Project SR-71: A Stealth R1 Build

[bikerzee24]

thos panels look good man. did you mount them with double sided tape?...and I love the water too. when Ifirst got my r1 that'sthe first thing I did was make sure it was waterproof, and submerged it as soon as I got a chance....yours almost looks as good as mine...lol jk

 

[derb]

Panels are mounted with cable ties. I grabbed the smallest black ones out of my mates toolbox and drilled some holes in the panels. I'll get some close ups of them for you. I'm liking your rig too, stealth bros. "thumbsup"

Some better pics of the CF panels.

 

[bikerzee24]

Nice man, looks real clean with those panels on there, makes me want to change mine up now.

 

[SMiTHBRo]

I wouldn't be too worried about the scratches on the roof either, crawlers need battle scars.

 

[bikerzee24]

Yeah I have plenty of battle scars, hence the idea of putting on the body panels....

 

[derb]

Roof is getting pushed in more and more every time I roll it, I guess I should see the good side in that it's lowering the centre of gravity lol.

 

[bikerzee24]

Roof is getting pushed in more and more every time I roll it, I guess I should see the good side in that it's lowering the centre of gravity lol.

Yeah I know exactly what your talking about, my roof was "U" shaped before I put the panels on. I had to bend it back straight before it got worse. Plus that was when I was a rookie crawler and flipped over on almost every obstacle.

 

[SMiTHBRo]

I do believe you should fabricate some kind of bonnet hump. Will make the truck look so much tougher!

 

[Postclanker]

Pretty neat rig Derb....

 

[derb]

Yeh it needs some more body definition. Now that the last comp is over I'm gonna tear it down and put CF on the inside of the chassis plates as well to fill it out rather than the whole see-through/x-ray thing going on now. Plus I have to drill the chassis for better shock mount points. Also something I should have looked up, but the wheelbase on this rig is shorter than a stock Axial SCX10! Some longer links will have to happen soon too. No wonder it wouldn't scale walls, both this and CC01 wheelbases are too short to fully compete with an SCX10/Sportsman rig.

 

[bikerzee24]

Yeh it needs some more body definition. Now that the last comp is over I'm gonna tear it down and put CF on the inside of the chassis plates as well to fill it out rather than the whole see-through/x-ray thing going on now. Plus I have to drill the chassis for better shock mount points. Also something I should have looked up, but the wheelbase on this rig is shorter than a stock Axial SCX10! Some longer links will have to happen soon too. No wonder it wouldn't scale walls, both this and CC01 wheelbases are too short to fully compete with an SCX10/Sportsman rig.

That sounds like an awesome idea, post up the part numbers on what links you go with and if you have to change out your driveshafts to longer ones or not. I think the gmade would look so much better with a longer wheelbase. I been wondering what lengths to go with so i could lengthen mine up a little bit and then lower the center of gravity a little too...plus if i get longer links i can use the olds to build another r1 for my fiance to drive...just have to convince her to let me spend the money on one for her....hopefully next summer...and of course Derb make sure we see some pix when you lengthen those links.


So I was looking at what links to go with and i think I will probably go with the CKRC Heavy Duty Middle Bent Links :

https://www.ckrccrawlers.com/ckrc-heavy-duty-middle-bent-links-2-p-1620.html

And if i need them I will use the hardened universal J90028 Hardened Universal Shaft for Axial Honcho:

https://www.ckrccrawlers.com/j90028-hardened-universal-shaft-for-axial-honcho-p-4709.html

These shafts are 107mm-142mm instead of the ones made for the gmade that are 95mm-130mm, I think the longer shafts will be a must when trying to extend the r1 to longer lengths. I am still unsure which upper links to go with on this...any input would help, even sometime today since I am trying to order them today so I can get them this week and install them before xmas.

 

[derb]

Oooo those bent links look very nice. I'll need to do some measuring as we will be running a 'scale class 3' class next year for Wraiths and I've been OKed to mix it with them, but I need to keep the wheelbase as long or shorter than a Wraith so I can still compete. I saw your post as well with the Wraith links and they do indeed look very sexy, especially with the rig all drooped like the one in the pic. I think I'll keep an eye on your thread and try some things early next year.

