Benp
Rock Crawler
Nice!!!
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What did you do to your TRX-4 today?
- Thread starter Miatardo
- Start date
Mud bogger
Quarry Creeper
Got my 2200kv revolver to replace the puller pro, cant wait to drive it
23drumerboy
Quarry Creeper
Prepped & ready for surgery, Doc! My baby 'Rex needs some TLC in drivetrain/trans/F.&R. Diffs/portals, she been clicking and making noise a bit lately while in motion, so deciding to do only my 2nd tear-down, clean, re-lube of the drivetrain parts, check all bearings/clean/re-lube...and HOPEFULLY fix my rat's nest wiring! Lol.
R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.
R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.
ScaleLifeNewbie
I wanna be Dave
Prepped & ready for surgery, Doc! My baby 'Rex needs some TLC in drivetrain/trans/F.&R. Diffs/portals, she been clicking and making noise a bit lately while in motion, so deciding to do only my 2nd tear-down, clean, re-lube of the drivetrain parts, check all bearings/clean/re-lube...and HOPEFULLY fix my rat's nest wiring! Lol.
R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.
Man, I hear you. I have some clicking and sometimes grinding, I definitely need to re grease my gears for sure. Had my TRX4 for about 7ish months and never greased anything yet, shhh don’t tell!
Probably going to go to that now lmao.
I have a tube of ParkTool Bicycle grease, can I use it?
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23drumerboy
Quarry Creeper
I say, any grease, is always, ALWAYS better than NO grease! Lol i personally picked up a tube of (dont laugh) SUPER LUBE from a hardware store and have been using it across multiple RC cars, with no issues, although, if you are like me and find yourself unintentionally mud bogging the heck out of your rig, you may want to go the "Marine Grease" route, albeit, this tube i have claims its marine-worthy. I originally bought it FOR MY Trx4 Sport, and in my 7 ish months owning it have only down the teardown,clean,lube,re-build one time, roughly 2-3 months ago and have "accidentally" been headlights-deep in water a handful of time which i wasnt planning on.
My only suggestion is to make sure and very carefully either pry the "seal" off both sides of EVERY BEARING you come across, clean with brake cleaner or similar, even wd-40, then blow-dry with compressed air, and check spinning resistance. I usually grip bearing between corner of my thumb and pointer finger, (grabbing ONLY the inner bearing race, making sure to not touch any other part and create drag....you can either A:feel crud in the bearing as you spin it, or, B
nce clean and DRY, spin it hard and it should "free-wheel" for several seconds with no abnormal noise, and that tells me the bearing is re-use-able.Alternatively, if u have mad stacks in the bank you can always just replace eveey bearing, anytime you pop open the trans case, etc.
You are overdue, get'r'lubed up, son! Or your wallet may end up hurting more than a few bucks. Any lube (GREASE) should at least be ok till next rebuild
R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.
ScaleLifeNewbie
I wanna be Dave
I say, any grease, is always, ALWAYS better than NO grease! Lol i personally picked up a tube of (dont laugh) SUPER LUBE from a hardware store and have been using it across multiple RC cars, with no issues, although, if you are like me and find yourself unintentionally mud bogging the heck out of your rig, you may want to go the "Marine Grease" route, albeit, this tube i have claims its marine-worthy. I originally bought it FOR MY Trx4 Sport, and in my 7 ish months owning it have only down the teardown,clean,lube,re-build one time, roughly 2-3 months ago and have "accidentally" been headlights-deep in water a handful of time which i wasnt planning on.
My only suggestion is to make sure and very carefully either pry the "seal" off both sides of EVERY BEARING you come across, clean with brake cleaner or similar, even wd-40, then blow-dry with compressed air, and check spinning resistance. I usually grip bearing between corner of my thumb and pointer finger, (grabbing ONLY the inner bearing race, making sure to not touch any other part and create drag....you can either A:feel crud in the bearing as you spin it, or, B
Alternatively, if u have mad stacks in the bank you can always just replace eveey bearing, anytime you pop open the trans case, etc.
You are overdue, get'r'lubed up, son! Or your wallet may end up hurting more than a few bucks. Any lube (GREASE) should at least be ok till next rebuild
R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.
Thank you for the thoughtful response man. It definitely helps. I honestly didn’t even think about checking bearings.
Yeah, I mud bogged once and it was a pain to clean up! I honestly can’t begin to imagine how nasty my portals are, lol.
Nah, I should be great for another year, lmao[emoji23]
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ScaleLifeNewbie
I wanna be Dave
My first tear down/grease job on this rig. had a few bearings to replace but other than that it went smooth. Hopefully I don’t hear any clicking anymore! [emoji1696]
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
23drumerboy
Quarry Creeper
ScaleLifeNewbie
I wanna be Dave
Lmao, you sure did.
The little spacer that goes on the c-hub on the front axle(picture for reference), I am missing the top and bottom one, so I’ll have to replace those also. Does it make a difference not having them? I don’t know how long they’ve been gone, but I haven’t see a difference.
