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What are you working on??

Thanks, the paint bled through the tape so my lines aren't to my liking.
But it's just me being finicky.
Put a few scratches on it and it'll be fine.
 
A little preflight:
9bf07982ac065126a2cb003c0d68c593.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Getting ready to start a big project at work. Going to put this "glider" kit together. We had a truck wreck and I've got all the parts to put it together. I love getting to build one like this, I get to mount things where I want and make things easier to get to. Going to rebuild motor, tranny, and rear ends before putting them in.





 
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Waiting.

Karen ordered me an SCX10 II on Friday, the order went through but the payment did not because of the internet attacks.

She made sure to tell me that it must be fate because that's the second time she's ordered it and the second time something has gone wrong.
LOL

Later last night she placed the order again and my RTR is on its way!!!!

I have no idea whether I will get it when it arrives, or if I will get it for Christmas.

But I have an SCX-10 II XJ RTR on it's way!!!!!

TOTALLY STOKED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
So, my II came today!!!
I put my Nukizer lid on it and was going to test it out, but the battery I put on the charger did not charge.
Trying to figure out if it's the charger or the battery.
I also discovered a problem that only applies to me: the battery tray isn't really 7 cell nimh friendly.
But that's minor and I'll figure something out!!!
 

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So the bomber paint job was a total disaster. I knew better than using Krylon paint...
I grabbed some DOT4 brake fluid and removed the paint. The black Krylon melted away within 10 minutes. I gave the panels a few baths in the DOT4 to make sure the surface was as good as possible.
It leaves a graying. These pictures show it before I took some scotchbrite and scuffed it up.
It isn't that bad. I hope the paint hides the graying well.

I thought I would post this here, in case anyone hasn't done it before.




 
So the bomber paint job was a total disaster. I knew better than using Krylon paint...
I grabbed some DOT4 brake fluid and removed the paint. The black Krylon melted away within 10 minutes. I gave the panels a few baths in the DOT4 to make sure the surface was as good as possible.
It leaves a graying. These pictures show it before I took some scotchbrite and scuffed it up.
It isn't that bad. I hope the paint hides the graying well.

I thought I would post this here, in case anyone hasn't done it before.




 
Working on the Nukizer.
Addressing the minor issues I have encountered:
Heated the battery tray and stretched/formed it to fit my 7 cell nimh packs a little better.
Along with everyone's SCX-10 II issue: approach and departure angles from the bumpers sticking out too far.
My solution?
Remove front bumper(f*** the winch, I rarely use it).
Remove rear bumper mounting crossmember and replace it with the rear bumper mounting crossmember from an SCX-10 and force the stock II bumper back in place.

STILL can't get pics to upload here......
:roll:
 
I've picked up yet another eBay special ascender. Brass axle tubes that run all the way in to the diff, Vaterra aluminum C's and knuckles and I made some fake brass brake rotors out of some 1 1/4" rod I had for scrap. The rotors don't turn so no stress on the driveline. Could have gone bigger with 1.9 wheels but it was free and that's what matters.

 
Now that I figured out how to make pics work from my new phone....

I put together a seriously redneck-ish 3rd channel servo switch for my light bar I finally decided to mount on the Nukizer.
It works, which is all that matters. :lmao:



I just used Shoe Goo to mount the light bar, figured that might as well be redneck-ish too....

 
I forgot to mention that I attempted to put red LEDs in the Nukizer headlights, until I discovered that I already used the LED controller that I thought I had as a spare...

If anyone has an Axial LED controller that needs a home, please send me a PM. :lmao:
 
i hear ya with the last minute deal. fabbed up this whole rear suspension and put the whole truck together this week finishing at midnight this morning. be a good test at bradbury tomorrow!





 
Looking to get better axles for Big Green. Mine are wore out and have a ton of play in the knuckles and the c hubs. this has been causing more roll overs then I should have happen. Noticed it a lot on the porter preserve run a few weekends ago. One of my issues I have with the old AX10 axles is the pinion angle sucks. Ive tried shimming the upper links, but it seems to take away some of my steering. I know with 4 wheel steer I shouldn't have this issue. But its there..and I don't like it lol. The way they sit now. My drive shafts are taking big hits. Where the input hangs lower than my links it really causes problems. Thought about going with metal axles, but they are pricey and I really don't need more weight. And the cheep ones...well I don't think they will hold up to the abuse. Im not willing to drop 2 bills to find out I was right. also thought about going with SSD's axle. I could get different hubs that are clocked, but, the casings have just had it. Really like to try something different.Any suggestions fellow Dawgz?
 
I'm not an axial guy so I'm not sure but don't they make brass or steel "beef tubes" that you can then clock the c hubs so you can keep your caster while clocking the pinion angle. Or just make your own, you have access to a lathe right?
 
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