Whittling on a SCX24

[HumboldtEF]

How much more weight do you guys put up front? Right now mine is about 10g heavier up front. And my battery is in stock location.

From the looks of them trays your weight must be 70% or more up front?

I know more up front helps. But at what point is it too much? How do you gauge that guys? Im genuinely curious.

I'll get back to you on the exact ratio, but I recall its close to 60-65% up front and with added weigh in the wheels its only gotten better performing. It used to tumble down hills from the lack of weight now it almost drives like its a 1/10 scale, the axles actually stay on the ground most of the time. CG front to back feels like just a bit forward of center, perfect spot for it IMHO. Though I credit the steel wheels and shaving weight off the body for the majority of the improvements.

BTW I dont have a corner weight system I just go low tech with one scale. I will weight the whole truck then the front (using a platform to keep the rear level), rear and individual corners. compare the numbers to the total weight to see how close it was, which its usually off a tiny bit from the total. Anyway I think even if the numbers are crude they do give you a very useful ballpark number.

 

[mathcanbefun]

Glad to help "thumbsup" I learned something as a result (at least I think?)

Just keep us posted on if that fixed it or not.

Printed perfect. I can't tell if the hole locations for the screws that go through the body are off, or if it is was my printer. But I got it together and it works fine!

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[BIGW0RM]

I'll get back to you on the exact ratio, but I recall its close to 60-65 up front and with added weigh in the wheels its only gotten better performing. It used to tumble down hills from the lack of weight now it almost drives like its a 1/10 scale, the axles actually stay on the ground most of the time. CG front to back feels like just a bit forward of center, perfect spot for it IMHO. Though I credit the steel wheels and shaving weight off the body for the majority of the improvements.

BTW I dont have a corner weight system I just go low tech with one scale. I will weight the whole truck then the front (using a platform to keep the rear level), rear and individual corners. compare the numbers to the total weight to see how close it was, which its usually off a tiny bit from the total. Anyway I think even if the numbers are crude they do give you a very useful ballpark number.

Thank you Humbolt. I’m just using any scale as shown and it appears my ratio is 61/58. Looks like I’m on the right track.

I simply spun solder wire around the inside of those thick hbx wheels. Each wheel weights 23 grams. The weight and wide stance has this thing planted! Maybe too much. It’s not light anymore! LOL.

But I wondered what front to back ratio was most popular. Thanks for sharing!


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[HumboldtEF]

Printed perfect. I can't tell if the hole locations for the screws that go through the body are off, or if it is was my printer. But I got it together and it works fine!

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Thats great!

I modeled the rear hinge using the stock hinge not the body holes but there's likely to be some variation in where they punch the holes. I also noticed as I was printing a few different iterations of the hinge the body ended up moving around a few mm even though I left all of the mounting holes in the same place. Maybe it warped, though I'm not really sure. I slotted the hinge holes a bit (on the body) to get my current set of parts aligned.


EDIT: I just had my truck throttle itself for a second while I was typing! WTF? battery was down to 3.77 a cell

 

[HumboldtEF]

How much more weight do you guys put up front? Right now mine is about 10g heavier up front. And my battery is in stock location.

From the looks of them trays your weight must be 70% or more up front?

I know more up front helps. But at what point is it too much? How do you gauge that guys? Im genuinely curious.

Keep in mind I've shaved some weigth off the body and roll cage, total weight is 9.4 oz/267 g, front 5.2 oz rear 4.1 so its sitting at 56/44 front to rear. Right side is heavier by a tiny bit, its from the motor.

 

[BIGW0RM]

Keep in mind I've shaved some weigth off the body and roll cage, total weight is 9.4 oz/267 g, front 5.2 oz rear 4.1 so its sitting at 56/44 front to rear. Right side is heavier by a tiny bit, its from the motor.

Impressive! Perhaps I’ll try “fit” life on mine. Mine is a fat bastard right now. [emoji23]


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[Deezul]

I need a battery tray like that.

