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1/6 Wraith/Nylint TJ Jeep + scale quad

inside muh head

The wider that the shock(s) mount on the axle...
the more stable and planted the chassis will be.
But extreme articulation/max flex may be sacrificed slightly.

But I'm going for a scale/realistic flex-articulation here...
not some super crawling spider monkey thang.

Obviously the tires cannot rub on the shocks when turning.
So spaced too wide... and there's other problems.
Tho' mine currently clear at full L/R steering lock. ~just barely~

Maybe it's the offset/backspacing of these particular wheels...
or the slw hubs used that gives more room.
~Don't know, Don't care~

Imma change out to 6" tires (or near that)... eventually
so fit will get more crucial on that day.
So the option of changing the shock position(s)
may come in handy one day. ;-)
I had to move the lower shock mounts outboard of the lower mounts...
so that I can share the lower mounting ear(s)/bolt with the susp. link.
As well clear the lower shock bucket - upper ear (mount)

This shock placement nets me the lowest possible
chassis ride height.
So I'll start here... and change it if necessary.
The upper eye/ear of the mount is left unused... (for now)
and it could simply be cut off if one wished to.
But the upper hole on the lower mount is originally designated for the shock(s) lower mounting position.
And I'm keeping those intact for further ride height adjustments if I need.

I'm not following any instructions... I'm doing my own thang
even then... I'm all about reliability and durability...
so the lower mount(s) upper tabs were reinforced by putting a bolt W spacer thru/in between the ears.

Granted I went a little wide originally...
but it had more to do with my bolt length availability,
at the time, then anything else.

I'll be changing out to shorter length bolts...
when I pick those up.

Prolly some better looking alloy spacers as well
once I determine the exact length needed.

The bottom of the shocks will still be spaced outboard slightly wider
then at the uppers.
But both will be moved inboard equally in their distance.

I do this for a purpose.
as it will push the axle downward as well as outward slightly...
creating some resistance during higher speeds and turning.

The body and the chassis should roll flatter.
well... in principle anyways.

it's kinda like the principle utilized on ifs cars...
a little negative camber added...
and it corners a little better.

Only ya can't change camber on a SA

so I'll try for similar result...
using force/resistance instead of neg. camber.

kool thang is...
...nothing is, forever

so being able to easily return it back it's original state
as a stock Wraith, is one of my goals.
 
so the simple

answer would be yes

Wider is better

dumbass

could you flip the axle tubes, I don't think wraith axles come a part and would have to be cut

so you could flip the ones from the front axle to rear and buy extra's axle tubes if needed

so the shock/lower link mount is farther away from the center diff

could you glue/bond a second shock mount

closer to the c-hubs and lockouts

cause I seen people cut a Wraith axle

so the diff was centered and had equal length axle tubes and was four linked

not off set like a stock Wraith axle is
 
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Obviously the wraith axles could be altered...
I've seen tubes replaced, lengthened, pumpkin's centered, etc.

but I don't need to... and likely won't bother with any of that.

I'm not interested in tires that mount
outboard of the fenders, a whole tire's width.
Nothing about that revs my motor.

I'm purposely going for a more factory original - street look...
so... no more then 1/3 of the tires will stick out past the fenders.

When I get the near 6" tires...
I will play with hub offset and wheel backspacing
to better fit the tires so they still fit mostly inside
the fenders.

If I must... I will tub the rear to fit those and allow for
a respectable, but reasonable, amount of articulation.

Thanks for sharing your insight...
but I think we're not on the same page.

I'm not spending a fortune on building this chassis...
It just has to be durable/reliable enough for my needs.
And my name is not Ricky the basher :flipoff:

I'd rather be done with this and operating it...
rather then spending my time building it.

But... no one sells a decent 1/6 scale crawler kit... so I must.

This build simply began...
due to the fact I had three 1/6 scale Nylint's laying around...
and needed an acceptable chassis to fit under those bodies.

The Wraith was my choosing, due to it's popularity...
and the available aftermarket support.
Plus it's a cousin to my SCX-10...
so I can share some parts, screws/bolts/nuts, and even steel gears.

So besides the pita mini quad build...

my primary desire for this build is... to keep it simple (K.I.S.S.)

So if ya have simple solutions to some of my posed inquiry's...
be sure to share what you know.

But realize...

If ya throw complication's into the mix...
I probably won't pay much mind to that.
 
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So I just couldn't wait any longer...
had to test out this rolling chassis.

So I stacked the e components (BRXL-FS) atop the chassis
along with a single 3s LiPo and a std. axial 55T mtr.

And all I can say is... wow ! :shock:

This mo' facky can haul butt !?
yet it crawls real slow and smooth as well.

I didn't video my exploitation...
because the chassis is not bridged yet...
and it needs some cross members
and plates to mount the e components on before getting more serious.

But I'm really pleased in the way it drives/handles...
and the steering is amazing considering it's longer wheel base.

