That looks like a good fit, is that lexan? Is that the New Bright body?
Drop that body down and make it a lowrider Monster truck!
Drop that body down and make it a lowrider Monster truck!
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Whittling on a SCX24
- Thread starter HumboldtEF
- Start date
Yota body is hot! Second truck for fiddling with, one always at the ready for crawling, that's the way to do it! :ror: "thumbsup"
Yes, looks nice, do it!
I think I'm happy enough with the front battery tray to release it, I should have it posted tonight.
I changed up the tabs on the side that hold the battery in to move them out of the way of the tires. At full lock and full compression the old version did rub a bit and now it just grazes it barely with 2" tires.
Here's the old version, the tabs on the side were screwed on and sit a bit farther forward and lower.
New version has the tabs reworked for more tire clearance and they are now glued on with CA (super glue) so you wont need extra screws. I also moved the battery strap slots farther apart so that the battery would sit directly on the tray, before it was held up a few millimeters by the strap.
I'm getting a lot of 'stringing' with the filament I'm using at the moment, but these do clean up with a little bit of work.
I also took out the front axles shafts so I could loctite their pins in (thanks for the tip Natedog!). The pins are not fixed in place and I did have one come loose a few days back and it locked up the wheels and marred the inside of the C-hub.
The damage is a bit hard to see but it chewed up the nubs that the Knuckles fasten to. I can still use them though.
This is what I found the first time, the pin had slid out on one side.
I took the pins out with needle nose pliers and used some red loctite to wipe the axle down and specifically the hole the pins go though. I rolled up a tiny piece of paper towel that I used to wipe the hole a bit. I only did this to help remove any grease that might have prevented the loctite from bonding.
Then I filled the hole with red loctite and slide the pins back in place using needle nose make sure to get them centered (by eye) and wiped off the excess. (is a blue tube of red loctite BTW)
I'd recommend folks do this mod before it pops loose and does damage
And I reworked the front bumper again pulling it back as tight as possible and angling it a bit. I'll probably share these files too, let me know if you guys want holes for the lights and I might make a second version including them.
I changed up the tabs on the side that hold the battery in to move them out of the way of the tires. At full lock and full compression the old version did rub a bit and now it just grazes it barely with 2" tires.
Here's the old version, the tabs on the side were screwed on and sit a bit farther forward and lower.
New version has the tabs reworked for more tire clearance and they are now glued on with CA (super glue) so you wont need extra screws. I also moved the battery strap slots farther apart so that the battery would sit directly on the tray, before it was held up a few millimeters by the strap.
I'm getting a lot of 'stringing' with the filament I'm using at the moment, but these do clean up with a little bit of work.
I also took out the front axles shafts so I could loctite their pins in (thanks for the tip Natedog!). The pins are not fixed in place and I did have one come loose a few days back and it locked up the wheels and marred the inside of the C-hub.
The damage is a bit hard to see but it chewed up the nubs that the Knuckles fasten to. I can still use them though.
This is what I found the first time, the pin had slid out on one side.
I took the pins out with needle nose pliers and used some red loctite to wipe the axle down and specifically the hole the pins go though. I rolled up a tiny piece of paper towel that I used to wipe the hole a bit. I only did this to help remove any grease that might have prevented the loctite from bonding.
Then I filled the hole with red loctite and slide the pins back in place using needle nose make sure to get them centered (by eye) and wiped off the excess. (is a blue tube of red loctite BTW)
I'd recommend folks do this mod before it pops loose and does damage
And I reworked the front bumper again pulling it back as tight as possible and angling it a bit. I'll probably share these files too, let me know if you guys want holes for the lights and I might make a second version including them.
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Very nice....again. What filament are you printing with? Nozzle worn out? Calibration, keeping filament warm and dry (hygroscopic, absorbs moisture to some extent), printer located in warm/dry area can all affect print output.
Proper to clean oil residue off dogbones before final Loctite job.
Holes to mount factory LEDs in the bumper would be good imo, need some red led rocklights and maybe a pair of much dimmer red taillights.
Proper to clean oil residue off dogbones before final Loctite job.
Holes to mount factory LEDs in the bumper would be good imo, need some red led rocklights and maybe a pair of much dimmer red taillights.
Brand new nozzle, I think it may be the new filament I'm using, and I also just upgrade the printer to the MK3S version (from the MK3). I haven't really worried about it as these are mostly hidden but I will need to swap out the filament soon to see if thats it. I'm also using new firmware.
