Tommy's "Class Zero" Rover LR3

[Tommy R]

Awesome job so far! I also have one of these bodies, so i know how tough the interior is to work around. I still havent built mine yet because of this. Looks like you have the right idea!

That's the same reason I've had this body for over 4 years now and am only now getting serious about it! LOL! :ror: It's definitely tight quarters and presents quite the challenge, but what's the point of having functional opening doors if when you open them you see a hacked up interior showing a giant spur gear, right?? :mrgreen:

It doesn't effect the finish of aluminum I soaked a set of silver rc4ed wheels for 2 days and they are still golden,

Thanks for confirming! I'd searched and it looked like they should be fine, but knowing for sure is great! I know the open cell foams will be destroyed, but that's okay. "thumbsup"

Very cool build tommy. I like that you build allot of your stuff....

Thanks a lot! I just can't run a stock rig or one built by someone else. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but I'd never feel like it were "mine", y'know? Fabbing my own stuff really makes it feel like the truck is truly mine....and unique to some extent. That being said, there are times it sure would be nice to just buy exactly what I want off the shelf. HA!

 

[Tommy R]

Anyone know where to get these wheels? I understand they're by GCM, but I can't locate them anywhere. Are they 1.55? I hope so!

 

[Tommy R]

Crud. Just found out the wheels above are 1.9 and I don't know if that'll work with my build. Maybe? Afterall, it's a bit larger than 1/10th scale. Hmm...

 

[adamargue]

Can't wait to see more man. I have always been a fan of the realistic preforming rigs its cool to see them gaining popularity.

 

[Tommy R]

Made up a frame jig so I have confidence the chassis and suspension will be square and true. Wheelbase was set at 11.5". The jig can handle wheelbases up to 14"+.

Here's the chassis roughly mocked up at what I'm hoping will be it's ride height relative to the axles. I'll lock down the chassis' position securely before I weld on the links, etc.

Biggest issues I see (so far!) is that the rear axle has VERY little upward bump travel before it hits the chassis. I'll either have to raise the suspension, clearance the framerail for more clearance, or the most likely resolution, both. As you can see, clearance is minimal at best.

 

[Tommy R]

Considering using some Losi MRC shocks on the rear of this rig, but a quick question... The hardware for the Losi shocks are 2mm. Are there any adapters out there to allow the use of 3mm hardware with these shocks?

 

[hotwheels000]

Do you need the frame going all the way to the rear of the rig ? Cut it off if you dont and bam, lots of clearance8)

 

[Tommy R]

Do you need the frame going all the way to the rear of the rig ? Cut it off if you dont and bam, lots of clearance8)

Not a bad idea at all, Devlin! Unfortuantely, I was planning on mounting the rear shocks to the chassis so I'd really prefer to keep the rails intact. I think I'm going to raise the chassis 1/4" and notch the rails, too. It may end up being just a smidge taller than I'd planned, but I think it should still very much suit the style of the build.

Still trying to figure a way to make the Losi shocks work. I may have a solution, but time will tell if it'll pan out like I hope. In the meantime, I'm all ears on other alternatives. I wish an endlink existed that accepted the 2mm threaded shaft and converted it to be mounted with 3mm hardware.

 

[aztitan]

Take a look at the cantaliver (sp?) setup that they are using in the 2 door china jeeps mount the shocks in board of the frame rails and notch the frame too

 

[Tommy R]

Take a look at the cantaliver (sp?) setup that they are using in the 2 door china jeeps mount the shocks in board of the frame rails and notch the frame too

Thanks... My thought was to modify a Vaterra Twin Hammers cantilever setup, but I'd prefer to go conventional if I can. We'll see... This rig is going to be a big challenge compared to other builds of mine.

On to some updates!

Finished up the fancy frame jig. Chassis-to-axle placement is set. Just need to build some links and weld some mounts to the framerails.

Adequate clearance, but it may be a little tall.