I think the HH BRXL is the key...
and I think I'll be putting one in my SCX-10
shortly as well.

I noticed my "Trail-Ready" wheels are far from being ready for anything...
and that 3 of them wobble badly.
So I'll attempt to remount the tires...
and see if I can make them roll better.

If not...
I'll likely need purchase a different set of wheels :cry:

I was thinking a 6s would be fun...
But now after running the 3s...
I see no reason to attempt that 8)

Once I get the frame finished up
and everything mounted properly...
I'll do a short video showing how it rolls.

At least now...
I feel confident that it will roll
even better then I first thought.

yay for me !? 8)
 
Taco

what gearing are you using

cause a stock Wraith is 20/80 which is 4.00 or 4 to 1

my 2 Wraiths have stock gearing and 1 of my SCX10's for trial use

I have a 16, and 18 tooth pinion to see how much they slow it down

I was wrong 14/87 is 6.21 or 6 to 1 which I have in my crawler SCX10

I found this chart for 48 tooth pitch gears

spurs and pinions and there ratio's

http://www.rctek.com/pdf/gearing_chart_48_pitch_electric.pdf

and here is one for 32 tooth pitch gears

spurs and pinions and there ratio's

http://www.rctek.com/pdf/gearing_chart_32_pitch_electric.pdf

check it out

I have both 35 turn brushed motors and 13.5 turn brushless motors

and both 2s and 3s lipo's

I don't if the motors make a difference

from your pics it looks like you got the Axial 55 turn motor
 
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It must be the 20t pinion that came in the kit...
thought I changed that to a 16t

But since I can't find the original pinion in the box...
must mean I installed it :oops:

That will get changed out for a smaller tooth count pinion
but I'm not worried about it at this point.
So I'll worry about it later.

Was driving the Everest quad chassis around today...
testing the work I did to the chassis.

The chassis altercations work well...
and it crawls acceptably.
But this pos is way to slow for my liking.

Yeah I realize it's supposed to be a crawler...
but seriously... it's slower then slow.
And I doubt I can hang with that !?

Gotta change the motor, gearing,
or do something to bring the wheel speed up a little.
dang... I didn't think I'd have to spend more
dollar just to have it run respectably. :evil:

^ that

or... just strap it down on a trailer for the TJ to tow around.
Enjoy the visual and realize it operates using RC
and will unload and load onto the trailer.

And so... that should be good/well enough.

Thinking I should've purchased a different chassis/kit
for this quad build :cry:

oh well...
Guess I'll finish it up as is... and worry about it later.
 
more pictures... just for their entertainment value :wink:

These show my Rr shock provisions. (the black bed insert will fit more precisely)

The current chassis/body static ride height.
 as well... a size comparison to that of my 1/10 SCX-10 Honcho.



























 
Taco, I seen you asking about mounting points for your body. Does your Jeep hood open?, if not, cut it out so it does. makes a good spot to put your battery. Then you can mount the body to the frame without worrying about what you have to go through to change batteries. I know our Jeeps are different, but I made mounts from modified "L" brackets that I picked up from Home Depot. 2 in front, and 2 in the rear. The battery actually slides in behind the firewall, and rests on the spur gear cover, and is held in place with 2 Velcro straps.

Ya, those tires look good, but I think the PL TSL SX XL Swampers might fill up those wells better.
 
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^ "thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup"

Excellent work. I like the ride height. Stuffing any bigger than the tires you have may require some fender trimming or even a comp cut. I personally wouldn't want to do that as it looks really good the way it is.

Big for sure but not as big as i figured next to the Taco. I forget what WB you ended up with 14.5"?.

Where are you mounting those awesome Fuel cans? If my trans gears didn't blow i would order some but need a shovel and axe next.
 
The shovel I picked up from Michael's also had a hoe and rake in the package, around $10. The shovel is 4.5" long, and the blade is 3/4" wide, the rake and hoe were 6" long, with 3/4" wide tines/blades.
 
Mike Flea said:
The shovel I picked up from Michael's also had a hoe and rake in the package, around $10. The shovel is 4.5" long, and the blade is 3/4" wide, the rake and hoe were 6" long, with 3/4" wide tines/blades.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info on the shovel. The measurements are correct so i may pick one of those up. I like my hoes a little taller than that so they can keep those.:lmao:

What are these RCP Crawlers lower link/shock mount you mentioned? Not being lazy but do you have a link by any chance.
 
Mike Flea said:
Taco, I seen you asking about mounting points for your body. Does your Jeep hood open?, if not, cut it out so it does. makes a good spot to put your battery. Then you can mount the body to the frame without worrying about what you have to go through to change batteries. I know our Jeeps are different, but I made mounts from modified "L" brackets that I picked up from Home Depot. 2 in front, and 2 in the rear. The battery actually slides in behind the firewall, and rests on the spur gear cover, and is held in place with 2 Velcro straps.

