Mike Flea
I wanna be Dave
Ya, definitely too much blue with the rider. Need to paint his outfit white with stripes and stars like Evel Kneivel!
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1/6 Wraith/Nylint TJ Jeep + scale quad
- Thread starter TacoCrawler
- Start date
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
Eventually I would build a trailer...
tho' can't say I've spent much time resourcing that.
As far as a 1/6 scale truck body with a bed...
Maybe a newbright body ?
I can't say for sure
as I've not looked into that.
You should probably inquire with cmbscx10
as he has a 1/6 truck body that might work for that ?
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/larg...50-hd-all-pro-expedition-pack-rack-build.html
tho' can't say I've spent much time resourcing that.
As far as a 1/6 scale truck body with a bed...
Maybe a newbright body ?
I can't say for sure
as I've not looked into that.
You should probably inquire with cmbscx10
as he has a 1/6 truck body that might work for that ?
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/larg...50-hd-all-pro-expedition-pack-rack-build.html
cmbscx10
I wanna be Dave
Screw the trailer and finish the TJ IMO.
My Bed is not really to scale of my rig. It is 9.5" L x 8.5" W.
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
Don't worry... the TJ completion will be first ;-)
Yeah, but close... fits my quad's width @ 7"
but would need to overhang out back
as my quad's total length is nearer 12.5"
Tho' it could be made to work.
I'd rather not add that weight
to the chassis's COG/suspension.
So a trailer is the only acceptable hauling method for me.
Just not in any real hurry with that build.
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
It has nylon printed springs of various thickness for tuning.
No shocks.
The whole kit was 3D printed/engineered to bolt together.
And I'm not the engineer, nor printer.
Rolls fine at crawling/slow speeds.
But is not great for traveling at higher speeds.
the axle housing looks like this...
(ignore the eye bolt, spring/nut thingy...
was intended to be used as a lunette, but was not utilized)
Guess I don't have pics of the stub axle(s) !?
it uses stub axles with 12mm pinned hexes.
The stub axle(s) are retained using dual bearings each side.
and I think an E clip retains those in the axle's housing end(s).
^ but I'd have to take them apart and look again to be sure.
-------------------
Not really sure how I want to build the hauler trailer...
But it likely won't need much suspension articulation.
If articulation is something wanted...
then probably trailing links (arms) with shock(s) to dampen
would likely work best.
But a hauler trailer doesn't need much articulation...
it needs to hold weight and ride flat.
Like I said... I haven't really given much thought
as to how I might build it.
Probably similar to the Big Dog trailer...
tho' I might even purchase one of those if I find one
that doesn't break my bank.
Google "Big Dog RC Trailer" and you will know more ;-)
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Taco
I got a 3 railed Moto cycle trailer
and its got leaf springs and they only way it rides smooth is with 3 bikes loaded up
I have used it a couple times with a single bike
You have under inflate the tires on the trailer to get any smoothness on the multilane highways and a 2 lane highway, and a shitload of fire roads and trails.
and the trailer sucks with out enough weight on it, it bounces and even with tire under inflated, there is truck box up front that holds a lot of gear, but when loaded the trailer is not balanced, it gets tongue heavy
cause we would drive out into the BLM land and camp and ride for days, and drive back out
so it was a combination of terrain, it was just easy to load 3 bikes in my full size Chevy,
I got a 3 railed Moto cycle trailer
and its got leaf springs and they only way it rides smooth is with 3 bikes loaded up
I have used it a couple times with a single bike
You have under inflate the tires on the trailer to get any smoothness on the multilane highways and a 2 lane highway, and a shitload of fire roads and trails.
and the trailer sucks with out enough weight on it, it bounces and even with tire under inflated, there is truck box up front that holds a lot of gear, but when loaded the trailer is not balanced, it gets tongue heavy
cause we would drive out into the BLM land and camp and ride for days, and drive back out
so it was a combination of terrain, it was just easy to load 3 bikes in my full size Chevy,
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TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
...I'll assume we are discussing 1:1 trailers now !?
ok... a two word reply won't cut mustard here.
So read this and utilize your comprehension
Trailers were not designed to be towed around unladen.
Most will bounce somewhat when unladen.
Tire construction and their load capacity...
along with utilizing a lower tire pressure
is critical in minimizing bounce when unladen.
Regardless of the bouncing...
the trailer should still track straight behind the hauler.
If it don't... it maybe wasn't built right.
Or possibly the trailer/tongue is not level
with the hitch at the back of the hauler ?
The load capacity of your particular trailer...
is probably rated for a heavier loads then what you employ...
especially when hauling a single bike.
Possibly your trailer's spring rate could be reduced
for those lighter loads.
But that would entail swapping out to softer leaf springs
that offer more progression and less load carrying capacity.
But the trade off may not be worth the expenditure required.
A single axle trailer, when not loaded properly
will most always be somewhat tongue heavy.
Not really an issue with my lightweight 1/4 ton off road trailer.
But, how I load the bed of my trailer, makes a difference.
Especially for my back
Some tongue weight is wanted... but not too much ;-)
My 1/4 ton trailer's tongue weight (loaded)
is prolly around 50 - 60 lbs.