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23drumerboy
Quarry Creeper
Lol i have the same work stand as you! Hahaha love it, btw.Lmao, you sure did.
The little spacer that goes on the c-hub on the front axle(picture for reference), I am missing the top and bottom one, so I’ll have to replace those also. Does it make a difference not having them? I don’t know how long they’ve been gone, but I haven’t see a difference.
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Its not so much a spacer, as it is a "sleeve with collar" for the outer portals covers/assembly to be able to rotate freely around the screws....i would definitely grab u a bag of em on ebay/amazon/traxxas or wherever you'd like, im pretty sure a 5-10 piece bag of em would only be 3.50-8 bucks. They're (in MY mind) the sort-of-equivalent to a ball joint. Minus a hit of lateral movement. Lol.
R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.
23drumerboy
Quarry Creeper
I dont know what size the sleeves are, but here is redcat version for a 1/10 on road car.Lmao, you sure did.
The little spacer that goes on the c-hub on the front axle(picture for reference), I am missing the top and bottom one, so I’ll have to replace those also. Does it make a difference not having them? I don’t know how long they’ve been gone, but I haven’t see a difference.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.
23drumerboy
Quarry Creeper
Might even get away with TRX "shoulder screws"I dont know what size the sleeves are, but here is redcat version for a 1/10 on road car.
R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.
R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.
ScaleLifeNewbie
I wanna be Dave
Might even get away with TRX "shoulder screws"
R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.
Oh yeah, I have plenty of those! Can’t believe I “spaced” it
(I know bad pun lmao)
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Great weather so got out and ran my d110 with my buddy's 324mm w/b '76 Ford. The last time that we hit the trails, he out performed my short wheelbase Bronco but not by much. His longer 324mm wheelbase got him up the steeper inclines with less wheel-spin. Subsequently he wasn't bouncing around as much and was able to plant his rig at the top where he intended... Whereas frequently I was just lucky to make it up. That left my rig more at the mercy of simply wherever it landed... usually perched more precariously lol. The weight of his rig is also a bit lower and more biased over his front axle compared to my Bronco, which helped him out-perform me. I think his Thornbirds were getting batter traction than my Bronco's Swampers too but hard to say for sure.
But this time I left the Bronco at home and grabbed my 324mm w/b Defender with cut Boggers. My d110 is a bit heavier than my Bronco although a little lighter than his Ford but this time I was able to match him obstacle for obstacle. I probably had a little more wheel-spin than he did but I made it up without falling off the intended line most of the time. The cut Boggers really grab at the ground too and although he was running Ground Hawgs this time, both rigs remained evenly matched throughout the day and it seemed like the Boggers and Ground Hawgs performed about the same.
Anyway... here's the Ford again. Hope I'm not posting too many pics of his rig in this thread but I didn't even get any of my Defender this time. I'm ready to do a late 60's or early/ mid seventies body now that I've helped him complete his. And I really like his Ford so much better than my meh Defender. There's just so many of 'em out there now.
But this time I left the Bronco at home and grabbed my 324mm w/b Defender with cut Boggers. My d110 is a bit heavier than my Bronco although a little lighter than his Ford but this time I was able to match him obstacle for obstacle. I probably had a little more wheel-spin than he did but I made it up without falling off the intended line most of the time. The cut Boggers really grab at the ground too and although he was running Ground Hawgs this time, both rigs remained evenly matched throughout the day and it seemed like the Boggers and Ground Hawgs performed about the same.
Anyway... here's the Ford again. Hope I'm not posting too many pics of his rig in this thread but I didn't even get any of my Defender this time. I'm ready to do a late 60's or early/ mid seventies body now that I've helped him complete his. And I really like his Ford so much better than my meh Defender. There's just so many of 'em out there now.
ScaleLifeNewbie
I wanna be Dave
Great weather so got out and ran my d110 with my buddy's 324mm w/b '76 Ford. The last time that we hit the trails, he out performed my short wheelbase Bronco but not by much. His longer 324mm wheelbase got him up the steeper inclines with less wheel-spin. Subsequently he wasn't bouncing around as much and was able to plant his rig at the top where he intended... Whereas frequently I was just lucky to make it up. That left my rig more at the mercy of simply wherever it landed... usually perched more precariously lol. The weight of his rig is also a bit lower and more biased over his front axle compared to my Bronco, which helped him out-perform me. I think his Thornbirds were getting batter traction than my Bronco's Swampers too but hard to say for sure.
But this time I left the Bronco at home and grabbed my 324mm w/b Defender with cut Boggers. My d110 is a bit heavier than my Bronco although a little lighter than his Ford but this time I was able to match him obstacle for obstacle. I probably had a little more wheel-spin than he did but I made it up without falling off the intended line most of the time. The cut Boggers really grab at the ground too and although he was running Ground Hawgs this time, both rigs remained evenly matched throughout the day and it seemed like the Boggers and Ground Hawgs performed about the same.
