1/6 Wraith/Nylint TJ Jeep + scale quad

[Mike Flea]

Ok, Dell, I got something for ya. On re-recycler.com, click Axial, go to Wraith and Ridgecrest axles and steering, they have a Integy aluminum offset link mount and aluminum servo plate and mounts for AR60 axle, #C24012, for $19.95. Ya, it's more than $18.52, but it comes with the aluminum offset link mount. Merry Christmas!


And Montana, when you shorten the shocks, you have to shorten the links as well. From what I can see, you need to change the mounting point of those front links on the frame, move them closer to the front axle, that would eliminate binding when you shorten the shocks. Also check out Bitter End's Scrap Metal build, yes it's a different Jeep than yours, but it's a MOA Jeep build

 

[montanahemi]

Ok, Dell, I got something for ya. On re-recycler.com, click Axial, go to Wraith and Ridgecrest axles and steering, they have a Integy aluminum offset link mount and aluminum servo plate and mounts for AR60 axle, #C24012, for $19.95. Ya, it's more than $18.52, but it comes with the aluminum offset link mount. Merry Christmas!


And Montana, when you shorten the shocks, you have to shorten the links as well. From what I can see, you need to change the mounting point of those front links on the frame, move them closer to the front axle, that would eliminate binding when you shorten the shocks. Also check out Bitter End's Scrap Metal build, yes it's a different Jeep than yours, but it's a MOA Jeep build

Nice! I'll give it a shot! Good idea, Thanks!

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[TacoCrawler]

Ok, Dell, I got something for ya. On re-recycler.com, click Axial, go to Wraith and Ridgecrest axles and steering, they have a Integy aluminum offset link mount and aluminum servo plate and mounts for AR60 axle, #C24012, for $19.95.

I thank you for the heads up "thumbsup"
but why would I need or want that ?

tho' the offset looks to be made of alloy...
I'd still be securing that onto a plastic axle !?

I do like the idea of more weight on the axle tho' ! hmmm

downside... it looks to be a single screw per mount at the lower plate
and I don't have a 3mm tap neither.

I hoped to purchase the servo mount(s) secured using 4 bolts at the lower plate... 'cause I soft mount my servo.

It's firmly mounted and moves very little when steering...
but mounting this way offers some impact absorption.

Might be easier on the cheap chinese metal gears too !? Lol

Not sure that I want a CF plate.
I might make my own metal plate...
using steel... 'cuz I have it laying around.
and it being heavier works for me.

 

[Mike Flea]

I looked at that piece again, maybe it is just a 1 screw mount on the plate, originally it looked like it had 2 screws holding each servo mount to the plate, probably better off to make your own if you have the material, definitely costs less

 

[TacoCrawler]

^ no worries

couldn't find another utilizing the two hole mount(s)

so I pony'd up for that ^ ebay/integy servo mount.

hopefully it'll be stronger then the original.

 

[TacoCrawler]

Nice! I'll give it a shot! Good idea, Thanks!

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...what Mike said
plus I'll add this...

Relocating the upper shock mount positions
to being more vertical with the lower mount(s)
will help in stabilizing the suspension's cycle/chassis return to neutral.

Angled (progressive) shock mounting tends to allow
for exaggerated/excessive articulation.
So tho' it may flex/articulate radically...
It does not articulate as a 1:1 would.

Excessive articulation does not look very scale like. IMO
Not implying that scale realism should be your goal... just sayin'

If the body/chassis flops to one side and stays like that
until the next suspension movement... (besides the progressive shock mounting)
it is likely there is some bind going on internally with the shocks.
Or possibly the oil viscosity is too thick or the piston holes too small or few.
Stiffer springs may counter act the situation...
But it doesn't mean the shocks/suspension is working as they should.

The suspension needs be set up so that the shocks
are compressed slightly at their static ride height setting.
Sooo... say 60/40 %

Meaning: At static ride height.
60% down travel (extension) is afforded.
and 40% up travel (compression) remains

I set up my rc crawler's suspension closer to 50/50

If it were mine...
I'd definitely lower the suspension and chassis.
It can be made to work well... if that attempt were made.
And doing so... would make it look more realistic as well.

--------------

Tho' not terrible...

Seeing your original orange body color show thru when the paint is marred/scarred...
is the primary reason I haven't painted mine.

what paint did you use ?

 

[montanahemi]

Re: 1/6 Wraith/Nylint TJ bodied Jeep + 1/6 atv quad

The cam is actually realtree ducktape, heated and stretched... thank you taco, when I tear it down next time I will have to do so, the whole truck weighs in at 23 pounds, and I have actual industrial springs from the hardware store. I can't find any stiffer springs, but when I do a tear down I will shorten the links and lower it. The body is the heavy part, and the only reason it used to flop. It doesn't really flop anymore, but I do like the idea of raising the three link where it's connected to chassis.

