skillcandylive
Newbie
noice eather way thay look great man!!!
Sent from my SM-N960W using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N960W using Tapatalk
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
What did you do to your TRX-4 today?
- Thread starter Miatardo
- Start date
mewalsh100
I wanna be Dave
I played around with some different body ideas to replace the Sport body. Actually kind of digging this Spawn body from my Wraith. Only issue I can see is how to abbreviate the front end enough to bring the bumper in. Only about a 1/2" of straight frame rail up front before it arches up. Back end is str8 forward chop. (I'd have to buy a new one in clear since this one is chopped for BGR shock towers for the Wraith). I don't think you'll see too many TRX's rolling this body any way! Opinions?????
Also ordered under drive gear set for out back, and some ARB diff covers. (Plastic red ones are just offensive to me:lmao
Also ordered under drive gear set for out back, and some ARB diff covers. (Plastic red ones are just offensive to me:lmao
Attachments
mewalsh100
I wanna be Dave
I appreciate that Kincer!"thumbsup"
I got a body for Xmas for my Bronco that I need to start working on, one of things I sold when I got out of the hobby were my lexan scissors and reamer, kept all my other tools so I don't know why I sold those lol. I'll be picking up a new set Saturday and get started on that. I've been putting so much time in those mini Yotas my poor Bronco has been just sitting.
Exiwolfman
Quarry Creeper
Run no front or rear bumper other option for front get the once that mount to frame directly this way it will sit deeper in.I played around with some different body ideas to replace the Sport body. Actually kind of digging this Spawn body from my Wraith. Only issue I can see is how to abbreviate the front end enough to bring the bumper in. Only about a 1/2" of straight frame rail up front before it arches up. Back end is str8 forward chop. (I'd have to buy a new one in clear since this one is chopped for BGR shock towers for the Wraith). I don't think you'll see too many TRX's rolling this body any way! Opinions?????
Also ordered under drive gear set for out back, and some ARB diff covers. (Plastic red ones are just offensive to me:lmao
As for body I love it I was thinking to use same body on my lifted trx4 and make into a bouncer/crawler...so imagine yours in pic on 5.5s and lift.
This is the bumper I have on my axial and it can be moved right in, remove mount and bolt to frame.
Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
BIGW0RM
Rock Crawler
Tore the transmission apart to find the source of clicking. Found nothing. Put it back together wrong.
Tore it back out. Corrected my mistake. Put it back in. Now it’s hanging on something inside tranny. [emoji58] Must have missed it.
Tore it apart again. But now it’s full of sticky marine grease and I’m done searching for the bugger in there.
When I started...
Oh yeah! Finally installed my Holmes 550 21t. Bummer I didn’t get the transmission fixed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tore it back out. Corrected my mistake. Put it back in. Now it’s hanging on something inside tranny. [emoji58] Must have missed it.
Tore it apart again. But now it’s full of sticky marine grease and I’m done searching for the bugger in there.
When I started...
Oh yeah! Finally installed my Holmes 550 21t. Bummer I didn’t get the transmission fixed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
dr frankenstyle
Rock Crawler
It looks like you brought home some of the shore-line from your run beside the water. ;-) From the sand in the skid-plate, you probably got a little in the gears too. As snug as the gears are, it wouldn't take much at all to give you a problem. It sounds like a grain or two may have been hiding in there, waiting to jinx ya. :evil: and grease won't help with that.
That's a bummer.8)
BIGW0RM
Rock Crawler
Marine grease is a bitch. But at least I’ll know to how to rebuild this sucker and hopefully fix the click!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BIGW0RM
Rock Crawler
It looks like you brought home some of the shore-line from your run beside the water. ;-) From the sand in the skid-plate, you probably got a little in the gears too. As snug as the gears are, it wouldn't take much at all to give you a problem. It sounds like a grain or two may have been hiding in there, waiting to jinx ya. :evil: and grease won't help with that.