You're talking like you've got a printer man! or maybe soon? do it "thumbsup"
Light mounts should be pretty easy to add, and maybe I can block off some of the light bleed out the back. I actually thought about re-purposing the bumper lights as rock lights. but really I'm just trying to keep this one as bare bones and light as possible.
I just posted up the front battery tray on Thingivense so anyone who wants the file to print can go grab it, there's a lowered version and a stock body height version.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3677918/files
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No printer here atm, done some research awhile back when I was considering and guy at work has had a couple different ones. Dab of black brush on paint will take care of LED light bleed out the rear of bumper mounts.
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mathcanbefun
Quarry Creeper
OK so I printed out the new battery mount (lowered 4.5mm version) and have done some testing. I'll upload pictures for reference.
The actual tray: Easy to put together. I have a mini cordless dremel that makes all of this a little easier but at most you'll need to drill out the body post holes. You can probably force screws into the holes without any pre-drilling. It was a perfect fit into the chassis and is very well placed up next to the motor. Everything has room and moves freely. My body is easier to put on now, the stock ESC location leaves a jumble of wires.
Moving the ESC: I put the ESC in basically the same place HumboldtEF did. I just made sure to give the transmission and links clearance when the shocks were fully compressed, and make sure the on/off switch is free. I secured it with hot glue just incase I wanted to move it around. If it needs it I'll add a stronger adhesive. I made an adapter for the battery plug to use my other micro batteries so I did not have to lengthen those. Not sure if the stock length is enough.
Hinge tray: for some reason this wouldnt print for me. I'll check with HumboldtEF to see if it's a real concern or just an issue on my end. One of the pieces that the screw goes through gets cut off when slicing.
Pros: The entire truck feels lighter. The battery is as far forward as can go. It really makes a night and day difference getting up rocks. It's far less tippy as a lot of the trucks weight is much lower. It also doesn't get thrown around by the servo any more, especially when descending. I like the stance more with it lower too. The on/off switch is much more convenient in this location. The wires are out of the way of the body, whereas before I would have to compress the body to get expose the body clip holes. The Ports on the ESC are now much more accessible.
Cons: NOTE: I thought there front tires rubbed at full lock but upon closer inspection its just super close. The tolerances are really good on this design. The rear is unaffected by this mod so no problems there. I was not able to use the lowest setting on the body post as my grille was hitting the bumper, so I used the middle hole. You just have to remove some bodywork. (So I guess no cons haha)
I recommend this mod. It works beautifully so far and makes more than one positive change to the truck. Very easy to do and adds alot of capability to the scx24.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
The actual tray: Easy to put together. I have a mini cordless dremel that makes all of this a little easier but at most you'll need to drill out the body post holes. You can probably force screws into the holes without any pre-drilling. It was a perfect fit into the chassis and is very well placed up next to the motor. Everything has room and moves freely. My body is easier to put on now, the stock ESC location leaves a jumble of wires.
Moving the ESC: I put the ESC in basically the same place HumboldtEF did. I just made sure to give the transmission and links clearance when the shocks were fully compressed, and make sure the on/off switch is free. I secured it with hot glue just incase I wanted to move it around. If it needs it I'll add a stronger adhesive. I made an adapter for the battery plug to use my other micro batteries so I did not have to lengthen those. Not sure if the stock length is enough.
Hinge tray: for some reason this wouldnt print for me. I'll check with HumboldtEF to see if it's a real concern or just an issue on my end. One of the pieces that the screw goes through gets cut off when slicing.
Pros: The entire truck feels lighter. The battery is as far forward as can go. It really makes a night and day difference getting up rocks. It's far less tippy as a lot of the trucks weight is much lower. It also doesn't get thrown around by the servo any more, especially when descending. I like the stance more with it lower too. The on/off switch is much more convenient in this location. The wires are out of the way of the body, whereas before I would have to compress the body to get expose the body clip holes. The Ports on the ESC are now much more accessible.
Cons: NOTE: I thought there front tires rubbed at full lock but upon closer inspection its just super close. The tolerances are really good on this design. The rear is unaffected by this mod so no problems there. I was not able to use the lowest setting on the body post as my grille was hitting the bumper, so I used the middle hole. You just have to remove some bodywork. (So I guess no cons haha)
I recommend this mod. It works beautifully so far and makes more than one positive change to the truck. Very easy to do and adds alot of capability to the scx24.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
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mathcanbefun
Quarry Creeper
Shoot this is the wrong thread. How do I remedy this? Just copy and paste?
