1/6 Wraith/Nylint TJ Jeep + scale quad

[kgb424]

If it was a real dog it would run away by now,

My Russell's leave and come back, its the in between time, they terrorize my Neighbors, one or two of them have doggie doors and open garages with access to the house, they do a couple of hot laps around there living room, eat and drink theirs Dogs, food and water and are out, they have done it a few times

it's like they say how you doing as the run around being Russell's doing there thing

I don't see none of it, they don't say nothing, I just get the stares and it doesn't bother me, I hear about from my neighbor

So every once and while I turn them loose

do to the voodoo that they do

so well

it makes me laugh

and keeps them on their toes

 

[TacoCrawler]

What did you use to waterproof it?

it's just cotton duc cloth
I used Atsko silicone water-guard in spray can app.

I use it on my 1:1 nylon/canvas tents as well.
has never stained or left unwanted residue.

Works good for water shed...
tho' probably should be re-coated once every year.

If it was a real dog it would run away by now,

My Russell's leave and come back, its the in between time, they terrorize my Neighbors, one or two of them have doggie doors and open garages with access to the house, they do a couple of hot laps around there living room, eat and drink theirs Dogs, food and water and are out, they have done it a few times

it's like they say how you doing as the run around being Russell's doing there thing

I don't see none of it, they don't say nothing, I just get the stares and it doesn't bother me, I hear about from my neighbor

So every once and while I turn them loose

do to the voodoo that they do

so well

it makes me laugh

and keeps them on their toes

huh ? wtf do yer mutts have to do with my build ?

ya might wanna back off from the Oxy or that pipe yer holding

You said I should get a dog... so I got one.
It ain't no terrier so stfu already with yer dog love trippin'
or go expel your fantasy in 'dat chit chat folder carp.

 

[TacoCrawler]

so I had to get a new cellphone 'cause
muh 7 year old unit gave up the ship

the HTC they gave me for replacement
has way more bells and whistles then I'm used to.

but thought I should test out the 60fps movie option.
still trying to figure out how the cell camera/movie functions work


but at least it's not in muh backyard this time !? Lol

https://youtu.be/zCxeN4DfaB4

 

[Mike Flea]

That's some slow motion

 

[TacoCrawler]

Sliders fab'd up and welded to my custom chassis.

Simple design I know...
But I'm more interested in how they work, then how they look.

I'm using 1/4" solid, mild steel, rod for the sliders/armor.
And I like that the rods weld up easily to the chassis/itself.
without issue and looks fairly stout.

~ crappy indoor pictures...
but good enough for this start up ~



difficult to tell...
but there is a slight degree of kick up outward
from the frame to the lower rocker(s).
More visual if a picture were taken from an end view shot.
I'll take one later as I continue working on this.




The underside of the slider's will be skinned with 22 ga. sheet steel
to close off the void(s) and offer a better slide. (aka boatsides)
The skid sheets will also form the inner fender wells
adjacent to the fr/rr of the driver's interior.
A simple kick up at each end, of each skin, should do.

Now I'll make attempt at tying the sliders
into both the front/rear bumpers.
by adding side protection formed around the fender line(s).
Hence the reason the sliders are slightly wider at the rockers.

It is likely I will widen the wheel track slightly ( .600 )
so the tire's sidewall(s) will protrude outward a little more
and likely beyond the mounted sliders/armor outer surfaces.

Bending more rod may find me forking over some $$
towards an actual rod bender of sorts.
is getting old trying to bend/form by hand using only a vise/hammer

 

[Mike Flea]

It looks really good! "thumbsup"

Do a search for " jig for making bends in rod/tube", there's all kinds of ideas for making your own in the "Tools and Procedures" sub forum. I'm going to make one of these for myself!

 

[cmbscx10]

It looks really good! "thumbsup"

X2

I was going to weld mine to the frame but decided to make it one piece and bolt it to the frame in case they got really jacked up. Surprising how much they help but then again they did on my 1:1 Heeps too. The sheet metal holds my batteries for a lower COG.

My only suggestion would be to angle cut the ends F/R to follow the body lines and paint the outer bar Black so it breaks up the body lines.

 

[TacoCrawler]

^ thanks guys ! appreciate your comments.

So besides skinning the sliders.

I have issue with the body's plastic rocker(s) warping some.
I can heat them up and straighten them...
But eventually they just warp again.

So... think I'll try using some flat bar stock
and plate both sides of the lower rocker (sandwich), secured W bolts/nuts.
...so that the rocker(s) remain flat.

Problem is...
I can't find the right size of flat bar...
and didn't want to attempt to cut my own.
As the only tool I have for doing that is a cut-off wheel.
And I'm not likely good enough to cut them straight enough
nor equal to each other. -

So... any suggestions on whom might sell what I seek ?

1/16" X 1/4" rectangular steel flat bar.
^ or close to that ?

Could be any material that is rigid. ( SS, Alum., etc. )
Could even go with 1/8" X 1/4" if necessary.

If you might know of a good resource/vendor...
please link that up for me.

Neither Lowes or HD have what I'm looking for...
at least not without requiring cut work

thanks if ya know something 8)

 

[Mike Flea]

Not in that size, the smallest I've seen at the Depot was 1/16 thick x 1/2 wide steel flat stock, which is what I used for my rear bumper. We have a couple hobbyshops out here that specialize in model railroading only, I'll check them to see if they have anything thinner. Would 1/16 x 1/4 brass work, or would that be too soft?

