Vs4-10 vfd trx4 issues

[Hanshotfirst]

So I’ve gone the route of a vs4-10 chassis kit with vfd and trx4 and I’m having clearance issues on the panhard at full stuff. Anyone else who has done this, where you able to get full compression on the drivers side of the suspension. My build is as fallows:
Vs4-10 chassis kit
Incision 12.3 scx10.2 links
Trx4 panhard and drag link kit
Vfd transmission
Front 3rd link spaced over to clear skid.

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[Hanshotfirst]

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[Hanshotfirst]

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[Hanshotfirst]

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[twade984]

How much further does it travel when you compress only the left side?

Your suspension will almost never compress both sides at once. It’s always one side up, one side down….


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[Hanshotfirst]

Ok that is reassuring to know, if I compress just the drivers side it will compress 95% of the way. Passenger side will compress 100% of the way. I’m new enough to building crawlers that this is my first mix and match build. I’d done some research on this particular build to know it was doable if you used all the incision parts. Good to know that this should be the result of the mixed bag of parts.
Thanks.

 

[twade984]

Personally, I’d run it. Not much else you can do anyway…

Also keep in mind the incision 90mm shocks have a fairly short compressed length compared to say the trx4 90mm shocks.

Should be a cool rig when done [emoji1303]


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[MrNotacrawler]

2 things

1-I would put a link call in the upper link mount where you have spaced out the upper link on the TRX4 axle to reinforce it. Use a longer bolt and go through both sides of the upper link mount to support the mount.
2- Get a Gspeed panhard mount to give you more options on mounting the upper link. I have a bend on one of my sets with the VS410 chassis (I have 4 of these). this will allow you to have full suspension travel with minimal touching.

 

[Hanshotfirst]

2 things

1-I would put a link call in the upper link mount where you have spaced out the upper link on the TRX4 axle to reinforce it. Use a longer bolt and go through both sides of the upper link mount to support the mount.
2- Get a Gspeed panhard mount to give you more options on mounting the upper link. I have a bend on one of my sets with the VS410 chassis (I have 4 of these). this will allow you to have full suspension travel with minimal touching.

I’m going to look into this, a hobby shop that’s close by has the Gspeed panhard mount in stock. Does one of your vs4-10 kits have trx axles and this is the route you went? I still need to do some work on the front upper link. It rubs the sour gear cover when the suspension compresses. Maybe just whittle down the cover on that side. I’m going to go with a longer bolt that will pass through the whole mount and put a ball end in the middle to stabilize it. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[MOguy]

you could move you panhard bar mount a bit forward, rotate the axle back a bit. Your should rotate you axle back a bit any. A little positive caster will give you a bit more room and increase your steering ability.

AS far as the rubbing, get some high clearance links. You can turn them around, but the bend in what ever direction you want. You can get a set on high clearance links on amazon for about $20 bucks.

When you start mixing and matching components you need to get creative esp if you are using TRX stuff. Most stuff is axial based.

 

[MrNotacrawler]

I’m going to look into this, a hobby shop that’s close by has the Gspeed panhard mount in stock. Does one of your vs4-10 kits have trx axles and this is the route you went? I still need to do some work on the front upper link. It rubs the sour gear cover when the suspension compresses. Maybe just whittle down the cover on that side. I’m going to go with a longer bolt that will pass through the whole mount and put a ball end in the middle to stabilize it. Thanks for the suggestions.

Hi, yes i had one with TRX4 Axles then changed it to 10III portals. But, i know i just took a bit off the bottom skid for the vfd to clear the Drive Shafts. In another one i spaced out the Panhard mount away from the rails by just putting 2 2mm spacers which allowed just enough clearance with some ssd axles i had. Another one i put a bend on the panhard just slightly to clear. I know the upper front link needed a bend on one just to clear the skid.

Take your time and just look at it. It is best to do it with the springs removed from the shocks to have the suspension as compressed as possible to get a better look at what you should do. Hope that helps. Work on it a little at a time that is the fun of this hobby and look around the forums as there are many people here who have done similar things to give you an idea.

 

[Hanshotfirst]

Thanks for all the replies everyone. I’m going to get it running, see how it does and then move forward with the info provided here.