My mother in law got me the Reef’s one for my last birthday. I wanted it to toss in my lipo bag when I go to the local track just in case I need to fix something. So far it’s served it’s purpose just fine, but the tips do not have anywhere near the precision fit as much Vanquish hex drivers. Not that I was expecting that, but they’ll do okay for occasional use.
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What hex drivers you using?
- Thread starter throttlejock27
- Start date
My mother in law got me the Reef’s one for my last birthday. I wanted it to toss in my lipo bag when I go to the local track just in case I need to fix something. So far it’s served it’s purpose just fine, but the tips do not have anywhere near the precision fit as much Vanquish hex drivers. Not that I was expecting that, but they’ll do okay for occasional use.
Kingmeow
Quarry Creeper
I would caution throwing tools, especially (relatively) sharp ones like hex drivers, into your lipo bag. Keep lipos separate from anything else (other than other lipos).
The bits all store in the handle and the handle stores in a case so no worries. Nonetheless, good advice.
MOguy
Rock Crawler
It is convenient.
I have tried a few brands (Wiha, bondhus sp?, etc) and I just dont like screwdriver style handled drivers. I'm not sure where I bought the blank hex keys, but I just made my own mini T-handle set in the 3 most used sizes. Brazed about 6" of the blank into a piece of steel for the handle. Tip goes dull, hit it with a grinding wheel. Bought a few blank ball tips too. Iirc i bought the keys at McMaster carr
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I'm using MIP Gen 1, ProTek, Bondhus, Wiha, Wera and even Turnigy. I stick mainly to MIP though. As stated below, if I had to do it all over again I am not sure I would have paid the money for those. They only offer a very short hex tip so you can't really cut or grind the shaft for a fresh tip (that's what she said). You also can't replace the shafts in MIP handles like you can in ProTek and even cheapo Turnigy.
I have to laugh at MIP. They are hyping up their Gen 2 with size etching in the tool rather than heat shrink labels. About freaking time. They're just playing catch up there. Also, they keep bragging about the new nut drivers trading nickel for black oxide. That's a downgrade most likely in the name of cost savings and profits. Black oxide is nothing at all to brag about. It barely offers any corrosion resistance. If you want tools that rust, buy black oxide!
Got any photos of that? T-handles on small Allen wrenches is dangerous. You have all that extra leverage to strip out a screw head. :lmao: I like the screwdriver versions myself. Some have hex shanks and others have replaceable tips. The well-loved and much-hyped MIPs do not have any of these features.
I have to laugh at MIP. They are hyping up their Gen 2 with size etching in the tool rather than heat shrink labels. About freaking time. They're just playing catch up there. Also, they keep bragging about the new nut drivers trading nickel for black oxide. That's a downgrade most likely in the name of cost savings and profits. Black oxide is nothing at all to brag about. It barely offers any corrosion resistance. If you want tools that rust, buy black oxide!
Got any photos of that? T-handles on small Allen wrenches is dangerous. You have all that extra leverage to strip out a screw head. :lmao: I like the screwdriver versions myself. Some have hex shanks and others have replaceable tips. The well-loved and much-hyped MIPs do not have any of these features.
Lots of necro threads coming back lately, but at least the forum is getting activity.
I picked up this Traxxas set from the lhsa while back and I've been very pleased with them. Before these I bought a set of wera drivers. They are also nice, but the larger handle on the Traxxas is much better. I also use a set of wera nut drivers for scale hardware.
m.traxxas.com
I picked up this Traxxas set from the lhsa while back and I've been very pleased with them. Before these I bought a set of wera drivers. They are also nice, but the larger handle on the Traxxas is much better. I also use a set of wera nut drivers for scale hardware.
Premium 7-Piece Hex Bit and Nut Driver Kit | RC Tool Kit | Traxxas
The Traxxas Premium 7-Piece Hex Bit and Nut Driver Kit is the complete solution for maintaining and upgrading your favorite Traxxas rc cars, trucks, and vehicles. Precision-ground from hardened steel, Traxxas speed bits fit securely and provide years of trouble-free use. Check out this truly...
m.traxxas.com
Wiha is nice, but I've worn out two sets. Same with Bondhaus.
For RC, I had (note had) the Team Associated full kit. The bits wore out quickly, and have been replaced with the MIP equivalents. The metric set is now 6 years old and working perfectly, and the standard bits are now 2 years old and working like new.
For RC, I had (note had) the Team Associated full kit. The bits wore out quickly, and have been replaced with the MIP equivalents. The metric set is now 6 years old and working perfectly, and the standard bits are now 2 years old and working like new.
meatmonkey
I wanna be Dave
I gotca single Locked Up 2mm driver about a year ago to test. Ended up liking it so much I got the whole set.
Prefer them over my MIP, Protek, Hudy, Associated, and other brand drivers I have. Tips fit so tight you can hang the driver sideways from a buttonhead bolt. Machined deep enough to grind down twice if you somehow do wear them out.
Prefer them over my MIP, Protek, Hudy, Associated, and other brand drivers I have. Tips fit so tight you can hang the driver sideways from a buttonhead bolt. Machined deep enough to grind down twice if you somehow do wear them out.
Rockin140
Rock Stacker
Wiha.
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Hmmmmmm I'm a cheapskate, but I will say when I need another hex driver MIP tips last the longest and cost the most. Second best are the Vanquish, except the 1.5 , they shatter quickly. As for nut drivers, my WIHA last forever.
Handles are a personal item, all i can say is feel them if you can before you buy. Looks are deceiving online.
Handles are a personal item, all i can say is feel them if you can before you buy. Looks are deceiving online.
Handy tip:
Keep some standard (non-metric) MIP drivers around.
When your metric screw heads strip out, the next size up, standard sized MIP driver can typically get them out.
MIP drivers are nice and sharp, so they often make their own corners in a rounded out screw head. Saves having to drill screw heads off (in most cases).
Keep some standard (non-metric) MIP drivers around.
When your metric screw heads strip out, the next size up, standard sized MIP driver can typically get them out.
MIP drivers are nice and sharp, so they often make their own corners in a rounded out screw head. Saves having to drill screw heads off (in most cases).
You shattered a VP 1.5mm hex? How much torque did that take? And what was the screw fastening? Did they cover it under warranty?
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Just broke the tip off, I think I was working on a diff gear and spool, I felt it was defective, VP wouldn't warranty it. I've since heard of more than a few had the issue on the 1.5 only. My 2.0 and 2,5 are flawless and well abused.
Definitely sounds defective. Spring steel should not be brittle enough to shatter.
