Ramination's FJ40 Buggy Build

[Ramination]

solution to hide motor: boatside skid plates.

what was the problem with the Grip Fab locker vs the Locked Up spool?

I'm glad you asked, I forgot I was going to do a small blurb on that.

First I want to say that I do really like the Grip Fab locker, it looks/feels well made. I had two issues though, neither of which are the fault of Grip-Fabs but actually due to the fact that I tried putting it in a SCXR axle (SCX10 axle modified with XR10 knuckles, hubs and axle shafts). As you can see in the pictures in previous post, I bought the "Grip-lok" version of their locker lineup, the version which uses set screws to literally lock the axle shafts into place (which when installed makes an insanely tight axle by the way). The first issue I had, which I didn't realize until I was installing, is that these are great for an axle with a removable diff cover, but without it installation is a bit more tricky. Remember, the front piece of the axle goes into the c-hub, so you have to have the axleshafts installed and tightened down with the locker in place before you can put the front of the housing on, which you must do before putting on the c-hubs. This may be OK for people using CVDs or regular SCX axleshafts, however, I use modified XR10 shafts which will not let the c-hub slide over the XR10 shaft and into position.

My second issue with the Grip Fab is 100% my own. Once again, I use the XR-10 axle shafts up front, which require modification to fit. When I did this mod, I (unknowingly of course) cut them just short enough that the Grip-Fab set screw barely grabs onto it. Literally a few mm more and I would have been OK; like I said this issue is all my own and specific to this axle. If I was to do it again I could work around this issue.

The FI Spool didn't give me these issues due to the slide in design. I am sure the Grip-Fab V2 or V3 (or whatever versions don't require the set screws) would work great too, but the FI Spool was in stock at RPP and I was looking to burn some bills. :mrgreen: The Grip Loks will stick around though, and I will try them again in another rig.


One other thing that I would like to point out is that the Grip Lok weighs in at 12g, same as stock Axial, whereas the FI Spool is 25g. Whether or not the extra weight of the FI is a good thing or not is up to you. It's not much, but it is there.

 

[Ramination]

The velcro wasn't working as well as I'd like it to for holding down the hood, so I am going to try something new this weekend. I made it so the rear of the hood slides under the dash bar, and the front is held down by four earth magnets.

I had planned on glueing the magnets in place, but the 5/16 hole I drilled was a perfect press fit for the magnets.

 

[Ramination]

Another week, another broken axle housing.

Had ~1.5 hours runtime on housing before it broke off, very similar break to the last housing. The zip ties held it together better than nothing, but it was a disappointment for me, I was really looking forward to beating the crap out of the 40 this past weekend!


I thought the first one was just a fluke, but twice in 3 runs...it is time to fix this. Must decide between either metal housings, or narrowed AR60s...

 

[MIKO]

Metalheads.

 

[ROWDY RACING]

Your supposed to put screws in beef tubes on the end towards the pumpkin.

Second post in beef tube thread.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axle...ard-beef-tubes-theyre-back-price-updated.html

 

[Ramination]

I did. :ror:

 

[ROWDY RACING]

I did. :ror:

Front and back, before you broke it the first time?

Thread says only the backside after it broke the first time.

 

[Ramination]

No, first time I did not have that done. Post 64 in here I put one in to get me through the next day and did it to this housing too, but only on the backside. I had never seen that it is recommended until that link you posted, though. I do not remember that part of the instructions from when I bought them way back?

On this housing the front part of the housing under the c-hub cracked and minutes after that happened it cracked off the back and spun the housing despite the screw in there. I'm ready to move towards a better/more scale looking hosing anyways, so this is the perfect excuse. :mrgreen:

 

[ROWDY RACING]

All the comp guys have put screws in the front and back for years and I have never seen a failure with the steel ones. When properly installed they will take a beating.

 

[Falon]

Narrowed ar60's FTW!!!

 

[elsewhere]

I've got close to 50 hours on;
HARD PUSHED scx housings
Ground down xr axles
PLASTIC wraith chubs
Vanquish xr knuckles

I really don't know HOW you boys all break ur stuff so much!!

 

[ROWDY RACING]

I really don't know HOW you boys all break ur stuff so much!!

Improper install. :ror:

 

[MIKO]

Shit happens in 17deg weather

 

[ROWDY RACING]

Shit happens in 17deg weather

Yeah cold does make plastic snap easier, but I think with those extra screws in there it would be ok. Even narrowed plastic ar60's can break without properly installed beef tubes.

 

[MIKO]

Yeah cold does make plastic snap easier, but I think with those extra screws in there it would be ok. Even narrowed plastic ar60's can break without properly installed beef tubes.

My gripe is that if you manufacture them and know that they turn invincible with two extra mounting points, why not drill and tap them from the beginning. I didn't even know about this until tonight and I have them front & rear on both rigs

 

[ROWDY RACING]

My gripe is that if you manufacture them and know that they turn invincible with two extra mounting points, why not drill and tap them from the beginning. I didn't even know about this until tonight and I have them front & rear on both rigs

Because if the tubes were drilled and tapped you would never drill a hole in the axle housing that would line up with them, so you drill through both at one time, directions are in the vendor thread.

I would not say invincible either, nothing is invincible.

 

[elsewhere]

Guys, I live in Minot ND..
17* or not I watch guys in fla break stuff on a 90* day..

Maybe I'm not playing hard enough haha!

 

[Ramination]

I've got close to 50 hours on;
HARD PUSHED scx housings
Ground down xr axles
PLASTIC wraith chubs
Vanquish xr knuckles

I really don't know HOW you boys all break ur stuff so much!!

I see what you are saying, but I drove the FJC 102 hours last summer in Austria (don't judge me) on the same equipment and I didn't have a single failure...and the stuff wasn't even close to new before I went over there. It's a nature of the beast thing...the FJ40 is a different animal. I push it way harder because it does go fast, and I have fancy King shocks that make me want to jump it. :mrgreen: And now since I've added the spools and 500oz of steering to the list I am not sure plastic anything is suitable. Hell, the axles are the only plastic on this whole rig as it is anyways...time for a metal on metal! :twisted:

 

[MIKO]

:twisted: