1/6 Wraith/Nylint TJ Jeep + scale quad

[TacoCrawler]

Ya, I remember you mentioned the boatsides before, and that is a real good idea. I need to make a couple pumpkin plates/ guards for my axles, as they are taking a beating on the rocks.

I too need abrasion protection for my AR60's

already got my scx-10 axle's center chunk protected...
and the steel abrasion rings have stayed put since adhering them.
Proof is that I have not worn thru the axle's center chunk since installing them.



The D60's have more plastic thickness at the center chunk
so wear thru at center chunk is likely less critical.

Steel slides really well and is extremely durable.
plastic slides ok but grinds/wears thru prematurely...
soft alum. !? - meh, rock glue

Unfortunately the D60's are not as simple design as the scx-10 axle's center chunk(s).
so glue on abrasion rings for a D60 likely ain't gonna happen.


Sooo... maybe something more similar to the DMG design ?

 

[TacoCrawler]

So I killed two of my older Solar D772's
when swapping them into my 6th scale build.
Not sure what went wrong... but they were well over two years old.
One smoked... and the other just died

So out with the old... and in with the new !

But... another failure occurred with one of my new D772's !?
This time the output shaft does not engage the motor's drive as it should
and it can't steer the rig.
Guess I got a dud !?

So I installed the 2nd servo...
and so far it's working as it should.

Hopefully HobbyPartz will exchange the DOA dud for a working D772 servo.

And even tho' the D772 servo seems to have an sufficient amount of turning power...

I think for this 6th scale chassis...
I may choose to invest into a Hitec or something with more torque.
Just not sure I want to make that financial investment !?

 

[Mike Flea]

I know the big Hi-Tecs run around $150, so when I went to the lhs, the guy in there mentioned a Savox SA-1231S, 444oz, it was only $69, so I picked it up for the Jeep. Since I've added so many accessories plus Joe and Barbie, the weight is up to 14.5 lbs. It's a helluva lot more responsive than the Hi-Tec 645 that was on there, I'm happy with it! It's not waterproof, so I did the dielectric grease and conformal coating on it to protect from moisture.

 

[TacoCrawler]

^ was eyeballing the Savox 1230sg @ 500 oz

$ 69.00

might give it a shot

 

[kgb424]

So if you need higher torque steering servo, does that also mean you need a higher torque motor

And need to adjust your gearing and step up to 3s to make a 14.5 lbs Jeep crawl

I don't have a scale to measure my r/c's,

The post office kind of looks funny at you

When you use there scales to weight your r/c's

But have done it

 

[Mike Flea]

So if you need higher torque steering servo, does that also mean you need a higher torque motor

And need to adjust your gearing and step up to 3s to make a 14.5 lbs Jeep crawl

I don't have a scale to measure my r/c's,

The post office kind of looks funny at you

When you use there scales to weight your r/c's

But have done it

No, it crawls pretty good with the 35t Integy, but I picked up a 55t axial motor, to get a little more scale crawl out of it. I didn't do the divorced trans/ transfer on mine like so many others have on theirs, I have a stock locked scx10 transmission mounted on the center skid.

And to weigh the Jeep, I used a bathroom scale.:lmao:

 

[TacoCrawler]

...I've never cared to weigh my 6th scale

But ya could use one of those low buck fish weighing scales
sold at walmart and other sporting goods stores.

Just hook it on the frame somewhere, hang it
and read the simple scale.

No more USPS harassment necessary ;-)

IMO... 14lbs is not a lot...
unless it's only 1/18 scale :shock:

The stock Wraith 80/20 gearing has to go...
so if sticking with 48p
An 87t spur can be swapped for the 80t ( and retain the trans. cover )
Then start with a 16t pinion and go lower as needed.

I run a 55t mtr on 3s for my 6th scale
gearing changed to 87/16 48p

^ is high torque mtr. and offers a smooth throttle linearity.
Plus nets longer run time's per battery cycle
then other mtr's having less winds.
Utilizing 3s actually increases the run times as well.
But then having a 4-5K mah battery helps too.

For more top end/wheel speed (rpm)... 35t or 45t
But gearing even lower, for the lesser wind mtr's
might be a consideration.

or...

go with 6s and screw those measly 3s LiPo's :twisted:

Regardless... gearing selection will be dependent of which mtr. - turn/wind
is selected and run.

Think I'll lower my pinion down to a 14t and see if it nets more torque.
But it'll likely lose some top end and wheel speed in that process.

There's always gonna be some sort of trade off.

Meh... think I need move up to 4s or 6s
to net the torque/wheel speed that I want. :twisted: "thumbsup"

 

[TacoCrawler]

New Alloy/CF servo mount + new D772

8 screw hole mounts + carbon fiber servo plate.

best thing I ever bought from integy ! ?

ok... well maybe not.

I had to counter sink the CF plate screw holes on top
or the servo would not fit. ...figures :roll:

But that done...
this 8 screw servo mount is way better then the original.

Mine is currently soft mounted.
but I may change to hard mounting,
if I purchase the VP alloy horn plates.
^ but those are kinda pricey for what they are !? :evil:

Meh, first I'll see if this servo mounting method works/holds up !?