 

[derb]

No major progress as I have been rather broke the last few months. Still running in the local social comps and myself and another fella with a Wraith have been setting up and running an 'Outlaw 2.2' class as lots of our local guys have Wraiths and want to crawl with them instead of just bash them.

This weekend has been nothing but cyclonic rain here in Queensland, Australia so I've had nothing but time to mess around. Finally rebuilt the rear axle with the sealed Avid bearings I bought last year. I must say I'm very, very impressed with how watertight the axles are. There was not a single spec of dirt past the far outer bearing and I've had this thing submerged in muddy pools and creeks on an almost fortnightly basis. I used the Gear Science rc gel and because it has a very tiny nozzle I could lay the gel into each and every groove of every gear. There was no damage or wear on any of the gears too, but now it feels smooth as silk. My buddy flogged some of them though for his SCX10, so I have another order in with Avid so I can rebuild the front axle and gearbox.

Now that I am 'back in the money' so-to-speak I have a nice list of upgrades planned. Mostly steering upgrades:-

-GMade 7 degree c-hubs
-CKRC Wheely King knuckles
-RC4WD Wheely King XVDs
-Gmade adjustable upper link mount

The following gear is required for the Outlaw 2.2 class I mentioned:-

-Axial high clearance Wraith links [using these to replace the lower links will give me an extra 1" of wheelbase, about 2-3mm short of the stock Wraith wheelbase which is the limit in our Outlaw 2.2 class]
-GMade 3x light bar [minimum 2x lights are required for the Outlaw class]
-RC4WD Bulldog 9300XT winch [winching through gates is legal in Outlaw]
-CKRC no-drift winch controller for 2-pos radios [keeps the winch line taught at all times, no slack in the line to get caught up when you drive faster than the winch is pulling you]
-RC4WD pull pal winch anchor

 

[bikerzee24]

Sounds like you got some good plans set ahead for your rig man, looking forward to seeing some pix of the finisehd project. I wish I had some decent weather, I can't really go rock crawling when all the rocks are covered in a foot of snow. I was able to widen the stance of my r1 with the 13mm wheel wideners, and those make it look nice.

 

[Smithysride]

That's a real sweet rig. Does it go very fast or is it just setup to crawl? Do you happen to know what the transmission ratio is and what spur/pinion gears you are running?

 

[derb]

It's way too slow actually, barely keeps up with my walking when at full throttle. It will always be setup to crawl though, I'm not really into the 'basher' scene. No idea on the trans ratio, but it's a 12t pinion and I'll count the teeth on the spur when I open the transmission up again in the next few days.

 

[bikerzee24]

Wow Derb, really to slow to walk with?....what turn motor are you running?...I went from the 45t to a 35t integy motor on mine and i think I kept it at a 12t pinion and it goes just over my walking speed for trail riding. My ratio may be much different than yours though since I'm using the RC4WD R2 Tranny.

 

[derb]

Crappy RC4WD 55t motor with the stock 12t pinion. I think the gear ratios in the GMade transmission are quite a bit shorter than a standard SCX10 transmission. I've picked up a brand new Team Trinity Speedgems 35t last night and I'm hoping it's going to be as fast as I want it to be. Otherwise I'll find a nice 27t motor and get a 9t pinion.

The rig is totally torn down at the moment while I rebuild. Going to drill higher shock mounting points on the Stealth chassis to drop the whole rig down a lot. Going to copy HRDROKN as per this post, http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/g-made-crawlers/385094-hrdrokns-r1-build.html#post3771434.

 

[bikerzee24]

nice, I am still contimplating on drilling new hole in my chassis to raise the mount points for my shocks. I still haven't been able to put the piggybacks to a full test run yet. I think you will get plenty of speed out of a 35t and still keep your torque, if it does go too fast all you'll need to do is change up your pinion until the speed satisfies you. I think i changed my pinion out when i went to the 35t and it is just perfect for me walking and for wheel spins on rocks when crawling.

 

[chbronco]

Drooped front,sprung rear did you try other combos? might try.