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Whittling on a SCX24

Wow it's been FOREVER since I made a post here! Kinda got out of the crawling scene for a while but picked up 2 SCX24s last night and can't wait to get started! You guys are reigniting my interest (obsession) with micros again.

I did compare the SCX24 to my highly modded Trail Trekker last night and man that Trekker is heavy! But it crawls like a goat. Was actually going to swap the wheels and tires from it to the SCX24 but I don't know that I like the reduction in size. They're RC4WD beadlocks with Mickeys. Also almost picked up the '92 Yota kit when I bought them last night, too, but decided to wait. I saw another thread where someone did a Nissan so I may go that route, or I may actually go the Datsun route. Decisions decisions.

Anyway don't want to jack your thread. Just really excited to see micros coming back and very much looking forward to getting back into them! Really like all the 3D printed stuff you've done Humboldt. Looks great dude!
 
Thanks Sh0rtBus I appreciate it. Welcome back!

These are my first micros and they sure have been a lot of fun to tinker with. The other day I was thinking how If I had gotten a Gelande mini I'd probably have a hard time bringing myself to mod it too heavily. With this SCX24 its so simple and the body is only lexan so modding is not really something I worry about, and it really responds well to mods.

I got my 3D printer up and running last night (I had to replace my extruder temp sensor) and printed out the new rear cage, I just have a crap ton of stringing to clean up first. I should probably try to play with my retraction settings to see if I can get less stringing.
 
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Thanks

I modeled up a new cage with a bit more angle last night, was up till 3 am and then my printer decided to have an error pop up so I can print it :cry:
Likely a bad temp sensor or wire, I'll see if I can hunt it down today.

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EDIT: After some troubleshooting it looks like I'll need to wait on a new temp sensor, I was hoping it would just be a simple wire repair. It started printing this cage last night and half of the print came free and stuck to the nozzle, it was really coated good so I took a wire brush to it to start the cleanup and thats when the sensor just stopped reading. So its partly my fault I suppose and I'll just buy them myself instead of asking Prusa for help.


That cage is sweet! Wasn’t all that excited about the SX24 but now I think I might have to get one and trugify it!
 
well I didn't end up needing to use that, I just had one on hand. I think its probably a bit overkill though.
 
Here's the new rear cage cleaned up and weathered. It came in about half the weight of the old version, its .5 oz compared to .9 oz.

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I cut out a piece of styrene to cover the bed
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I should get the replacement servo tonight, another Eco Power 640 servo. Its gonna be a tight fit but I think it will just clear.

I just noticed this also makes for a good kickstand
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I just weighed both of my trucks and I'm surprised that the Yota has come in just a touch lighter and I've "added lightness" as much as I could to my red rig.

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EDIT: I figured out the difference in weight was entirely from the larger protec servo I had added to the Deadbolt
 
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I probably will eventually, I need to make some alterations first and the file has gotten pretty buggy as I changed the design and I keep getting error codes when I try to do normal things.
 
Done a few things off of this thread to her. I thought I would share my build with y’all. Old man emu shocks (Droop set up with no springs, until I can find soft enough for Droop), 3mm wheel spacers & relocated electronics…But will be installing a castle esc and maybe a 380 revolver (weeeevolver!) soon. Have the RC4WD scrambler tires coming in a couple days. Also, four wraps of golf club lead tape around each inner wheel. (I know, I know, rotational mass!) And they were out of black wheels, so I made (painted) them myself! This is really a fun little rig!

May the force be with you!!! ;-)

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I finally got around to adjusting the rear cage to fix it. Its posted up on Thingiverse now, I also added a template to make cutting out the top panel simple (just scale it down to 99.5% or so). The cage uses a taller hinge than the other hinge I have so make sure to print it too.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3860635

That looks sweet. I would love to print that for my Yota.

Yea are you going to make that available to print?

Just getting your attention, cage is up now.
 
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Not to murder the Star Wars references to death! But I put new breath into this thread like Anakin Skywalker’s new suit after he was burned!:lmao:

I wish I had a 3-D printer… I love y’all’s ingenuity and creativeness! But after all, that’s what this hobby is all about! T.A.F.J. And no love on my 1/24 G.O.A.T? I thought we were all friends here… :roll::cry:
 
Hey that looks good, did you use the front battery mount?
Are those shocks meant to hold oil, or is it internal springs only?

I didn't notice the driver at first so I wasn't getting the Star Wars references lol, I honestly though you knew my birthday (which i think is listed here), I get a lot of "May the 4th" be with you comments.
 
I haven’t done the front mount yet. They are designed to hold oil, but I am running them sans Springs and just a couple drops of oil for lubrication. Not dampening. ($35 for all four with different springs)
That would’ve been funny if I knew your birthday! I actually went to the same high school as George Lucas (Go Knights!). So I am a de facto Star Wars fan!
 
They are designed to hold oil, but I am running them sans Springs and just a couple drops of oil for lubrication. Not dampening. ($35 for all four with different springs)
Does it give a recommended oil weight? They seem like infernally spring friction shocks, not oil shocks meant to hold oil like the carisma MSA1-E shocks. Does it have internal baffles to control oil? It would be interesting to have a second oil shock option, but I would have expected them to mention it in the description.



Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
They’re completely sealed and are exactly like the 10th scale old man emu internally. To be safe though, if I were to completely fill them I would run them upside down. Like how they measure travel distance without the internal spring. Sometimes their descriptions aren’t thought out very well. Now I can’t remember whether the internal washer has holes or not… ? i’ll have to look later.
 
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