Mike Flea
I wanna be Dave
Try using a lower turn motor, or changing the spur/pinion for more wheelspeed?
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1/6 Wraith/Nylint TJ Jeep + scale quad
- Thread starter TacoCrawler
- Start date
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
yeah... gonna mess with the gearing a little... if I can
at least a pinion with a coupla' more teeth.
will see if I can find a 280 mtr that has enough torque.
23.8mm is the 260 can diameter...
as well the 280... tho' the later is slightly longer
I think there's room for that additional length.
doubt I can squeeze a 360 in there tho'
brushless is likely an easier find for the 23.8mm can diameter.
but heck... I'd have to dig deeper into muh wallet :evil:
If you got to big of motor
you have to modify the mounting holes in motor plate
plus you have shave the transmission with a Dremel, got high speed cutters and basically carved and shaved the tranny
Its not as simple as dropping in a motor
I got a 270 brushed motor in one
and a 380 18.5T brushless motor
and both of I had to shave the transmissions and modify the mounting holes to get 2 screws in it and too the gear mesh just right
cause the spur gears are oblong and got high spot, both of my Exceeds are that way
cause when I got my used one the guy only had one screw holding the 270 motor in and the motor would twist and loosen up and I was smart enough to stop and not strip a gear
so I made my own motor mount plate, but the 2mm screws stripped out my holes that hold it to the tranny and it won't work
so I could make 2 more motor plates and get some better spur gears
it took me awhile and a lot fitting and shaving and fitting and shaving until, I got it too work
I have not found Pinions or spur gears to change the gearing
so if you find some, that will work and are not oblong or got high spots
please let me know cause
I want to play with the gearing a little too
cause I would like a spur gears with out high spots please
you have to modify the mounting holes in motor plate
plus you have shave the transmission with a Dremel, got high speed cutters and basically carved and shaved the tranny
Its not as simple as dropping in a motor
I got a 270 brushed motor in one
and a 380 18.5T brushless motor
and both of I had to shave the transmissions and modify the mounting holes to get 2 screws in it and too the gear mesh just right
cause the spur gears are oblong and got high spot, both of my Exceeds are that way
cause when I got my used one the guy only had one screw holding the 270 motor in and the motor would twist and loosen up and I was smart enough to stop and not strip a gear
so I made my own motor mount plate, but the 2mm screws stripped out my holes that hold it to the tranny and it won't work
so I could make 2 more motor plates and get some better spur gears
it took me awhile and a lot fitting and shaving and fitting and shaving until, I got it too work
I have not found Pinions or spur gears to change the gearing
so if you find some, that will work and are not oblong or got high spots
please let me know cause
I want to play with the gearing a little too
cause I would like a spur gears with out high spots please
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TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
Did you do a write up on any of this ? pics ?
or are you just foaming at the mouth again ? Lol
pics... or it didn't happen
Did you look to see if any of the Kimbrough spur gears might fit ?
I haven't even had the chance to pull mine yet, to count the teeth.
shoot... redcat don't even list one sold separately...
and I might have to buy a transmission just to get another !? :roll:
Tho' I'll bet it's the same one that's on a Maxstone 16.
Did you look at Hot Racing and see if they might have anything ?
I just looked thru 39 pages on here on the Exceed
and the only thing I found was one guy says the pinions from a Associated 18B will fit the stock motor
but the shafts on the 270 motor and the 380 are bigger
so I would have drill out the pinions
not sure where to even start looking for a spur gear
I'd want to make sure it fit before I ordered them online
and your right they used to sell a spur gear in the Exceed parts online
not any more
I can take pictures but I have to pull the tranny's and motors to show you what I shaved down to make the motors fit
I might do it tomorrow or if not try and take some good pictures with having to take then apart
and a few people have installed MRC C-Hubs and Knuckles and axles
and explain what you got to do, to make them work right
but nothing on gearing
or where to find spur and pinions
and the only thing I found was one guy says the pinions from a Associated 18B will fit the stock motor
but the shafts on the 270 motor and the 380 are bigger
so I would have drill out the pinions
not sure where to even start looking for a spur gear
I'd want to make sure it fit before I ordered them online
and your right they used to sell a spur gear in the Exceed parts online
not any more
I can take pictures but I have to pull the tranny's and motors to show you what I shaved down to make the motors fit
I might do it tomorrow or if not try and take some good pictures with having to take then apart
and a few people have installed MRC C-Hubs and Knuckles and axles
and explain what you got to do, to make them work right
but nothing on gearing
or where to find spur and pinions
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TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
Everest frame extension(s)
^ this altercation will allow for an more upright shock positioning.