 

[TacoCrawler]

Would 1/16 x 1/4 brass work, or would that be too soft?

...brass might be stiff enough !?
just gonna paint it and bolt it on (W backing plate).
I'd heat up the plastic rocker area prior to assembly.
Making it easier to sandwich/hold the rocker(s) flat.

trying not to add unnecessary weight to the body.
Joe still needs room for accessories and companionship !? :razz:

so that's why I'm not gonna plate the body's entire side panels.
^ but I had thought about doing that !?
but this guy

says no


:idea: I may peruse my local Salv. Army - goodwill...
see if I can find something I could dismantle and salvage.

My lhs sells train stuff too...
but I don't think their bar stock is up to par.
But I'll look there again, to be sure.
Maybe some of the arts/craft stores too.



if you find metal flat stock similar to my measurements... lmk

 

[Mike Flea]

oh yea, no problem, if I find something, I'll pm you, I can mail it out in a flat envelope. The local Hobbytown has some assorted metal stock, but because they cover all hobbies, they may not have specialty sizes that kitbashers use.

When my wife constructs buildings for our outdoor railroad, Hobbytown has the basic basswood pieces for model airplane construction, but not all the different sizes that a model railroader would use. For those, I go to the RR specific stores.

 

[TacoCrawler]

oh yea, no problem, if I find something, I'll pm you, I can mail it out in a flat envelope.

ok... and to clarify again... I need 4ea 8.25" L pcs.
either 1/16" - 1/8" thick X 1/4" wide.

^ the 1/8" stock probably would be stiffer.

 

[Mike Flea]

PM me your address

 

[kgb424]

Have you tried using a layer of Shoo Goo and drywall lathe tape

I usually do 2 coats of Shoo Goo and lathe tape

and it stiffens up kind like fiber glass and is way easier and way cheaper too

In the pictures is my Toyota Truggy Cab when I first got it

The previous owner cut the out the back for the spur gear

I mirrored the tranny and patched the hole

And it took more than 2 layers in the middle

and it looks better than a huge hole in the back of the cab

And I was not sure, not sure if I could of got the back off cleanly enough to replace the cab back

So I patched it, instead and painted the back of the cab flat black

your is going on the inside, so you might not need to paint it, I painted it to extra seal it

with the Truggy frame and the tool box its hidden

You might only need one layer to stiffen up the body

or make a slot or a opening that the edge of the body sits in

Kind of like the R2J Rubicon sliders that I had on my Jeep

I did not like, how the Lexan Jeep body flexed and would pop out of the groove

but with a stiffened hard body it should not flex or ripple and pop out of the Groove

So there is 2 ideas for you

 

[TacoCrawler]

Have you tried using a layer of Shoo Goo and drywall lathe tape

no... the issue is not stiffness
but straightening the rocker(s) that are already warped.

The high nylon content of this body
seems to cause the lower rocker(s) to return to being warped
even after being heated/clamped for straightening.

Not sure why it returns to being distorted... just does.

The body's higher nylon content
does not adhere well using most epoxies, nor most glues that I tried.
Shoe glue being one of those.
The latter might hold temporarily, but I want a semi-permanent, clean fix.

seriously Dennis... do you read any of the words that I type here ?

Your experience offers little help for my resolve.

thanks for sharing about yourself and your experiences... again :roll:

aren't you still debating in your mind...
what decal backing you're gonna use !? Lol

btw Mike F is gonna help me out
and actually mail me the flat bar materials that I need/want.
^ muh very own kris kringle

...thanks Mike "thumbsup"

edit:

oh and a short clip testing the rocker protection out...

skip to 17:30 for the spirited ending.

https://youtu.be/SgksQ8h2o5Q

 

[kgb424]

You need to sand or rough up the surface to make the Shoe Goo and adhesives and epoxies too stick

That why I use the lathe tape first

Its tacky and sticks then coat with the Goo and the lathe acts as fiber glass mesh

and it get hard and stiffens up

in instead of using aluminum or steel sheet metal and drilling holes in your body

and it will get scratched up and dented

you could make a channel on your sliders that the body rests in

and with the body stiffened on the inside

it should not warp

is the motor and esc getting hot and creating heat and warping the body ??

Is the warping maybe caused by the interior pushing the body out ??

 

[TacoCrawler]

you really want to make it difficult for me don't you ?

I'm doing what I'm doing...
because it's what's done on the 1:1 TJ Jeeps

Let me google that for you

^ click images fool

And drilling 8 wee holes into the body is the least of my worry.
I have a spare body if I want purdy and new.

 

[kgb424]

yeah that fixes the bottom of the body

in your pictures you see circles in the plastic where its warped, and if look at your pics its the posts in the plastic where the interior attaches

In your pictures you can see the interior bowing out the body

up higher under the driver where its pushing out

if that area was stiffened plus what your doing

it would not flex, would not bow or warp

your only fixing part of the problem

the inside needs to stiffened

its not just the bottom, its the lower whole side

so go your self and due it the right way

and there will be no warping

 

[TacoCrawler]

" blah, blah, blah "

so go your self and due it the right way

and there will be no warping

i am doing it the right way...

MY way

 

[kgb424]

which is half ass and not the right way to eliminate the warping from the plastic

even with a channel on the slider or your metal on the bottom of the body

only stops the bottom not under the driver seat where it warped

so go again

your still doing it half ass and not fixing the problem