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
Yeah you could copy and paste it into the other thread but its fine here too.
I just checked out the hinge and I'm not seeing anything getting cut off using Prusa Slicer.
This piece is really small which may have something to do with it, what sized nozzle did you use? I used a .15
To get my body to fit when lowered I did cut off some material below the grill, but I'm also using a different bumper too.
Is anyone else having trouble printing the hinge?
I just checked out the hinge and I'm not seeing anything getting cut off using Prusa Slicer.
This piece is really small which may have something to do with it, what sized nozzle did you use? I used a .15
To get my body to fit when lowered I did cut off some material below the grill, but I'm also using a different bumper too.
Is anyone else having trouble printing the hinge?
mathcanbefun
Quarry Creeper
Here's some pictures of the slice attempt.Yeah you could copy and paste it into the other thread but its fine here too.
I just checked out the hinge and I'm not seeing anything getting cut off using Prusa Slicer.
This piece is really small which may have something to do with it, what sized nozzle did you use? I used a .15
To get my body to fit when lowered I did cut off some material below the grill, but I'm also using a different bumper too.
Is anyone else having trouble printing the hinge?
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
mathcanbefun
Quarry Creeper
Using a 0.2 nozzle @ 0.15 layer height.
JeepinOR
Rock Crawler
Hinge printed flawlessly on my CR-10S; used Cura, stock CR-10S.
mathcanbefun
Quarry Creeper
nascarkeith
Rock Crawler
Just picked me up 2. One for me and one for my daughter. Definitely going to print the battery mount and hinge. I would also like a no light version of the bumper when you get that file ready.
I've got a Dremel 3D printer at work. I'm still learning on the modeling parts. Thanks for all you research and freely sharing info.
I've got a Dremel 3D printer at work. I'm still learning on the modeling parts. Thanks for all you research and freely sharing info.
Nice I've got a 2nd on the way too, so fun these little guys!
Its my pleasure to share "thumbsup"
I can put that bumper up now, its good to go.
I did try to make a version with lights but the width just doesnt work out so I'd need to totally redesign it, so I'm probably not going to do a version with lights.
I went through my design process on the hinge and I think I found the cause, and its likely something I may have never caught without your feedback mathcanbefun (I think my software fixes it for me) so thanks "thumbsup".
So the extrusion was done as a "new body" instead of "join", I've switched it to join and I think that was likely the cause.
I pulled the original file out and added the new one
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3677918
EDIT: I just posted up the front bumper https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3686020
I made sure I didnt make the same mistake that I made on the hinge, sure enough I did (fixed it though). From now on I'll be actively avoiding the new body option.
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mathcanbefun
Quarry Creeper
You are the MAN thank you! Im going to give it try right nowNice I've got a 2nd on the way too, so fun these little guys!
Its my pleasure to share "thumbsup"
I can put that bumper up now, its good to go.
I did try to make a version with lights but the width just doesnt work out so I'd need to totally redesign it, so I'm probably not going to do a version with lights.
I went through my design process on the hinge and I think I found the cause, and its likely something I may have never caught without your feedback mathcanbefun (I think my software fixes it for me) so thanks "thumbsup".
So the extrusion was done as a "new body" instead of "join", I've switched it to join and I think that was likely the cause.
I pulled the original file out and added the new one
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3677918
EDIT: I just posted up the front bumper https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3686020
I made sure I didnt make the same mistake that I made on the hinge, sure enough I did (fixed it though). From now on I'll be actively avoiding the new body option.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
Glad to help "thumbsup" I learned something as a result (at least I think?)
Just keep us posted on if that fixed it or not.
Just keep us posted on if that fixed it or not.
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BIGW0RM
Rock Crawler
How much more weight do you guys put up front? Right now mine is about 10g heavier up front. And my battery is in stock location.
From the looks of them trays your weight must be 70% or more up front?
I know more up front helps. But at what point is it too much? How do you gauge that guys? Im genuinely curious.
From the looks of them trays your weight must be 70% or more up front?
I know more up front helps. But at what point is it too much? How do you gauge that guys? Im genuinely curious.
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