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Rear axle options and strength

P-J

Newbie
Joined
Feb 4, 2015
Messages
6
Location
Calgary, Canada
I'm torn, Between going with a Vanquish replacement aluminum housing, and all aluminum parts, or getting a Vanquish Rock jock centered rear assembly or, sticking with the stock plastic housing and aluminum lock outs?

The Rock jock looks the coolest, but at the end of the day I don't really care. The downfalls with this axle are having to flip the front diff and re program the ESC to spin backwards as well as the 175$ price tag.... is there any negatives drivetrain wise to reversing the ESC/motor? Is this axle actually stronger??? I don't really seem to see vanquish claim its a stronger axle?

The aluminum replacement housing has the benefit of not needing the front diff flipped, or the ESC reversed but once again is the strength increase worth the 150-200$ price tag once the diff, brackets, bearing caps, cover ect is bought?

The plastic housing has a few advantages, its in there, its cheap to replace, it seems to hold up and its lighter...

So I guess after all my ramblings, what is the consensus? Have people been breaking rear diff housings? do the rock jocks hold up? Does reversing the ESC/motor have any draw backs?

Thanks :)
 
I have VP housings.. There stronger.. But.... If I wouldn't of for a steal on them, I wouldn't own them..

With that said.. Dlux modded stock housings are the way to go..

My parts list: Dlux modded housing, beef tubes, VP bearing caps, VP lockouts, HH Torquemaster spool, UD gears.. Done.
Way cheaper, just as strong! Plus the added benefit of a 13mm bearing (which lasts Way longer then stock) and better/tighter gear mesh, with the Dlux housing.
 
The Currie axles are indeed very strong, as is everything VP makes. The extra price over their aluminum AR60 housing is due to being an official licensed product.

Reversing the ESC and motor has no effect at all, unless you are running a brushed motor with advanced timing. In which case you would want to retard the timing the same amount as the advance, so when run in reverse signal it still has the advance. Brushless is a non issue, it is just how the signal is interpreted.

The plastic housings hold up fine. I have had them on my Wraith for 2 1/2 years now. In that time I have broken several stubs on the front and even broke a vp knuckle, but the housings are still the ones I built from the kit.

It boild down to budget and personal preference. If my budget allowed, I would have the Curries under everything, I love the looks!

The DLUX housings and Truss are a great option, bullet proof and the truss is just bad ass artwork in functional form!
 
... except VP cms for scx10... I've seen two break in the last month.
But at least they take care of their people.
The broken posts were spaced free of charge.
 
Hard to beat the strength and looks of a Currie. "thumbsup"

ODOIamG.jpg


If you go the plastic route do yourself a favor and get the Dlux housings. On a side note I saw three stock housings break in my local club last year, one on a Yeti, two on a Wraith.
 
Hard to beat the strength and looks of a Currie. "thumbsup"

ODOIamG.jpg


If you go the plastic route do yourself a favor and get the Dlux housings. On a side note I saw three stock housings break in my local club last year, one on a Yeti, two on a Wraith.

They really look great, I will have a set someday under my next trail rig project. But that is a long term project with a ton of body work needed. At least a year out before I have to worry about the cost of 2 currie axles.
 
i am adding this to the stock housing to strengthen the plastic housing with minimal investment. still will need the alum lock outs

Welcome to Beeftubes.com - Welcome to BeefTubes.com


That's a great way to go about it my man. What you should do if it's in the budget is to add a Dlux U4 rear truss. It ties everything together very nicely and would make it as bullet proof as an aluminum housing. "thumbsup"
 
That's a great way to go about it my man. What you should do if it's in the budget is to add a Dlux U4 rear truss. It ties everything together very nicely and would make it as bullet proof as an aluminum housing. "thumbsup"

Sounds like a great suggestion. i am having a hard time finding it, happen to have a link?
 
That's a great way to go about it my man. What you should do if it's in the budget is to add a Dlux U4 rear truss. It ties everything together very nicely and would make it as bullet proof as an aluminum housing. "thumbsup"

Not only does it tie everything together nicely and strengthen the axle as a whole. It just looks bad ass. Artwork in truss form.





Mine is cut from G10 rather than CF, Erik says it is even stronger than CF and, well, I'm me... Strong is good!
 
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I went with the rc4wd aluminum ar60, comes with lockouts and aluminum locker brackets(exact name?) for about 80 bucks off eBay.
Fit and finish is excellent and not having to purchase lockouts and brackets are a bonus
 
I have VP housings.. There stronger.. But.... If I wouldn't of for a steal on them, I wouldn't own them..

With that said.. Dlux modded stock housings are the way to go..

My parts list: Dlux modded housing, beef tubes, VP bearing caps, VP lockouts, HH Torquemaster spool, UD gears.. Done.
Way cheaper, just as strong! Plus the added benefit of a 13mm bearing (which lasts Way longer then stock) and better/tighter gear mesh, with the Dlux housing.

As much as you "baby" your rigs, how would you know if those parts will be durable??? :lmao:
Just messing with ya T!!! "thumbsup"
 
gcm in canada make a centered rear diff for the yeti with the 5x13x4 pinion bearing option and is so clean give it a look litle pricey but so hot
 
Found out tonight my LHS has centered curries for the beat deal ever!
I know what I'm doing tomorrow...
 
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Integy center diff and GPM off-center. I've used them both and now have a Vanquish off-center (not the Currie).
 

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Buy cheap, buy twice. Stick with the quality stuff, VP for the win.

 
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