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What are you working on??

Happy to help, but why would you post this in the "Maine" forum??

just curious!


I'm new here and to crawlers. Still learning my way around. If I've posted something inappropriate or in the wrong place; mods please delete or move it and let me where or what I did wrong.
 
I'm new here and to crawlers. Still learning my way around. If I've posted something inappropriate or in the wrong place; mods please delete or move it and let me where or what I did wrong.

No worries here friend!

I just went back through your build, I too think your knuckles need to be swapped side to side, this will fix your camber issue.
 
More photos of the Toro 2500kv pro 4 motor.
On first test it seems to be a bit faster than I anticipated. But does seem very smooth. I plan on playing with throttle curves a bit tomorrow.
Overall very happy with the motor. For $40 shipped from china in about a week. Not too bad.

https://goo.gl/photos/Da3mMK5KEySisx1N9

Robert, to waterproof a brushless motor, do you just conformal coating the controls board and the circuit board on the stator?
 
Robert, to waterproof a brushless motor, do you just conformal coating the controls board and the circuit board on the stator?

That's what I do. I have ran my Hobbywing motor for about 2 years in all sorts of environments, just today will I be replacing my bearings. Coating the board and maintaining your bearings / keeping everything clean is all that's required.

Check out my YouTube videos if it helps.

Waterproofing RC Electronics: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLgo_f8fXELiwKfOwbRlSBFBwRxeP88XLv
 
2804d8cb865903fb07c62e26e784f5e3.jpg


Just finished mounting these up. They are so soft and sticky that it makes em a pain to work with! They seem softer than the Pitbulls, and a bit stretchier. I intend on using them on the bomber but already had the wheels off the wraith (too lazy to remove the ones from the Bomber!)


Sent from my Jitterbug
 
Put it in your freezer for awhile and it might shrink up just enough for you to get it out.
 
Robert. Only way I got mine out was to take something close to the hole size . stick it in the hole and lightly work it. sort of prying but work your way around the bearing. should pop right out. if not you could always drill a hole in the backing plate big enough to get something in there to knock it out the back side. That would be my last resort. I wanna drive my truck way lol. Got a lot done on the Ford. Links done. rear steer all hooked up. BEC all wired and working. Got that stinger pushed in as far as I could. Now all you see is the rollers and winch hook sticking out. Should make it easier to get on stuff now. Pushed the rear bumper under a little and cut the ends down a but. No more rock hooks!! I'll work on the new body and rear winch later on. Good enough to run for now.
androtaz-68319-albums3654-60066.jpg

androtaz-68319-albums3654-60067.jpg

androtaz-68319-albums3654-60068.jpg

androtaz-68319-albums3654-60069.jpg
 
Pitbull Growlers

So I was trying to replace the bearings in my motor. Got the front with a large enough hammer, but I can't get the back one.
See picture: https://goo.gl/photos/fq5UH54FY1SLCQ6Z6
Anyone have a tool to get this out?
I don't mind damaging the bearing, as long as its out. I don't want to damage the housing tho.


Robert, might be a little messy but if you pack the center of that bearing with grease, find a punch, bolt or something of the same diameter as the armature shaft and align it over the hole and whack it the hydraulic pressure will push the bearing out, clear as mud??

Sounds crazy but I've done that a few times (mostly on pilot shaft bearings in the end of auto crank shafts though)


Sent from my Jitterbug
 
Since the old blazer is down with a bad transmission input shaft bearing, I saw my old tamiya monster beetle laying around. Still runs like new on the 8 AA batteries that have diddly for power and last even less than that. So I had a 7 cell nimh battery laying around and figured, what the hell, lets see how it does with that in there. Like night and day! The thing rips wheelies and actually has some power! I also took the diff apart, locked it so it's now posi, but then I had the wheels spinning inside of the tires, a little e-6000 took care of that.

I've got to take some time to actually figure out if all of the AA's were in series, because if they were, I should be running 12 volts not the 8.4 of the 7 cell. Since I'm cheap and have a 6 cell nimh battery laying around, I've already cut it down to 4 cell and was going to run them in series to get 13.2 volts. But don't want to fry to original circuit board. But would like the added power :mrgreen:

I got a good 30-40 minutes of wide open donut time in the snow today with the old 7 cell. I'd like to find a more powerful motor to fit in the stock rear end housing but the little I've been reading up on the old quick drive tamiya's is that a bigger motor will fry the small wiring in the circuit board, and I'm not in the place right now to totally gut the electronics and do 3s brushless like I'm dreaming of lol. I guess it's a good thing I'm going back to work tomorrow, my free time is draining my bank account!
Ben.

 
After a quick search I found they run the batteries to get 9.6 volts so glad I didn't feed it the 13.2 right off the bat. Now I have to figure out how to 9.6 volts to it. Guess 2 4 cells in series will do it.
 
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