Black ?

semi flat or with Metalizer coat ?

I personally feel that the cage should be painted to match the body
as that is how it would be off the assembly line...
But black might have a better color effect/contrast next to orange ?

so that's my dilemma

sooo... the more opinion the merrier
otherwise I'll need flip a coin

~ guess I can always just peel it off if I don't like the look/tho' still a hassle ~

 

[twissted]

Orange stands out.

 

[TacoCrawler]

Orange stands out.

...I already know it does

tho' I'm not really sure what yer referencing ?

What color cage... orange ? black ?

you say orange ?

--- opinion ---

Orange

2

Black

1

IDGAS

0
​

 

[Mike Flea]

Orange on body and cage "thumbsup"