8)
You are 100% right. Sand got all up in there. And when I reinstalled it a 2nd time, I suspect my table was contaminated with sand and dirt and I probably got more sand in it with all that grease. I was trying to get inside it as I put it together again not really knowing what I was doing other than watching a video.
I know not to grease the diff locker. And to be sparring with it on portals.
But is it not advised to pack the tranny and transfer case?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
dr frankenstyle
Rock Crawler
It's best to just smear a nice coat on the gears, the extra isn't doing any good. I usually use a little grease around the mating edges of the cases too, like a gasket to help seal out dirt and moisture. I say "help" because you can't seem to keep everything out, especially if you're running in extra wet or dirty conditions. I just plan to do a tear-down after I run in water or lots of loose dirt. (not much sand around here :lmao
It doesn't take much to cause problems, so it helps to keep it all fresh and clean. ;-) Good luck ... you'll get it. "thumbsup"
8)
Topher Builds
I wanna be Dave
Added HR shock mounts to the front and rear. In doing so I had to ditch the front fenders and integrated battery tray so I picked up the CI front mount electronics plate and am using the front plate for the battery now. This has a little shelf that comes out next to the motor so I mounted my ESC up there for the time being. It sits kind of high so not sure if it will stay there.
I then took the old front tray and laid it on the back of the rails with some double sided tape then shoe goo’d the receiver box onto it. Have everything running up the middle now.
I then took the old front tray and laid it on the back of the rails with some double sided tape then shoe goo’d the receiver box onto it. Have everything running up the middle now.
Attachments
Last edited:
ray4624
Newbie
First crawler is in the mail (trx 4 defender roller)
Dropped by the lhs yesterday and picked this up.
Defender body also on the way.
This is the 2280kv so I think stock spur/11t should suffice.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dropped by the lhs yesterday and picked this up.
Defender body also on the way.
This is the 2280kv so I think stock spur/11t should suffice.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Exiwolfman
Quarry Creeper
Drove it in the snow lol and added a roof rack
Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
dr frankenstyle
Rock Crawler
Took the new wheels out for a drive. 
We got a little snow again too. ;-)
8)
We got a little snow again too. ;-)
8)
mewalsh100
I wanna be Dave
Got the underdrive gear set installed out back and the ARB diff covers on. I was not super pleased with the hole spacing on the ring gear though compared to the spool. I could get 3 screws in, but the 4th was just not lining up. Clocked it 180, then just got about 2 threads in on each screw. Ended up opening one of the holes up a c-hair with a drill bit. Finally got them all in and properly seated. Should not have had to go through all that though for a $40 ring and pinion!
dr frankenstyle
Rock Crawler
Installed the HW-1080 ...
... then I hit rock bottom. By that I mean I dropped the gearing as low as I could find... 8T pinion. ;-)
It took a little filing and a spacer to set the motor back a little ...
...but it went together nicely and seems to be working great! "thumbsup"
8)
... then I hit rock bottom.
By that I mean I dropped the gearing as low as I could find... 8T pinion. ;-)
It took a little filing and a spacer to set the motor back a little ...
...but it went together nicely and seems to be working great! "thumbsup"
8)
mewalsh100
I wanna be Dave
I got the Proline Commanche body trimmed up, painted and mounted. I had to do a good bit of trimming on the fenders to get the clearance I wanted/needed. The wheel arches trimmed to the Proline specs/lines are actually quite small. Probably better suited to a 1.5.
Anyway, I went pretty subtle with that and I think it turned out pretty well. I did screw up my solution for magnetic mounting though. I was using the RTR Sport body as a reference for trimming along the rocker line. I forgot to take in to account that the body posts were no longer going to pass through the holes, thus having it sit about 1/8" to 3/16" higher. Long story short, I took a little too much off the bottom of the rocker line, and you could see in to the chassis area looking level on at it. So, since I was flat blacking the hood and using bedliner in the bed, I said screw it and just drilled holes for posts. My thought being the posts would not stand out to bad in the black areas. Guess I'll save my magnets for the next body!:lmao:
I'm stoked about the finish I got spraying the outside of the body though. It's got a nice, dull satin look to it,which is exactly what I was going for. I used the Rust-Oleum 2X Paint + Primer that bonds to plastic. I think it's going to hold up well. I had a couple "oops moments" working on the body after and not a scratch. Still trying to decide if I'm going to weather this one or not?