Anyway... here's the Ford again. Hope I'm not posting too many pics of his rig in this thread but I didn't even get any of my Defender this time. I'm ready to do a late 60's or early/ mid seventies body now that I've helped him complete his. And I really like his Ford so much better than my meh Defender. There's just so many of 'em out there now.
Dont be sorry! its the best looking body ive seen in a while, although i may be bias since thats pretty much my 1:1 dream truck.
Benp
Rock Crawler
Lmao, you sure did.
The little spacer that goes on the c-hub on the front axle(picture for reference), I am missing the top and bottom one, so I’ll have to replace those also. Does it make a difference not having them? I don’t know how long they’ve been gone, but I haven’t see a difference.
.
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I’d say they are needed. My aluminum chubs came with a type of bushing. Did not work well. If I tightened them down enough to remove slop, the portal assembly would not turn. Loosen up enough to turn, there is lots of slop.
The stock bushings would not work, but I had some brass ones that fit and works better.
The fasteners need something to tighten against besides the chub. Tightening against the chub won’t allow turning. So you’ve got the bushings.
Just my thoughts anyways.
I am very interested in vitavons chubs that have bearings. Price isn’t bad, just the ride on the slow boat
Great weather so got out and ran my d110 with my buddy's 324mm w/b '76 Ford. The last time that we hit the trails, he out performed my short wheelbase Bronco but not by much. His longer 324mm wheelbase got him up the steeper inclines with less wheel-spin. Subsequently he wasn't bouncing around as much and was able to plant his rig at the top where he intended... Whereas frequently I was just lucky to make it up. That left my rig more at the mercy of simply wherever it landed... usually perched more precariously lol. The weight of his rig is also a bit lower and more biased over his front axle compared to my Bronco, which helped him out-perform me. I think his Thornbirds were getting batter traction than my Bronco's Swampers too but hard to say for sure.
But this time I left the Bronco at home and grabbed my 324mm w/b Defender with cut Boggers. My d110 is a bit heavier than my Bronco although a little lighter than his Ford but this time I was able to match him obstacle for obstacle. I probably had a little more wheel-spin than he did but I made it up without falling off the intended line most of the time. The cut Boggers really grab at the ground too and although he was running Ground Hawgs this time, both rigs remained evenly matched throughout the day and it seemed like the Boggers and Ground Hawgs performed about the same.
Anyway... here's the Ford again. Hope I'm not posting too many pics of his rig in this thread but I didn't even get any of my Defender this time. I'm ready to do a late 60's or early/ mid seventies body now that I've helped him complete his. And I really like his Ford so much better than my meh Defender. There's just so many of 'em out there now.
You just keep posting pictures of that Ford split grill. [emoji106] Fords best body.
Great description of the comparisons between the 2 on how the handled the terrain. I like that a lot.
Benp
Rock Crawler
Nice! I replaced my 2500 revolver with a PP 2700.
You get used to the noise. My whole setup has always been noisy with the Mamba x though.
The revolver did good! Strong motor and to me stronger than the 2000 Yellowjacket my Gspeed came with.
Good job!
Regarding grease, I picked up a tub of Mobil 1 synthetic for 7 bucks from the fleet store. Should last a long time. I use a craft paint brush for the applicator. That works really well applying the grease.
Thanks... appreciated
Thanks, I hate posting too much blahblah but I felt that some of my observations are relevant here since I've been keeping a close eye on his rig vs my two rigs ever since we did the recent work to his. I'm getting a great sense of how it is that all three are performing so differently from each other.
But I can tell that the days of either of my trx4's out-performing his are over lol. And that's fine... I knew that he was becoming increasingly frustrated driving his very top-heavy d110 so I'm glad for him. My longer chassis can still do everything that his revamped rig can do, although not with as much finesse so it's about time to upgrade some things... new lower cg body, maybe some new larger OD shoes and a lower cg battery tray.
As far as my shorter wheelbase Bronco-body trx4 goes, I'm able to out-do his on the rocks winding through tight turns but he's out-performing it on trail runs where there's a lot of loose dirt/ small rocks and steep hill climbs.
Maybe worth mentioning that I also had to brush up on my driving skills lol. He's about 20 yrs younger than I am so I need to make sure to show him that bragging rights can't always be taken for granted lol.
Sorry I just now came across your post while I was looking for some info on Rusty-taco's trx4. Not sure if it's still relevant but if you're referring to the skid-plate that's attached to the front bumper, it's made by Hot Racing. Not sure if the skid is sold separately or only available with the bumper. I've been happy with both. The skid-plate isn't hindering anything/ doesn't get hung up since it's tucked up in there pretty good although I initially had concerns. I wasn't even gonna use it since it's removable from the actual bumper. But I decided to keep it since it looked kinda cool. It's doing it's job keeping the occasional rock and stick from getting any closer to the servo and linkage so I'll likely keep it. Fwiw the bumper comes satin black but the skid plate is bare aluminum so I painted to match.