Got some goodies in the mail from RC4WD today. First off are some Dick Cepek FC-II tires. They're about 3.85" tall and very narrow. I like 'em! Got them mounted on some Locked Up RC wheels.

They're 1.9s, not 1.55s, though. They look a little small relative to the size of the wheel, but if you imagine a 35" tire on a 20" wheel.....and squint....it's not too bad, I suppose.

I'm torn. I like the tires a lot, but I wish they were available in 1.55s instead. Ah well, it should be okay and I can always put different wheels/tires on it later.

Here's some comparison pics of the FC-IIs next to a 1.55 Dirt Grabber and a 1.55 Growler. Pizza cutter!

Quick mock-up. The pic makes it look like it really needs 1.55s, but it looks a bit better in person. And I'll try to bring the ride height down from this.

 

[Tommy R]

I also got more drivetrain goodies in the mail. The Disruptor (16:1) trans will send power to the Triton 1:1 t-case and the motor will be an Integy 45t.

The Disruptor came greased, but I'll put my own stuff in there before I call it done.

But wait, what's the white crap all stuck in the pinion gear? It's hard like JB Weld or epoxy. It's preventing the pinion from being installed on the motor. :x

Out comes the Exacto blade and I was eventually able to get enough of it out to allow the pinion to be installed. RC4WD really needs to address this.

Okay! The pinion is installed so let's slap the trans back together. Wait, why won't it close back all the way now?

Looks like the motor shaft is hitting the internals of the trans and preventing it from closing up like it should. Not sure how else to address this other than busting out the Dremel and shortening the shaft. *sigh*

Pretty disappointed in the quality of these parts, but I'll trudge through and get it together.... Thanks for watching!

 

[hotwheels000]

Back on the frame clearance issue.... can you build a new 4 link plate at the axle that hugs it better or, use the 4 attachment points near the pumpkin and bypass the spreader type ? That should gain you a bit of clearance.

oh, and by they way, none of your builds are simple..... your attention to details is superb

 

[aztitan]

Could you narrow the frame section in the rear only? By and inch or so allowing more movement? Or would it hit the pumpkin?

 

[Tommy R]

Back on the frame clearance issue.... can you build a new 4 link plate at the axle that hugs it better or, use the 4 attachment points near the pumpkin and bypass the spreader type ? That should gain you a bit of clearance.

oh, and by they way, none of your builds are simple..... your attention to details is superb

Thanks a lot, Devlin! That's awfully nice of you to say. I'm considering an upper link mount that is different than the one shown, but not sure just yet. A similar, but lower truss to what I have now is also feasible, but would only yield a smidge over 1/16" of travel increase. Not sure if it'd be worth the effort.

Could you narrow the frame section in the rear only? By and inch or so allowing more movement? Or would it hit the pumpkin?

Yeah, unfortunately, that would make it worse. But I could widen the rear to gain more clearance. Not sure if it's worth the effort, however.

 

[JBailey]

I really like the thought of a class 0 rig. Looks like you're moving along nicely! The mockup looks good, even with the 1.9's. Curious to see how the disruptor holds up, I'm going to have a project that'll require the same style setup. I'll be following along and keep up the good work!

 

[canadianbacon]

Got some goodies in the mail from RC4WD today. First off are some Dick Cepek FC-II tires. They're about 3.85" tall and very narrow. I like 'em! Got them mounted on some Locked Up RC wheels.

They're 1.9s, not 1.55s, though. They look a little small relative to the size of the wheel, but if you imagine a 35" tire on a 20" wheel.....and squint....it's not too bad, I suppose.

I'm torn. I like the tires a lot, but I wish they were available in 1.55s instead. Ah well, it should be okay and I can always put different wheels/tires on it later.

Here's some comparison pics of the FC-IIs next to a 1.55 Dirt Grabber and a 1.55 Growler. Pizza cutter!