 

[scxscaler]

Got a buddy that printed up some of your parts for my 2nd build. Gonna be going for Preformance over scale this time around. Can’t wait to see what you come up with next.


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[HumboldtEF]

I need a battery tray like that.

Do you know anyone with a printer? The files are available for free. I suppose even if you dont know someone with a printer you may be able to search for a local who offers 3D printing services.

Got a buddy that printed up some of your parts for my 2nd build. Gonna be going for Preformance over scale this time around. Can’t wait to see what you come up with next.


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Nice, I'm going the other way (sort of) though I'm aiming for performance on both builds. First was a lightweight with the stock body and my second will have a hardbody, a 92' yota cab with a faux truggy rear.

I've been playing around with some Carisma oil shocks but I'm really not sure if they're gonna be worth it. I got them in hopes of getting some damping but they really dont feel like they supply any, but I've yet to run them on the truck yet so that may change. The springs are also pretty stiff and I'm not sure how I'll resolve that, I could heat them up with a lighter to soften them up but they tend to warp and change shape at that point and its hard to meter how much they change. They're also longer and use a much larger ball end/rod though I've worked up some adapters to use the stock balls.

The more I look at the shocks the more I'm thinking about just running with the stock ones and maybe filling them with grease to slow them down. I just opened them up this morning and they do have a reservoir but no piston, just a button head screw

 

[scxscaler]

Do you know anyone with a printer? The files are available for free. I suppose even if you dont know someone with a printer you may be able to search for a local who offers 3D printing services.







Nice, I'm going the other way (sort of) though I'm aiming for performance on both builds. First was a lightweight with the stock body and my second will have a hardbody, a 92' yota cab with a faux truggy rear.



I've been playing around with some Carisma oil shocks but I'm really not sure if they're gonna be worth it. I got them in hopes of getting some damping but they really dont feel like they supply any, but I've yet to run them on the truck yet so that may change. The springs are also pretty stiff and I'm not sure how I'll resolve that, I could heat them up with a lighter to soften them up but they tend to warp and change shape at that point and its hard to meter how much they change. They also longer and use a much larger ball end/rod though I've worked up some adapters to use the stock balls.

The more I look at the shocks the more I'm thinking about just running with the stock ones and maybe filling them with grease to slow them down. I just opened them up this morning and they do have a reservoir but no piston, just a button head screw

I put 100k diff fluid in my stock ones. Works so much better than grease.


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[HumboldtEF]

Thanks I'll give that a try first "thumbsup"
its surely easier to clean out vs grease, Highest I have is 10k ATM though.

I was thinking the button head that is the "piston" could have some slots cut in it but thats probably not even needed.

 

[HumboldtEF]

Well my 2nd SCX24 just had the ESC go out on it while I was driving it last night, its flashing a error code I think.

I thought at first the battery port had come loose as I was able to wiggle it a little and get the light to come on solid for a few seconds but even then if I steer it would immediately brown out and shut off (black out?).

I was hoping to keep this 2nd one stock and do some comparison video against the mods I've done. Now I'm wondering if I'll ever get around to that. Maybe I'll try out the BR mini ESC I have in the mean time... hmm I wonder if the receiver will still work on its own now?

 

[scxscaler]

Got the printed parts in. Amazed at the difference it made in the truck. Very well designed stuff [emoji1303]

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[HumboldtEF]

Sweet, good to hear!

So I dug into the 2nd truck a bit more to see whats up with the ESC and after unplugging the servo it works fine! thats great news for me because I just happen to have a spare servo from swapping in a new one on the Red rig. Plugged in the spare in it works just fine and doesn't cut out.

I used a Ecopower 640T (from Protec/Amain) servo on my Red rig, its a bit bigger and I had to use the provided spacers but I got it to fit. The provided horn had holes in a different spot so I drilled my own hole at the stock length in between the others (and off to the side). I was waiting till I got a bit more wheel time to see how it felt as it replaced the servo and eliminated the servo saver at the same time so of course it will be better. The stock receiver seems to be powering it just fine. It not a cheap servo by any means but I dont mind splurging now and then (actually quite often lol). this thing puts out 64 oz in or 13 kg cm, not sure where stock sits but lower for sure.

you can see the spacer here

I dont think this will clear the stock bumper without some hacking and I think you may end up cutting off the bumper mount points which are kind of needed. I had to notch my bumper as well.