Ya, those tires look good, but I think the PL TSL SX XL Swampers might fill up those wells better.
Click to expand...
...nope the hood does not open

I thought about cutting it.
But it has no structural under support if that were cut.
And this body would be too flexible if the hood did not offer some integrity.
The plastic on this body has high nylon content...
flexible/durable... but not very rigid if cut in the wrong places.

So... probably not going to cut the hood open for access.

As far as the taller XL PL TSL tires...
I could do it...
but would need move the lower shock mounts back up
to the higher mounting position to fit the taller tires.

So, I probably won't do that either...
as I prefer the lower COG... for now anyways.

cmbscx10 said:
^ "thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup"

Excellent work. I like the ride height. Stuffing any bigger than the tires you have may require some fender trimming or even a comp cut. I personally wouldn't want to do that as it looks really good the way it is.

Big for sure but not as big as i figured next to the Taco. I forget what WB you ended up with 14.5"?.

Where are you mounting those awesome Fuel cans? If my trans gears didn't blow i would order some but need a shovel and axe next.
Click to expand...
The wheel base is 15.5"

yeah... I kinda like the lower ride height as well.
I think the current tires fill the wheel wells acceptably.

Plus if I can make them...
I wanted to plate the side panels... (mini diamond plate) ?
and when doing that, I would likely shrink the wheel well openings
a little more during that process.
Well the edge's nearer the rocker panels anyways.

I'll probably mount the MFC's at the back of the body...
along with a spare tire.
Possibly build a swing gate that mounts to the frame.
But I'm not 100% sure yet.

Think I'll leave the MFC's the color they are (unpainted)
The current color is near the same that my 1:1 Scepter MFC's are.

Mike Flea said:
The shovel I picked up from Michael's also had a hoe and rake in the package, around $10. The shovel is 4.5" long, and the blade is 3/4" wide, the rake and hoe were 6" long, with 3/4" wide tines/blades.
Click to expand...
cool, my son works at Michael's and gets a decent discount.
I'll have to look for those the next time I go into his store "thumbsup"

cmbscx10 said:
Found them https://www.rcpcrawlers.com/product.php?productid=1078&cat=0&page=1&featured. Never heard of RCP Crawlers. They are in CA too which is cool. Thanks for the info. I may try those cause they look super easy to hack off the front and round the back out.
Click to expand...
Isn't RCP Hobby one of the site's primary sponsors - vendors ?

Those hangers look great...
and I think they could easily be altered to replicate
the Max C.

But dang $ 12. ? (fark I don't need eight of 'dem) :shock:

wanna go halves on the cost ?
I wouldn't mind having a few of those to make an attempt.
 
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the intentions of these pictures are...

an attempt to define the scale differences
of 10th scale Vs 6th scale.

btw... wheel base is not the defining factor. *

* The Toyota body, if it were a 6th scale,
would require a longer wheel base then the TJ.

* The 6th scale figure is 12" tall
whereas a 10th scale figure would be 7" tall.
Ignore Willy's over sized cartoonish helmet.
Willy is not true to 1/10th scale.
 
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Taco

There is a Hpi RC quad on Ebay right now

here is a picture of the quad and driver

I think its 1/10th scale
 
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while the chassis might be 10th scale.

~ guessing it's a Savage ~

the finished assembly is 1/5 scale

and I have no interest in it old fart

You buy it ;-) :flipoff:
 
Taco

I was just pointing out the quad

and the rider

not suggesting any thing

I don't want it or need another r/c
 
RedCat Everest 16 = 1/6 scale quad (progress)

Did some more dremel work...
for a pre-fitment for mounting of the e components...
and a few other small details were added as well.

The driver figure actually secures the quad body to the chassis...
as the shoes have tabs on the inside surface that fit into the chassis.
I also heated up the legs to narrow their spread and create more tension.
But it will still get additional chassis mount(s) for added strength.

Because the original driver is hollow/lighter then using Joe...
the donor driver will be utilized when wheeling the quad.

^ 'bout the same scale size as Joe.

Tho' I do plan on doing some paint work on the figure...
so as to add more detail to the overwhelming blue everything.
The ESC will be mounted to replicate a radiator.
Will likely be glued into position using E6000 for the hold.

I'm even attempting to use the exhaust can
from the donor quad.
Tho' I still need to work on that a little more.

These pictures are not the final positioning.
Was just to see if I could make it work (fit).
As it's a tight fit up in there.
But, I think I can ;-)

------------

random order

radiator...



kicked the chassis over more then a few times
to see if things would fall apart... but it didn't.



here's a look at the tabs on the figure's feet...
holds the figure and quad body purdy dang well.



The ESC rests directly on top of the front cross member.



welp... prolly as good as it's gonna get...

...even tho' I've still yet to change to the 4 link setup.

so it must be time to finish this one up
and call it good enough.
 
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