Tandem (dual or even 3 axle) trailers reduce tongue weight/
work better concerning load balance/distribution.
^ tho' generally built/designed in support of heavier loads.
That's how it goes when purchasing a generic trailer.
It was likely built for a specific load weight/capacity.
And anything less... will cause it to bounce a little.
-------------
As far as loading weight into the bed of a truck...
The taller COG and ramp requirements can be a pita.
And that's why trailers sit lower to the ground.
I once saw someone drop their bike off the bed/ramp
as they were trying to load that :shock:
That would be the pita ;-)
A crawler has a much softer suspension system...
and is not designed for carrying heavy loads.
It's designed to flex and articulate by utilizing less resistance.
I suppose one could try to find the middle ground...
But generally a hauler rig will not articulate as well...
As the suspension needs be stiffer to carry those heavy loads.
But that same stiffness is not helpful for crawlers
that need to articulate and flex easily/fully.
Your full size hauler is not a crawler... ( is my guess )
and likely sees minimal off road use !?
Most full size factory rigs lean more towards hauling weight/loads...
rather then having supple flex and articulation wanted for off road use.
Load hauling trucks tend to ride stiff out back
when unladen. (not much ride difference then an unladen trailer)
Trying to find that middle ground is difficult at best
and choosing which is more valuable to it's user...
is a challenge for the serious.
My 1:1 Toyota hauler is first and foremost an off road rig...
hauling is not it's primary use.
My 1/4 ton trailer's tongue weight is next to nothing...
and so... does not compress my rear leaf springs much at all.
If my 1/4 ton trailer is unladen...
it will bounce more then I like.
But reducing the tire pressure helps for that.
The original bias ply rated military tires...
ride stiffer then would a radial tire.
But if I air down and drive sanely...
I have no issue.
A heavy load hauled in a truck bed is a different story altogether.
But I didn't spend my coin on custom Deaver progressive leaf springs...
for the purpose of hauling loads.
Surprisingly my cust. 9lf Deavers hold weight purdy well.
Tho' instead of the added weight wearing those out prematurely...
I put that weight in a tow behind instead.
Gravity, flex and time... is always hard on springs.
They are a consumable item that will eventually
require replacement or rebuilding.
^ well... if ya own the junk long enough ;-)
ok... a two word reply won't cut mustard here.
So read this and utilize your comprehension
Trailers were not designed to be towed around unladen.
Most will bounce somewhat when unladen.
Tire construction and their load capacity...
along with utilizing a lower tire pressure
is critical in minimizing bounce when unladen.
Regardless of the bouncing...
the trailer should still track straight behind the hauler.
If it don't... it maybe wasn't built right.
Or possibly the trailer/tongue is not level
with the hitch at the back of the hauler ?
The load capacity of your particular trailer...
is probably rated for a heavier loads then what you employ...
especially when hauling a single bike.
Possibly your trailer's spring rate could be reduced
for those lighter loads.
But that would entail swapping out to softer leaf springs
that offer more progression and less load carrying capacity.
But the trade off may not be worth the expenditure required.
A single axle trailer, when not loaded properly
will most always be somewhat tongue heavy.
Not really an issue with my lightweight 1/4 ton off road trailer.
But, how I load the bed of my trailer, makes a difference.
Especially for my back
Some tongue weight is wanted... but not too much ;-)
My 1/4 ton trailer's tongue weight (loaded)
is prolly around 50 - 60 lbs.
Tandem (dual or even 3 axle) trailers reduce tongue weight/
work better concerning load balance/distribution.
^ tho' generally built/designed in support of heavier loads.
That's how it goes when purchasing a generic trailer.
It was likely built for a specific load weight/capacity.
And anything less... will cause it to bounce a little.
-------------
As far as loading weight into the bed of a truck...
The taller COG and ramp requirements can be a pita.
And that's why trailers sit lower to the ground.
I once saw someone drop their bike off the bed/ramp
as they were trying to load that :shock:
That would be the pita ;-)
A crawler has a much softer suspension system...
and is not designed for carrying heavy loads.
It's designed to flex and articulate by utilizing less resistance.
I suppose one could try to find the middle ground...
But generally a hauler rig will not articulate as well...
As the suspension needs be stiffer to carry those heavy loads.
But that same stiffness is not helpful for crawlers
that need to articulate and flex easily/fully.
Your full size hauler is not a crawler... ( is my guess )
and likely sees minimal off road use !?
Most full size factory rigs lean more towards hauling weight/loads...
rather then having supple flex and articulation wanted for off road use.
Load hauling trucks tend to ride stiff out back
when unladen. (not much ride difference then an unladen trailer)
Trying to find that middle ground is difficult at best
and choosing which is more valuable to it's user...
is a challenge for the serious.
My 1:1 Toyota hauler is first and foremost an off road rig...
hauling is not it's primary use.
My 1/4 ton trailer's tongue weight is next to nothing...
and so... does not compress my rear leaf springs much at all.
If my 1/4 ton trailer is unladen...
it will bounce more then I like.
But reducing the tire pressure helps for that.
The original bias ply rated military tires...
ride stiffer then would a radial tire.
