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Tommy's "Class Zero" Rover LR3

Thanks! I think if I stick with these wheels, they'll remain as-is with the possible exception of detailed lugs and hubs. I just wish more companies made wheels with more backspacing. Not everyone wants crazy wide track widths! :cry:

But yeah, it's way cramped in there! And I still haven't even thought about a servo winch....
What about these wheels?
Wagon Wheel White , Offset -5 (1 piece) - Scale Designs International

They also have a 4 pack for $20, and shipping for me in Canuckistan is only $7. It says they're a -5 offset, so that would tuck them in, and they're a pin mount. There seems to be room for a hub to fit on there though...
 
That's pretty interesting! If they were available molded in black, I'd likely pick up a set, but I don't want to run white ones and if I painted them you know they'd look like poopy when they get scratched. LOL! I'm rushing out the door to go to work, but I'll look into them more later. Maybe they're available in black?
 
Haha yeah, dyeing them might work. They don't have any -5 black ones in stock, but they do have -3's, which could bring you to the width you want if you don't put a hub on them and just run them with the pin mount. You aren't running huge power, so I don't see you blowing the wheels out, but you never know.... :ror:

Wagon Wheels Black , Offset -3 ( set of 4 ) - Scale Designs International

They also have the Scale Doctors V2 which look like the old Goodyear MTR's, but they aren't in stock either. Only 3.7" tall and 1.3" wide.

Scale Doctor 1,9 scale tire (v2) - Scale Designs International
 
Nice looking build! I grabbed one of these bodies as well a couple winters ago, wish I got two as well.
Great detail. Pretty durable too. I beat mine up pretty badly as a class 2 rig.

Ended up cutting the roof off and creating a dovetailed lr3 truck.
It's kinda beat now again. Not sure what I'm going to do with it now.
I love the class zero idea. It was fun to watch the c0 trail run at ecsc
 
Got the chassis link mounts tacked into place. It's got a bit too much caster, but I'll tweak that later on.
IMG_1278-L.jpg


Chassis frame rails are about 2" off the ground. Obviously, the link mounts hang way lower, but as I said earlier, it's more realistic so it'll remain that way.
IMG_1277-L.jpg


Just screwing around and mocked up a flex shot. No, the body is not mounted yet. Pretty sure I've made up my mind that this rig really needs to remain with 1.55s.
IMG_1276-L.jpg
 
Thanks! :mrgreen:

Sorry for the washed out pic, but I'm going to try to pull off this ride height. It may have to come up a bit, but hopefully not more than maybe 1/4" or so. FYI, the stuff on the hood was just used to level the body on the chassis. It's not getting a tire mounted to the hood. :ror:
IMG_1279-M.jpg
 
love both teh stock car wheels and the 155 wagons.
ride height is perfect. a C0 stock vehicle should rub imo.

with the low clearance, you may regret the hanging hangers.

really loving your vision for this. and the rare choice in body.
 
love both teh stock car wheels and the 155 wagons.
ride height is perfect. a C0 stock vehicle should rub imo.

with the low clearance, you may regret the hanging hangers.

really loving your vision for this. and the rare choice in body.

Thanks, Cory! Much appreciated. :mrgreen: I'm fine with tires rubbing, but the tires are catching pretty badly when I turn. It's not cool rubbing like the rear will do. It's kinda catching and folding over the tire as I turn and putting the servo in a bit of a bind. :cry: I'm tweaking the wheelbase (making it slightly shorter than 11.5") and I think I can make it work if I get the tires positioned just right. If not, I'll either need to raise the body, trim the lower valence just a bit, or get smaller tires. I don't really want to do any of these things!! :ror:

It wouldn't surprise me at all if I regret those link mounts. Y'all now have me second guessing my decision. I may look into something that'll provide a bit more clearance, but like I mentioned earlier, the link mounts may interfere with the driveshafts and that could be bad! :shock:
 
It wouldn't surprise me at all if I regret those link mounts. Y'all now have me second guessing my decision. I may look into something that'll provide a bit more clearance, but like I mentioned earlier, the link mounts may interfere with the driveshafts and that could be bad! :shock:

I dont think the link mounts will interfere with the driveshafts. If you notice your getting hung up on them, you could always make a skid plate in the middle. That or run the lower links off the frame, raise the upper links a bit.
 
It's a bit difficult to explain, but it all ties in to the fact that because the framerails for this thing are so close to one another, it complicates things quite a bit. I'm going to get the t-case installed and driveshafts mocked up. Once I do that, I'll see if I've got room to raise the link mounts. I'm sure it *can* happen. It's a more a matter of will it be worth it.
 
What if you made a chassis stiffiner "link" to connect the lower link mounts together, effectively creating a kinda skid? I know I've seen something similar on 1:1s.
 
Has been a great read through this thread. Always great to see a scratch built rig. One day i hope to learn to braze/weld to manufacture my own parts. Subb'ing to this one, Excited to see how it continues :D
 
What ever happened to this build? It was great to follow along and steal ideas for my own rastar lr3 haha.

Patience, grasshoppa. Wait, that's not right. Y'all have been patient. I've just been lazy.

Wait, that's not right. I've actually been really busy on my 6x6 and my 1:1 Jeep these last several months.

But in about a month or so I think I should be able to get back onto this build. So don't fret....it's not going anywhere and will be completed! "thumbsup"
 
Yep, I definitely know how other projects can push things to the side haha. Good to know you'll be back to this eventually, will be waiting :) .
 
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