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Team [HOONIGAN]'s DRX(s)

What kind of motor do you guys suggest for the DRX?



As for the motor Im not sure, these are bigger cars so I suggest at least a 550 size can motor. I also think that a lower KV would be a good idea to help with the wheel spinning torque that makes these so fun. I know Kyosho is putting smaller motors in these from the factory, but I have had such good success with the CC motor its tough for me to recommend anything else.

Are you both suggesting that the stock motor is no good, doesn't last, not fast enough? I understand that RTR cars in general have a few shortcomings, but I wouldn't want to be upgrading a BL motor straight away. That adds a fair bit to the cost of the kit.
 
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I'm running the box stock system and it seems fine to me. Running it on 2s until diff parts arrive. I have not had any problems so far thru 10 battery packs.

I'm just having fun with it on tarmac and off road by myself currently. Not competing with it so I'm not sure of any short comings it may have.

I'll be running the stock system until it fails, then I'll replace it..... although I do have a NIB MMP/1410 system under the bench..... and patience is not my strong suit, hmmm......
 
Are you both suggesting that the stock motor is no good, doesn't last, not fast enough? I understand that RTR cars in general have a few shortcomings, but I wouldn't want to be upgrading a BL motor straight away. That adds a fair bit to the cost of the kit.

Im not suggesting that at all. Keep in mind my DRX was a converted nitro so I had to find the electronics. From what I have read for Viking it sounds like he has a kit version of the DRX, he is after all in Japan, so there maybe different options for this car over there. My post is simply stating if there were no electronics in the vehicle based on what I have used.

I'm running the box stock system and it seems fine to me. Running it on 2s until diff parts arrive. I have not had any problems so far thru 10 battery packs.

I'm just having fun with it on tarmac and off road by myself currently. Not competing with it so I'm not sure of any short comings it may have.

I'll be running the stock system until it fails, then I'll replace it..... although I do have a NIB MMP/1410 system under the bench..... and patience is not my strong suit, hmmm......

I would do the same thing, if its not broke don't fix it."thumbsup"
 
@ Sith lord, I also have the nitro version, hence the need for a motor;-)

Turtle, thanks for the tip, I'll be getting a pack of those gaskets.
But as a temporary solution, I used some teflon tape to make an additional
"gasket"...not sure if it works though, but hey, it's worth a try.
 
Hey guys!

I decided to get a drx ve "thumbsup" and i also have some questions:

1. I don't know which body to buy. Do you think the Fiesta has a better ground-clearance than the Subaru? And what about the Demon? It looks like its a Citroen C4 but it has different tail lights.
2. Do you think i can get that kit without the radio? It seems like the radio isnt good and I have one by myself so I dont want to get another... :shock:
3. Is there a possibility to add brake lights to a brushless? Do all bodies have lightbuckets front and rear?
4. Is there any stock-oil in the diffs?
5. Can I completely close the chassis to keep dirt out of it or does the motor get to hot?
6. Is the stock-motorcontroller good at all? It says 45A to 290A. Is that enough?
7. What does the thickness of the oil in the center diff change?

Prepare for more questions and by the way: This is the best DRX (VE) Thread!
 
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Rally noob question. Camber, toe and ride height. What is a good setup?
There are no setup sheets for the DRX.

I have a pretty neutral camber setting for dirt and tarmac, really abrasive grabby conditions I put a little negative camber in. I don't run any toe, generally pretty neutral. And I run basically a stock suspension setup, its to the point it needs a little tuning, mainly because it is getting a little sticky after all the different conditions I run in.

I like to DRX to ride at about 50% in relation to the suspension stroke, this allows it to corner better with the sway bars, but it still has the ability to droop out on bigger jumps.
 
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It would be really nice , if someone would answer my questions, too ;-)

1. I don't know which body to buy. Do you think the Fiesta has a better ground-clearance than the Subaru? And what about the Demon? It looks like its a Citroen C4 but it has different tail lights.
2. Do you think i can get that kit without the radio? It seems like the radio isnt good and I have one by myself so I dont want to get another... :shock:
3. Is there a possibility to add brake lights to a brushless? Do all bodies have lightbuckets front and rear?
4. Is there any stock-oil in the diffs?
5. Can I completely close the chassis to keep dirt out of it or does the motor get to hot?
6. Is the stock-motorcontroller good at all? It says 45A to 290A. Is that enough?
7. What does the thickness of the oil in the center diff change?
 
Hey guys!

I decided to get a drx ve "thumbsup" and i also have some questions:

1. I don't know which body to buy. Do you think the Fiesta has a better ground-clearance than the Subaru? And what about the Demon? It looks like its a Citroen C4 but it has different tail lights.
2. Do you think i can get that kit without the radio? It seems like the radio isnt good and I have one by myself so I dont want to get another... :shock:
3. Is there a possibility to add brake lights to a brushless? Do all bodies have lightbuckets front and rear?
4. Is there any stock-oil in the diffs?
5. Can I completely close the chassis to keep dirt out of it or does the motor get to hot?
6. Is the stock-motorcontroller good at all? It says 45A to 290A. Is that enough?
7. What does the thickness of the oil in the center diff change?

Prepare for more questions and by the way: This is the best DRX (VE) Thread!