But if I air down and drive sanely...
I have no issue.
A heavy load hauled in a truck bed is a different story altogether.
But I didn't spend my coin on custom Deaver progressive leaf springs...
for the purpose of hauling loads.
Surprisingly my cust. 9lf Deavers hold weight purdy well.
Tho' instead of the added weight wearing those out prematurely...
I put that weight in a tow behind instead.
Gravity, flex and time... is always hard on springs.
They are a consumable item that will eventually
require replacement or rebuilding.
^ well... if ya own the junk long enough ;-)
Taco
I found these axles for less than $30, the silver one is a Tamiya 1/14 Tractor Trailer Axle
and they use leaf springs
the Quad is 1/18 or 1/16 scale, the Jeep is 5th scale, will the quad fit on a 1/10 scale trailer
cause it would not look right sitting on a huge 5th scale
I found these axles for less than $30, the silver one is a Tamiya 1/14 Tractor Trailer Axle
and they use leaf springs
the Quad is 1/18 or 1/16 scale, the Jeep is 5th scale, will the quad fit on a 1/10 scale trailer
cause it would not look right sitting on a huge 5th scale
Last edited:
Mike Flea
I wanna be Dave
Hmmm, too narrow for my trailer.
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
Some 1/10 scale trailer's could work for my 1/6 scale quad...
and that is why I brought the BigDog RC trailer up.
Yep... it's built for hauling 1/10th scale rigs ;-)
But it could be acceptable. as a trailer, just for hauling the quad.
And with room to spare for adding assorted scale accessories on board.
Would seem you are selective in what you read...
so maybe I should just post pictures... and stfu !? :roll:
One more time...
and if this doesn't ring yer bell...
then it's not gonna happen
My Quad's length/width measures approx. 12.5" L X 7" W
Big Dog RC trailer specs.
- Length: 22.63" (575mm)
- Width: 12.28" (312mm)
- Height: 5.31" (135mm)
- Inside of the Deck Length: 15.9in / 404mm
- Inside of the Deck Width: 8.5in / 216mm
My 1/6 scale TJ measures 24" L X 12" W
so with that spec information in front of yer face...
what's your official conclusion ?
I think it would suffice...
but I'm not paying $ 200. to find out.
But if I could get one at a lower cost...
I just might give it a whirl.
Last edited:
Taco
You could make a simple 1/10th scale or 1/8th scale trailer
that is 7 1/2'' to 8'' wide and 13'' to 14'' inches long
and use 2.2'' rims and tires instead of 1.9'' rims and tires
And is single axle and a flat bed, that has ramps built in or tilts
just like a real Quad trailer
and it would look more scale and more realistic
and would wheel better and way lighter and more drivable
then a quad on dual axle car trailer with extra stuff around it
cause it won't look right
You could make a simple 1/10th scale or 1/8th scale trailer
that is 7 1/2'' to 8'' wide and 13'' to 14'' inches long
and use 2.2'' rims and tires instead of 1.9'' rims and tires
And is single axle and a flat bed, that has ramps built in or tilts
just like a real Quad trailer
and it would look more scale and more realistic
and would wheel better and way lighter and more drivable
then a quad on dual axle car trailer with extra stuff around it
cause it won't look right
Last edited:
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
More progress on the TJ's chassis...
cross member(s) and upper plates made. ( steel 22ga plate )
There are 4 supporting cross member's
welded to the frame rails supporting those plates.
the front bumper is just an estimation at this point.
Was hoping I could find and mount a winch up front.
Haven't really looked tho'...just wanna be in the ball park ;-)
was trying to decide if I should just bolt the plates in place...
or instead... tack weld them to the frame and call it good !?
what say you all ?
the plate surface will have rubber laid down for the LiPo twins.
cross member(s) and upper plates made. ( steel 22ga plate )
There are 4 supporting cross member's
welded to the frame rails supporting those plates.
the front bumper is just an estimation at this point.
Was hoping I could find and mount a winch up front.
Haven't really looked tho'...just wanna be in the ball park ;-)
was trying to decide if I should just bolt the plates in place...
or instead... tack weld them to the frame and call it good !?
what say you all ?
the plate surface will have rubber laid down for the LiPo twins.
Last edited:
cmbscx10
I wanna be Dave
More progress on the TJ's chassis...
cross member(s) and upper plates made. ( steel 22ga plate )
There are 4 supporting cross member's
welded to the frame rails supporting those plates.
the front bumper is just an estimation at this point.
Was hoping I could find and mount a winch up front.
Haven't really looked tho'...just wanna be in the ball park ;-)
was trying to decide if I should just bolt the plates in place...
or instead... tack weld them to the frame and call it good !?
what say you all ?
Looking great man. "thumbsup""thumbsup"
I would tack the bumper in place.
How are you for clearance on the servo? Looks tight.
With the twin batteries you'll be out all day on a single charge.
Mike Flea
I wanna be Dave
My suggestion, since you already have crossmembers welded to the frame for strength, is bolt the plates to the crossmembers, that way, if you decide to change something, it'll be easier for maintenance. I'm liking the way the chassis looks now, beefy!"thumbsup"