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[TacoCrawler]

Re: 1/6 Wraith/Nylint TJ bodied Jeep + 1/6 atv quad

but I do like the idea of raising the three link where it's connected to chassis.

what 3 link are you talking about ?

I count 4 susp. links front and rear !?
Am I missing something ?

tho' I'd lose that belly drop residing below the frame
and mount the links directly to the primary frame/chassis.

Currently it looks like a monster truck...
with tiny tires.

Both upper and lower suspension links rods should be positioned parallel to each other...
regardless of their separation (distance apart).

chassis mounted servo W panhard link (CMS) ?
Or is it a standard axle mounted servo (AMS) ?

 

[kgb424]

He is talking about the front has 3 links and the hard pan and a custom servo mount to take the servo off the axle

I personally do not like the hard pan and how it limits the travel of the front end

And with a custom servo mount, I think you need to use the hard pan

I prefer to mount the servo's on the axles and four link the front axle

And let her rock and roll with the terrain

with no binding, cause to me the hard pan

is a waste of travel and flex and just binds up

 

[TacoCrawler]

You must have visions of sugar plums and fruitcake on yer brain ? :shock:
or you have become fully dyslexic and there's little hope of recovery !? Lol

" hardpan " is a dense layer of soil
and has nothing to do with any discussion here.

sooo... in the voice of Yoda...
" ...funny, you are not. "

btw... who whistled yer tune anyways ? :roll:
You aren't the owner of the rig that was inquired about

While I would agree with you that panhard rods
tend to restrict suspension movement/articulation.

the word " hard pan " does not exist :???:

maybe yer thinking of a " hard on "
and your dyslexia causes you confusion !? :lmao:

 

[montanahemi]

Re: 1/6 Wraith/Nylint TJ bodied Jeep + 1/6 atv quad

I do not like the hard pan either, for the same reasons as kgb424 And yes, I would like some bigger tires, however I am finding them hard to find for a reasonable price. If anybody knows of any bigger than 40 series, I'd like a tread pattern like a flatiron or a swamper... It is a three link suspension setup (3 on chassis, and 4 on axle.) Servos are on the axles. (4ws) If I were going for a completely scale look, I would have to do alot more work. It was designed for functionality, not beauty. It is one of the most capable and universal crawling rig I've ever made, and if anybody has an opinion abt it, then I'd love to see their 1/5 or 1/6 scale crawler, and even hit the trails, mud, and rocks for a spell.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate all the advice and will be taking it all into accord when I do a complete teardown and rebuild for a scaler purpose, but I don't see that happening anytime soon.

Thanks for the awesome advice tho!!!

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[kgb424]

What do you think

I've been toking the Mistletoe

And your point is

It better than the Magic Dust

That Santa's been giving the reindeer to fly

you know

A little for the reindeer

A little for Santa Claus

A little more for Santa Claus

a little bit more for Santa Claus

Magic Dust my ass

Clearly the Man has a Coke problem !!!!

And You let him around your children sit on his lap, all coked up, talking to your kids about being good or bad !!!!

I'll Keep toking the Mistletoe

Cause the Flocking is a bitch too lite

 

[TacoCrawler]

Re: 1/6 Wraith/Nylint TJ bodied Jeep + 1/6 atv quad

I do not like the hard pan either, for the same reasons as kgb424 And yes, I would like some bigger tires, however I am finding them hard to find for a reasonable price. If anybody knows of any bigger than 40 series, I'd like a tread pattern like a flatiron or a swamper... It is a three link suspension setup (3 on chassis, and 4 on axle.) Servos are on the axles. (4ws) If I were going for a completely scale look, I would have to do alot more work. It was designed for functionality, not beauty. It is one of the most capable and universal crawling rig I've ever made, and if anybody has an opinion abt it, then I'd love to see their 1/5 or 1/6 scale crawler, and even hit the trails, mud, and rocks for a spell.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate all the advice and will be taking it all into accord when I do a complete teardown and rebuild for a scaler purpose, but I don't see that happening anytime soon.

Thanks for the awesome advice tho!!!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

^ another confused dyslexic soul !? Lol/jk
must be something in the air or the water !? :shock:

I know it's " har ping " but...

panhard bar

as far as a 40 series tire...
8.46" isn't tall enough ??
The rc4wd Rock Lox are similar to the SS tread pattern.

Rok Lox 40 Series 3.8" Comp Tires

how 'bout rc4wd's super tall 9.6" monster truck tires !? :twisted:

(KK2) Demolisher Monster Truck 40 Series 3.8" Tires

of course they won't be obtained utilizing a poor man's budget
'cause ya still gotta own some 3.8" wheels to mount them.
But I don't see anyone getting away without spending coin.

5.80" is the tallest SS I've found for the 2.2's
is what I'll go with when the bfg's wear out :|

btw... no one is saying to make your truck look more to scale...
The body already sports plenty of scale detail.