Quick mock-up. The pic makes it look like it really needs 1.55s, but it looks a bit better in person. And I'll try to bring the ride height down from this.

The ones you have on there look alright, I think it's just the TR beadlock rings that make the wheels look huge, a skinny ring would help a lot.

They do make the Fun Country in 1.55, 3.74" tall and 1.42" wide. I really like the look of them in 1.55, I'll probably get a set for my Pajero.

Dick Cepek Fun Country 1.55” Scale Tires

 

[Kylar]

The ones you have on there look alright, I think it's just the TR beadlock rings that make the wheels look huge, a skinny ring would help a lot.

They do make the Fun Country in 1.55, 3.74" tall and 1.42" wide. I really like the look of them in 1.55, I'll probably get a set for my Pajero.

Dick Cepek Fun Country 1.55” Scale Tires

I was just thinking the same thing, the style of wheel looks nice on there. Its the super wide ring that makes the wheel look larger, and throws off the whole look a bit.

 

[Tommy R]

It's funny that y'all should mention that! I was going through my various "bins o' RC crap" (tm) and found these. In addition to having a lot of backspacing (perfect for a narrow track width), they're actually ever so slightly smaller in diameter than a 1.9 beadlock. The finish isn't what I want, but I may paint them gloss black so they more closely resemble a real (steel) wheel). But flat/satin black is so popular these days, maybe I'll just leave them?

With the lug nuts painted (maybe even replace them with scale hardware?) and some realistic looking hubs, I think these have potential. The overall tire diameter *may* be a bit of an issue, however. Just a smidge large, but I can always downsize to the 1.55 version later on if I need the clearance....or if I feel the 1.9s don't suit the build.

Pardon the crude mockup. :mrgreen: I absolutely adore the Trailready rings (had some on my 1:1), but I think these suit the build much better. And I may have a lead on some very fitting 1.55s that would also look pretty spiffy.

On to the chassis... I've been building links and stuff. Unfortunately, the links I'd purchased from RC4WD were too long. So I'm downsizing from 73mm to 60mm links. In the below pic, the lowers are 73mm and it just looks too long, IMO. Also, note the upper link, track bar, and even the tie rod/drag link are all sorted now. The lower link mounts are currently glued to the framerails for mockup. This is the process I'll later on use to hold them in place while I tack weld them into position.

Also shown is the approximate location for the motor and Disruptor trans. It needs to be at a pretty severe angle to clear the body/firewall and the steering servo.

You may notice that unlike normal builds the chassis link mounts hang quite a bit below the chassis. This is somewhat intentional. Most link suspensions are designed this way and while it will hurt performance compared to a recessed design, it'll be more realistic....and that's what I'm after.

The servo will mount approximately as shown. The front crossmember was removed for the pic, but will be replaced by some welded plate steel at the front. As shown, the servo will just barely clear the motor. Whew! 8)

Not to be forgotten, the rear end is coming along, as well. It'll be a semi-triangulated 4 link. Again, just waiting on the shorter lower links to arrive. They'll be here next week and then I can work on making it a roller. Still need to sort out the shocks/mounts/etc.

 

[canadianbacon]

Those HPI Stockers look a ton better, I think it might be the finish as well, not being so blingy Black doesn't look too bad, maybe the lip painted silver or something for contrast. Suspension is coming along nicely too, it's pretty damn cramped in there for everything else though :ror:

 

[Tommy R]

Those HPI Stockers look a ton better, I think it might be the finish as well, not being so blingy Black doesn't look too bad, maybe the lip painted silver or something for contrast. Suspension is coming along nicely too, it's pretty damn cramped in there for everything else though :ror:

Thanks! I think if I stick with these wheels, they'll remain as-is with the possible exception of detailed lugs and hubs. I just wish more companies made wheels with more backspacing. Not everyone wants crazy wide track widths!

But yeah, it's way cramped in there! And I still haven't even thought about a servo winch....