 

[kgb424]

Well there is your problem right there

Solar are cheap made china shitty servo's

I have burned a few of those up not even pushing them hard

why don't you pony up

you cheap prick

 

[TacoCrawler]

Well there is your problem right there

Solar are cheap made china shitty servo's

I have burned a few of those up not even pushing them hard

why don't you pony up

you cheap prick

Yeah I'll suppose the "Made in China" label is a dead giveaway !? Lol


1. All servo's are mfgr'd in china dummy :roll:

^ LiPo batteries too ( maybe 3 battery mfgr's in china )

2. I've burned up 2... likely my fault (poor mount design/excessive Str. throw)

^ nothing is forever fool.

3. I'm okay with inexpensive... so F you and that pony you ride

 

[kgb424]

Hey check this picture of your

Jeep with a total different power plant

its called Project Vitamin G

its on page 8 in the Large RC section

don't know how to leave a link

its bad ass

 

[TacoCrawler]

my local rc crawl club G2G

https://youtu.be/hmNSM7nAp4c


So both of my newly purchased Solar D772's were duds.

The first one was a fail immediately upon install.
The 2nd servo went 25' and the same failure occurred :evil:

Motor runs and drives...
but the output shaft spins free
as if the gears do not engage correctly.
Or in the case of my 2nd servo, not at all. grrr

hobbypartz is sending me two replacements...
But I thinking they too will fail. (tho' I'll hope not)

I had fairly good luck with my prior D772's
but obviously the quality has gone down hill...
or the original production line quality has degraded.

Guess I'll have to pony up for something else
if these replacements fail as well !? :evil:

------------------------

So I've had fairly good luck with the D772 of the past.
Was originally a great low budget/cost, high torque, metal geared servo.
( 418 oz/in of torque @ 7.4v )

But since it's previous production run(s)
HobbyPartz's production/assembly of that servo has changed.
and for the worse.

The issue is:

That the output shaft will not turn the tires
because the center gear cog is slipping/spinning on the gear wheel
and cannot drive the output shaft.
That particular gear is designed as a two piece.
compression fit or like.

I happened to have an older production D772 on hand...
and the cog gear pressed to center gear wheel stays tight.
The gear design is cut differently as is seen below.

So I swapped in the earlier production center gear
and the problem was cured.
Fit perfectly and works as it should.

I have two replacement D772's coming to replace
the recent two failed units that I purchased.
But I'm gonna guess they will have the same production fault !?

edit 01-15-2016
My Warranty replacement D772(s) included the newer C gear design.
I didn't bother testing them to see if they would hold.
and instead swapped them out with the C gear(s)
from my retired D772's.
~ I knew I kept them around for some reason ~ :wink:

Tech support at HobbyPartz was notified of the issue
and I offered a complete description of the fault.

Hopefully HobbyPartz corrects the issue promptly

Possibly the current prod. gear could be pressed tighter
and that might hold !?
But I haven't tried that as of yet...
as I thought I might damage the brass gear material
in my attempt.

besides... HobbyPartz needs to correct this problem
not me.


The pictures below portray
current prod. on the left, previous prod. on the right.

And the difference of which center gear it has...
will likely be the difference as to whether it works or not.
My 1st of two was a failure from the start.
The 2nd D772 went 25' before the gear spun free. grrr

I personally feel the new C gear looks of lesser quality
then what was internal to the D772 originally !? hmmm

 

[TacoCrawler]

Rocker skid plating

so I've bent them to shape
and thought to share that
before finalizing their install.

they will be painted black when finished.

I expect the 22ga will net a little thrashing
once I get a slammin' and slidin' off some rocks.

doing it this way, IMO
helps with the inner fender(s),
having a slightly more finished look.

But if that doesn't impress anyone...
then they will function as debris deflectors 8)

-------------

optionally I could install them above
the sliders...
But doing so would create more
possible under belly interference.

^ What say you !?

------------

pictures of course ! ;-)

note the orange coil spring splendor
it's like having color matched socks !? Lol

 

[Mike Flea]

Came out real nice, Dell, and I really like the orange springs "thumbsup"

 

[TacoCrawler]

^ thanks Mike... but it's not done yet :twisted:

I think I'm just gonna weld the plates to the sliders
But first need replace the button head screws
securing the frame to the C skid, as they strip too easily.

I've already replaced four button heads with the more stout cap screws.
But I ran out of spares in the size I need.
So will have to get those replaced before further weld up can occur.

I can reach and unscrew the cap screws at the lower frame rails
by simply removing the body.
And even a cheapo bondhus ball driver should get it done.

I think my mounting method will be both functional and simple to do.
plus, no exposed nuts/bolt heads to get ground up on the rocks.

 

[TacoCrawler]

Ignore the crappy quick spot welds...
guess I was in a hurry and the welder's
heat level was a little too hot.

I'll probably correct that later when I break out
the welder for some other project.
Hopefully the weld's will hold 'til then.

 

[Mike Flea]

They look fine, how many of your friends are going to pick the Jeep up and scrutinize your work?

 

[kgb424]

I would just cause I can

 

[TacoCrawler]

They look fine, how many of your friends are going to pick the Jeep up and scrutinize your work?

none... I have no friends.
And I could care less what acquaintances might think.

it's me... whom is not satisfied with my effort/result.

But hey... I probably won't correct it 'til it fails !?
guess I'm a little lazy about such things !? Lol

I would just cause I can

...shuddup fool

I'd probably step on yer neck...
but it's a long stride for my gait. Lol

if you were a thoroughbred horse ready at the gate...
I'd probably retract muh wager
and instead... put my money on a swayback mule

 

[twissted]

It ain't easy being cheesy!