I'm just getting the hang of this Rally thing myself and have one of these DRX-VE . I been running mine for a couple weeks now so I'll give you my insight for what it's worth:

1. Don't think the body matters much, personal preference. I run mine so when the chassis slaps the ground the body does not. It works fine for me and gives ennough ride height around the tires.
2. The radio does suck, first thing I changed. I got the RTR so I'm not sure if it's available without.
3. Fairly certain all bodies have light buckets. Brake lights depends on what LED system you put in.
4. There is no oi iin diffs just a light coating of black grease.
5. Yes you can cover chassis, look back thru Ty's thread he shows a picture and states is does get hot.
6. I'm running the stock Orion system and it's fine. Ran 2s until I upgraded all 3 diffs and just ran it on 3s today and wow, what a difference. The stock system did fine on 3s with no ill effects...yet.
7. I'll defer this topic to others.

Hope it helps a little. There are others that know more than I do. "thumbsup"
 
7. What does the thickness of the oil in the center diff change?

7. I'll defer this topic to others.

Hope it helps a little. There are others that know more than I do. "thumbsup"

Sounds like you answered the questions great.

As for the center differential. The thicker the oil in the diff (I.E. 30,000 weight) the more the car has 4 wheel drive, the thinner the oil (I.E. 3,000 weight) the more the car acts like a all wheel drive differential.

Does that make sense?

With thinner weight oil in the diff power is sent to the front or rear depending on which one has less resistance.

With thicker oil the differential acts more like a locked center diff always sending power to box axles.

These are the extremes of both and of course there are other weight oils, but this gives you an idea of how the center diff works.
 
Ok Thank you guys! That helped a lot!

I'm just getting the hang of this Rally thing myself and have one of these DRX-VE . I been running mine for a couple weeks now so I'll give you my insight for what it's worth:

1. Don't think the body matters much, personal preference. I run mine so when the chassis slaps the ground the body does not. It works fine for me and gives ennough ride height around the tires.
2. The radio does suck, first thing I changed. I got the RTR so I'm not sure if it's available without.
3. Fairly certain all bodies have light buckets. Brake lights depends on what LED system you put in.
4. There is no oi iin diffs just a light coating of black grease.
5. Yes you can cover chassis, look back thru Ty's thread he shows a picture and states is does get hot.
6. I'm running the stock Orion system and it's fine. Ran 2s until I upgraded all 3 diffs and just ran it on 3s today and wow, what a difference. The stock system did fine on 3s with no ill effects...yet.
7. I'll defer this topic to others.

Hope it helps a little. There are others that know more than I do. "thumbsup"

1. Which body dou you have? :roll:

2. Ok so I have to sell the radio. But nobody would ever buy it :x

3. The problem is that the LED system normally cant detect if the brushless brakes or is driving backwards. Do you know a system which explicitely supports brake and backward-driving-light (how are thy called?)?

5. @TURTLE: Are you driving this closed chassis anymore? Did you have any problems with the heat?

6. Cant wait to try it! :mrgreen:

Sounds like you answered the questions great.

As for the center differential. The thicker the oil in the diff (I.E. 30,000 weight) the more the car has 4 wheel drive, the thinner the oil (I.E. 3,000 weight) the more the car acts like a all wheel drive differential.

Does that make sense?

With thinner weight oil in the diff power is sent to the front or rear depending on which one has less resistance.

With thicker oil the differential acts more like a locked center diff always sending power to box axles.

These are the extremes of both and of course there are other weight oils, but this gives you an idea of how the center diff works.

Yeah! That makes sense! But which setup works for which ground conditions?

EDIT: Where did you get the lightbuckets of your XV-01 Thread?
 
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Ok Thank you guys! That helped a lot!



1. Which body dou you have? :roll:

2. Ok so I have to sell the radio. But nobody would ever buy it :x

3. The problem is that the LED system normally cant detect if the brushless brakes or is driving backwards. Do you know a system which explicitely supports brake and backward-driving-light (how are thy called?)?

5. @TURTLE: Are you driving this closed chassis anymore? Did you have any problems with the heat?

6. Cant wait to try it! :mrgreen:



Yeah! That makes sense! But which setup works for which ground conditions?

EDIT: Where did you get the lightbuckets of your XV-01 Thread?

1.Most guys have the Impreza or Fiesta, if you look in this thread there isn't a big difference in the two bodies. The key characteristic for a rally body is the approach angle. A shorter front end helps with landing. Both the Fiesta body and Impreza are touching the foam bumper in the front. Look through this thread, there are photos of just about every body Kyosho offers. In the end it is personal preference.

3. Look at the Rally Legends RC LED system, it has head lights, tail lights, brake lights, reverse lights and turn indicators. And yes it works with brushed or brushless set ups.

5. Yep still running the full underbody that is in this thread. It only gets hot after 20-30 minutes of driving. What I do is give it a brake for 10-20 minutes after the first battery to let it cool down and it is good to go.

For the diff settings I have put a lot of information on what settings I have used in this thread. Driving style also has a lot to do with the way you like the diffs.

XV-01 light buckets I had from another 2008 STI body I had and is now retired.
 
Another question:

Does anyone know, where the sidelights, dipped headlights and undipped headlights are and if the WRC 2008 Impreza has a rear fog light?
 
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