Masking and painting was a total pain in the a-- though. I had to mask the body for flat black hood and also bedliner for the bed, rockers and fender flares. Shot the blue and let it set up for 24 hours. Then, had to mask the blue and also the flat black hood area to shoot the bedliner. Shot the bedliner and let it set up for a few hours - it cures pretty quick. Then, had to mask the whole body again save for the hood so I could shoot the flat black. I also had to make outside window masks, and outside masks for the headlights and taillights as I plan on letting LED's shine through the stickers for running lights. Also did this on a SUMO body i did and it worked out really well. I also had to mask and shoot blue, black and bedliner on the inside so that if I get exterior scratches, they'll be color matched on the inside. I don't think I've ever spent that much time masking, and I don't want to again!:lmao:
I also ordered up a GEARHEAD RC roof rack with TORCH LED lightbar, switch harness and 4 way expander for the running lights I mentioned.
I'm still trying to find a good set of bumpers for front and rear and would love some recommendations. I think I'd prefer a Stinger type up front and fairly simple rear. I've looked at Werty, ScalerFab, YeahRacing, KYB.
Anyway, I've still got some detail work to do on the body. Knock in the body lines with black, paint the door handles, paint the Jeep logo. Also think I'm going to throw a Spawn interior in her."thumbsup"
Anyway, I went pretty subtle with that and I think it turned out pretty well. I did screw up my solution for magnetic mounting though. I was using the RTR Sport body as a reference for trimming along the rocker line. I forgot to take in to account that the body posts were no longer going to pass through the holes, thus having it sit about 1/8" to 3/16" higher. Long story short, I took a little too much off the bottom of the rocker line, and you could see in to the chassis area looking level on at it. So, since I was flat blacking the hood and using bedliner in the bed, I said screw it and just drilled holes for posts. My thought being the posts would not stand out to bad in the black areas. Guess I'll save my magnets for the next body!:lmao:
I'm stoked about the finish I got spraying the outside of the body though. It's got a nice, dull satin look to it,which is exactly what I was going for. I used the Rust-Oleum 2X Paint + Primer that bonds to plastic. I think it's going to hold up well. I had a couple "oops moments" working on the body after and not a scratch. Still trying to decide if I'm going to weather this one or not?
Masking and painting was a total pain in the a-- though. I had to mask the body for flat black hood and also bedliner for the bed, rockers and fender flares. Shot the blue and let it set up for 24 hours. Then, had to mask the blue and also the flat black hood area to shoot the bedliner. Shot the bedliner and let it set up for a few hours - it cures pretty quick. Then, had to mask the whole body again save for the hood so I could shoot the flat black. I also had to make outside window masks, and outside masks for the headlights and taillights as I plan on letting LED's shine through the stickers for running lights. Also did this on a SUMO body i did and it worked out really well. I also had to mask and shoot blue, black and bedliner on the inside so that if I get exterior scratches, they'll be color matched on the inside. I don't think I've ever spent that much time masking, and I don't want to again!:lmao:
I also ordered up a GEARHEAD RC roof rack with TORCH LED lightbar, switch harness and 4 way expander for the running lights I mentioned.
I'm still trying to find a good set of bumpers for front and rear and would love some recommendations. I think I'd prefer a Stinger type up front and fairly simple rear. I've looked at Werty, ScalerFab, YeahRacing, KYB.
Anyway, I've still got some detail work to do on the body. Knock in the body lines with black, paint the door handles, paint the Jeep logo. Also think I'm going to throw a Spawn interior in her."thumbsup"