What was being offered here, was our opinion
on improving your suspension and chassis
so that it works both optimally and realistically.

But if you think it works and looks acceptable by your standards...
then whom are we to say and our opinions matter not.

Sorry to critique your rig.
But hey... you posted a picture of it in my build thread...
so one could only assume that it's open season !? Lol

Anyone wishing to critique my build... !?
...have at it ;-)

bet I don't gas. Lol


Regardless... it's yer toy to do with as you please
long as you're having fun with it... is all that matters 8)

 

[montanahemi]

Re: 1/6 Wraith/Nylint TJ bodied Jeep + 1/6 atv quad

^ another confused dyslexic soul !? Lol/jk
must be something in the air or the water !? :shock:

I know it's " har ping " but...

panhard bar

as far as a 40 series tire...
8.46" isn't tall enough ??
The rc4wd Rock Lox are similar to the SS tread pattern.

Rok Lox 40 Series 3.8" Comp Tires

how 'bout rc4wd's super tall 9.6" monster truck tires !? :twisted:

(KK2) Demolisher Monster Truck 40 Series 3.8" Tires

of course they won't be obtained utilizing a poor man's budget
'cause ya still gotta own some 3.8" wheels to mount them.
But I don't see anyone getting away without spending coin.

5.80" is the tallest SS I've found for the 2.2's
is what I'll go with when the bfg's wear out :|

btw... no one is saying to make your truck look more to scale...
The body already sports plenty of scale detail.

What was being offered here, was our opinion
on improving your suspension and chassis
so that it works both optimally and realistically.

But if you think it works and looks acceptable by your standards...
then whom are we to say and our opinions matter not.

Sorry to critique your rig.
But hey... you posted a picture of it in my build thread...
so one could only assume that it's open season !? Lol

Anyone wishing to critique my build... !?
...have at it ;-)

bet I don't gas. Lol


Regardless... it's yer toy to do with as you please
long as you're having fun with it... is all that matters 8)

Not at all taco, it was an invite to come crawl! I didn't take it offensively, and any advice is better than no advice. Nobody knows everything...

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[TacoCrawler]

Re: 1/6 Wraith/Nylint TJ bodied Jeep + 1/6 atv quad

Not at all taco, it was an invite to come crawl! I didn't take it offensively, and any advice is better than no advice. Nobody knows everything...

I'd be happy to bring my junk out and roll with anyone...
but I'm not driving hundreds of miles to do it.

Oregon is purdy much farther then I'd care to drive.

Isn't there a folder at the bottom of the forum page
for folk living in your area ?

 

[montanahemi]

Re: 1/6 Wraith/Nylint TJ bodied Jeep + 1/6 atv quad

I'd be happy to bring my junk out and roll with anyone...
but I not driving hundreds of miles to do it.

where's there ?


my all seeing mind... is blinded momentarily
and my google finger is broken

Lincoln city, or

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[TacoCrawler]

So someone viewing my videos pointed out
that seeing daylight thru the inner fender well's
was bad mo jo in the scale realism dept. !? Lol

So... for a budget fix...

placed some craft 6mm foam in the voids
that showed thru.
A little gorilla glue holds them in place.
tho' the front(s) are not glued in these pictures.

The sliders have not been plated yet.
But when that occurs...
the plating will also extend/bend upwards following the frame
creating inner fire walls adjacent to the interior.

I'll also likely add some more plastic dip spray paint
to some more area(s) under the body...
tho' most jeep tubs would show the same color paint
top or bottom I'd think ?

'lest maybe those rigs residing in the rust belt
requiring some type of undercoating ? ~ dunno ~

either way... I hope to retain some under body orange.
the bad tho' (further complaint) is that bright sunlight
tends to bleed thru the orange.
Black plastic dip sprayed would fix that.
so I may need do that eventually.

anyway... muh temporary budget solution...
and good enough for now ;-)

 

[Mike Flea]

Plating the sliders?, I thought the plan was to bend more rod to make an exo-cage (sort of) along the fenders to protect the plastic?, tie in to the bumpers/ stinger

 

[TacoCrawler]

Plating the sliders?, I thought the plan was to bend more rod to make an exo-cage (sort of) along the fenders to protect the plastic?, tie in to the bumpers/ stinger

sorry if I've confused anyone
Mike, you are correct.

But besides bending more rod to surround the wheel well's ext. perimeter(s)
and tying those into the slider(s)...

I will also be plating or sheeting the bottom sides
of the sliders, minimizing the likelihood of any hang up.
^ aka boatside(s) if that describes them better !?

That plate or sheeting will be bent upwards at both ends
to create a fire wall/inner fender of sorts.

I'll hope I'm describing my direction... so it's understood.

 

[Mike Flea]

Ya, I remember you mentioned the boatsides before, and that is a real good idea. I need to make a couple pumpkin plates/ guards for my axles, as they are taking a beating on the rocks.