They are small ears... but are cut from common 10 ga mild steel sheet...
because I wished to keep the COG weight as low as possible.
Plus like the fact that I can weld and box the ends as I choose, (later).
I have to wait for more parts to come via mail...
in order to complete these altercations.
^ will include 4 linking Frt/Rr
and frame cross members (x2) (threaded posts)
and boxing the outer ends in their finality.
^ this altercation will allow for an more upright shock positioning.
They are small ears... but are cut from common 10 ga mild steel sheet...
because I wished to keep the COG weight as low as possible.
Plus like the fact that I can weld and box the ends as I choose, (later).
I have to wait for more parts to come via mail...
in order to complete these altercations.
^ will include 4 linking Frt/Rr
and frame cross members (x2) (threaded posts)
and boxing the outer ends in their finality.
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TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
better pics added ^ to my previous post. just an fyi
random pics with the body set up top...
it will likely seat a little lower once done.
random pics with the body set up top...
it will likely seat a little lower once done.
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TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
A little nomenclature regarding ?
It looks like the brushless casing could be turned down
a little ?? Is that just an alloy cooling finned case jacket over
the primary casing ?
What is the other ? 280 ? bigger ?
pictures without description are not real helpful IMO.
And I'm not reading back to unscramble your prior gibberish.
I'm not really concerned with altering the motor plate.
I'll make my own if need be.
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Taco
The brushless motor is a Novak 380 18.5 turn, don't know if there is a sleeve
it came with Novak Micro pro ESC and is Sensored
the other motor is a 370 brushed Losi Mini LST motor
I pulled tranny so you could see
since I only type bullshit
that you don't even ****ing read
have a nice day
The brushless motor is a Novak 380 18.5 turn, don't know if there is a sleeve
it came with Novak Micro pro ESC and is Sensored
the other motor is a 370 brushed Losi Mini LST motor
I pulled tranny so you could see
since I only type bullshit
that you don't even ****ing read
have a nice day
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TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
Mike Flea
I wanna be Dave
I was a little leery about it at first, but now that Joe is sitting on it, it doesn't look that bad. The body still seems to sit a bit high, (lot's of space between fenders and tires), but not knowing how it's going to run either.
I know you put those extensions on there to straighten the shocks up, but how about trying a set of shorter shocks, might lower your COG a little.
I know you put those extensions on there to straighten the shocks up, but how about trying a set of shorter shocks, might lower your COG a little.
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
I may look for some shorter, better quality shocks later.
because these stock ones rather suck IMO...
The springs are too stiff and the valving too thick...
...well for this set up anyways.
And I'm not sure I can procure the springs I want, that will fit them.
It's not my intention for the tires to stuff up into the fender wells...
but I'll take a picture with the suspension compressed
and show how low that goes.
The frame ext./shock mounts
will have multiple holes for mounting the shocks...
and will offer some ride height adjustment/progression options.
I could lower the body a little more... and may later.
But the suspension height is about where it needs be.
But one should realize this is not a standard quad.
It's gonna be a rock crawling lizard, not a racer.
It's basically gonna be a side kick for the TJ.
And my son thinks it'll be ideal to mount a camera on it
for filming the TJ with.
----------------
compressed... (max articulation will find the tires closer to the fenders)
* my dremel brushes died...
and so waiting for replacements in the mail.
When those arrive...
I should be able to fine tune the plastics (grind a little more)
------------
just drilled four holes in each frame extension...
need some bolts/nuts to mount the shock's upper ends.
and will likely show that once I obtain them.
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TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
here's a few showing the upper shock mount(s),
holes drilled... shocks mounted.
holes drilled... shocks mounted.
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
just an comparison
of my build and the 1:1 raptor.
should show... that my build's fender height is not too far off.
Tho' mine is gonna be a crawler... not a berm buster ;-)
^ the front will be lowered about 1/4" - 3/8" more then what's seen in this pic.
of my build and the 1:1 raptor.
should show... that my build's fender height is not too far off.
