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Veeper Custom Scaler Build

Rubiclod

Rock Stacker
Joined
Apr 16, 2012
Messages
68
Location
Vancouver
Well, i bought a used and abused Venom Creeper off one of those auction sites. Poor thing was in such bad shape it could barely move its own weight. So full rebuild is in store, why not build a scaler :idea:

Bought a SCX10 chassis and with little modification mounted the Creeper tranny inside the frame rails. Kept the original lower links mounted to the tranny, located and drilled holes to mount the upper links.


Bolted on some Integy shocks
IMAG0203_zpsbaf5fff2.jpg


Unsure about these driveline angles, adjustment may be required
 
Got a little anxious and bolted on some 2.2 Mud Slingers I had laying around and set on my Crawler King body


I like what I'm seeing, still undecided on 1.9 or 2.2
 

Well, since I like what I see on this mock up, I gotta blow it all apart replace all bearings and any damaged internals/gears.

Still unsure about the driveline angles, any ideas/opinions?
 
The drive line angle does look a little steep.you might also have to raise the upper links on the axle housing too.
 
The drive line angle does look a little steep.you might also have to raise the upper links on the axle housing too.

So raising the uppers on the axle changes the anti-squat, and widening reduces torque twist? Does lowering the uppers on the frame achieve the same goal? My uppers both f&r mount 3/8" lower than the stock Creeper frame.
 
Try lengthening the upper links. Good looking rig!

-Corrupt

Thanx for the input. I have messed with lengthening the uppers and the pinion rolls up to a good angle, but the d/l angle at the tranny output doesn't change much if any. I'm thinking maybe I'm gonna have to lower the tranny a little.
 
food for thought, side plate and some spacers. lower the trans to just below the the frame rails..
 
So raising the uppers on the axle changes the anti-squat, and widening reduces torque twist? Does lowering the uppers on the frame achieve the same goal? My uppers both f&r mount 3/8" lower than the stock Creeper frame.
Having your upper links level or slightly going downward to the chassis is what helps with the torque twist.What I've found with all my TLTs and my venom is if you can get your upper links close to the same length as the lower links help with the flex steer, that the reason I run mine wide(more room to make them longer).Lowering the upper links on the chassis will work also ,as long as you don't get them so low that they get hung up on things.
 
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I tore the rear axle apart today, JB Welded the diff, replaced all the bearing, no wonder this thing was struggling to move, all the axle bearing were toasted and the outer pinion bearing had come apart. Anyway I decided to make some rear lockouts using 3/4" pvc. First I had to shave the knuckles down.


Then I cut two pieces of pvc pipe at 1-5/16" and drilled one end using a 3/4" drill bit going 3/8" deep to accept the shaved knuckles



Epoxy the knuckles into the pvc, locate the two opposing screw holes, drill and countersink
 
Watching the build...I have an Exceed Maxstone 1/10 turned into a scaler with a carbon fiber custom chassis.

Just finishing up going through it like yourself..waiting for electronics to finish it.

The pinion angles on mine are pretty steep also but are pretty straight on both ends.
 
While the lockouts are painted, I decided to shave some more off the axle housing, I had already shaved the angled shock mounts and now, following the ideas of Ratterd and others on this forum clearanced around the bottom of the diff




I'll be honest, after I epoxied the knuckles in I realized that now there is no way to change the 10x15x4 inner knuckle bearing ...oops, learning experience. Can anyone tell me do the HR Lockouts use that big bearing? How do they retain the axle bearing at the end of the housing?
 
I tore the rear axle apart today, JB Welded the diff, replaced all the bearing, no wonder this thing was struggling to move, all the axle bearing were toasted and the outer pinion bearing had come apart. Anyway I decided to make some rear lockouts using 3/4" pvc. First I had to shave the knuckles down.


Then I cut two pieces of pvc pipe at 1-5/16" and drilled one end using a 3/4" drill bit going 3/8" deep to accept the shaved knuckles



Epoxy the knuckles into the pvc, locate the two opposing screw holes, drill and countersink


i really like the Idea you have here, and rather than gluing then in you would use 3 or 4 set screws so it is still serviceable.
 
i really like the Idea you have here, and rather than gluing then in you would use 3 or 4 set screws so it is still serviceable.

Good idea,"thumbsup" that would work!!! The I.D. fits snug over the hex on the axle tube, maybe should turn down the O.D. a little and taper it out to look less clunky. For the time being, I'll have to run these.
 
So I replaced all the bearings, cleaned and greased all the gears and assembled on the chassis again with 2.2 Mud Slingers and a Honcho body


Installed a Hitec 7954sh servo for the steering duties


Still haven't decided on what body I'm gonna run, I have made the decision to run 1.9 wheels, so they are in the near future.


And also I am going to try my hand at bending and brazing a cage, just need to decide on a body, leaning towards the Proline 73 Bronco with the full top
 
Got a set of 1.9 Ripsaws with beadlock wheels in the mail today also bent some shock hoops and rock sliders. Been practicing flowing the 56% Silver brazing wire

 
Brazed some small pieces of tubing to my shock hoops for the shock mounts, unsure why I haven't seen anyone else mount shocks like this. Any thoughts? Sorry for the crappy phone pic
 
Yesterday I was at my LHS and picked up a Cherokee body so now I can get rockin on the cage, also got some Proline Super Swampers and ordered Junfac Carbon drivelines.
 
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