And heres quick tease of the yota truggy I have planned, but I'm waiting till I do the stock vs modded video first.

Getting the wheels to clear at full compression and full lock was a bit tricky as I didn't want to do much trimming but I did some.

 

[BIGW0RM]

Sweet, good to hear!

So I dug into the 2nd truck a bit more to see whats up with the ESC and after unplugging the servo it works fine! thats great news for me because I just happen to have a spare servo from swapping in a new one on the Red rig. Plugged in the spare in it works just fine and doesn't cut out.

I used a Ecopower 640T (from Protec/Amain) servo on my Red rig, its a bit bigger and I had to use the provided spacers but I got it to fit. The provided horn had holes in a different spot so I drilled my own hole at the stock length in between the others (and off to the side). I was waiting till I got a bit more wheel time to see how it felt as it replaced the servo and eliminated the servo saver at the same time so of course it will be better. The stock receiver seems to be powering it just fine. It not a cheap servo by any means but I dont mind splurging now and then (actually quite often lol). this thing puts out 64 oz in or 13 kg cm, not sure where stock sits but lower for sure.

you can see the spacer here

I dont think this will clear the stock bumper without some hacking and I think you may end up cutting off the bumper mount points which are kind of needed. I had to notch my bumper as well.

And heres quick tease of the yota truggy I have planned, but I'm waiting till I do the stock vs modded video first.

Getting the wheels to clear at full compression and full lock was a bit tricky as I didn't want to do much trimming but I did some.

I had a bad servo do the esc thing on me too.

This servo is cheap strong and fits 95% perfectly in case you’re not happy with your horn.

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[HumboldtEF]

I had a bad servo do the esc thing on me too.

This servo is cheap strong and fits 95% perfectly in case you’re not happy with your horn.

Thanks for the suggestion, my other rig that I'm putting the Yota body on will need a smaller/shorter servo to clear the grill something close to the stock size.

Any Idea what its rated at? the listing I found had no info at all on size or other specs.

EDIT: nevermind I found some specs, 21-28 oz in

 

[HumboldtEF]

I got the Yota cab painted and the rear cage designed and printed. I'm not totally satisfied with the cage its a bit too big and heavy so I'll likely re-do that later.
Paint is Tamiya TS-78 Field gray, hood is TS-6 matte black and the fender is gray primer. I did a wash on the whole body and added some real rust paint to the primered fender.

The body came from AMT, its a 1/20 scale '92 Toyota model kit.

I got the body all mounted and was about to test drive it when my 2nd servo went haywire it would be an easy fix except I have a lot less space with the Yota cab.

In the mean time here's some poser shots :mrgreen:

This angle shows how the cage just looks a bit too big at the rear

I set it up to use the rear hinge that I made to lower the stock body, it flips back farther than stock.

 

[Brake Weight]

Looks nice. If you made the 45* braces on the cage more tubular and dovetailed it a little bit it’d be even nicer.

Good job. Thumbs up [emoji106]

 

[HumboldtEF]

Thanks

I modeled up a new cage with a bit more angle last night, was up till 3 am and then my printer decided to have an error pop up so I can print it
Likely a bad temp sensor or wire, I'll see if I can hunt it down today.

EDIT: After some troubleshooting it looks like I'll need to wait on a new temp sensor, I was hoping it would just be a simple wire repair. It started printing this cage last night and half of the print came free and stuck to the nozzle, it was really coated good so I took a wire brush to it to start the cleanup and thats when the sensor just stopped reading. So its partly my fault I suppose and I'll just buy them myself instead of asking Prusa for help.

 

[Natedog]

Wow, really diggin the modifications, Yota body is sweet, agreed on more tubular (and not as thick) cage. 8)