Tho' mine is gonna be a crawler... not a berm buster ;-)
^ the front will be lowered about 1/4" - 3/8" more then what's seen in this pic.
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TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
cut and drilled some shock mounts for the TJ frame...
some cross members will need be placed as well...
but these shock mounts need be welded up first.
At this height...
the rear shock towers and shock uppers
will protrude slightly above the bed's inner surface.
So I have some dremel work to do before I weld.
The front shock mount(s) have no body interference.
some cross members will need be placed as well...
but these shock mounts need be welded up first.
At this height...
the rear shock towers and shock uppers
will protrude slightly above the bed's inner surface.
So I have some dremel work to do before I weld.
The front shock mount(s) have no body interference.
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
TJ Frame build phase 3
Shock mount(s) - tower(s) welded up.
next phase... cross members/platforms.
The chassis is free standing at this point...
and because of the weight of that...
it sits about 1/4" squat.
The shocks currently have almost no pre-load...
so chassis ride height is by no means finalized.
Adjusting pre-load and tuning the shocks
will net the final static ride height/damping that I desire.
Both lower and upper shock mount spacing
will likely be moved inwards some
after I get the frame supported properly.
Once I get the shock mounting situated...
I will need hack the TJ's plastic bed for the rear shock protrusion(s)
Got the brushes for my dremel...
so that tool is back on line "thumbsup"
--------------
Also received some more supporting parts
for the quad build.
Already added two 6mm alloy support tubes ( 3 mm thread ID )
to function as cross member's and stiffen the chassis.
They work real good and the chassis's flex/twist is gone.
Also replaced all of the 2 mm nuts with 2mm nylock nuts.
^ Seems purdy solid at this point.
Just need to mount the body.
oh... I almost forgot I was also gonna 4 link the 'Lil bugger.
Yep... another thing to do.
------------------
Pictures of the TJ's frame status ;-)
...that is all for now
Shock mount(s) - tower(s) welded up.
next phase... cross members/platforms.
The chassis is free standing at this point...
and because of the weight of that...
it sits about 1/4" squat.
The shocks currently have almost no pre-load...
so chassis ride height is by no means finalized.
Adjusting pre-load and tuning the shocks
will net the final static ride height/damping that I desire.
Both lower and upper shock mount spacing
will likely be moved inwards some
after I get the frame supported properly.
Once I get the shock mounting situated...
I will need hack the TJ's plastic bed for the rear shock protrusion(s)
Got the brushes for my dremel...
so that tool is back on line "thumbsup"
--------------
Also received some more supporting parts
for the quad build.
Already added two 6mm alloy support tubes ( 3 mm thread ID )
to function as cross member's and stiffen the chassis.
They work real good and the chassis's flex/twist is gone.
Also replaced all of the 2 mm nuts with 2mm nylock nuts.
^ Seems purdy solid at this point.
Just need to mount the body.
oh... I almost forgot I was also gonna 4 link the 'Lil bugger.
Yep... another thing to do.
------------------
Pictures of the TJ's frame status ;-)
...that is all for now
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Where do you order
parts from China
and they delivery them by Canoe
pay for the faster shipping
you cheap bastard
and why are you shocks
tipped in towards the frame
should they not be straight up and down and not tipped in cause the bottom ball is not straight
parts from China
and they delivery them by Canoe
pay for the faster shipping
you cheap bastard
and why are you shocks
tipped in towards the frame
should they not be straight up and down and not tipped in cause the bottom ball is not straight
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TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
yep... no fire under muh butt, 5 day, no china fo' me.
...they can be anyways I like
my friend
now what ?! :razz:
-----------------
seriously tho'
had you read thru any of my prior post with a 'Lil comprehension...
You would have concluded that I'm not fully done with those.
So Technically
you would widen axles between the diff and c-hubs in front and between the diff and lock outs in the rear of both sides of the axles
or move the bottom shock mounts over on the axle
so the bottom of shocks mount similar to the way a stock Wraith is
with out all the spacers moving the bottom and top over
I know you said you were not done
just curious
you would widen axles between the diff and c-hubs in front and between the diff and lock outs in the rear of both sides of the axles
or move the bottom shock mounts over on the axle
so the bottom of shocks mount similar to the way a stock Wraith is
with out all the spacers moving the bottom and top over
I know you said you were not done
just curious
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