• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

New to the Losi Comp Crawler or Losi Night Crawler - Post your questions here!

gmade wideners work good, you can run them with stock pins but you can also drill out the axle and run thicker axial pins for more strength and lessen the slop at the widener
 
Picked up a uses NC rtr.When turned on the esc blinks red 4 times then goes dark.Truck does not move.Any help would be great!
 
hey guys, so I have a NC that has a motor that is just about shot. so Im upgrading. doing some research I went with this:

Amazon.com: Novak 3028 18.5T Goat 3S Crawler BL System: Toys & Games

better steering servo:
Amazon.com: Hitec 37955S HS-7955TG Ultra Torque Titanium Gear Digital Servo: Toys & Games

the BEC: (is there any instruction sheet on how to hook this thing up to the servo/ESC?)

Amazon.com: Castle Creations CC Bec 10A 6S Switching Regulator: Toys & Games

I also need new wheel weights so I got a buddy hookin me up, tires are good, ill run it till the links break then ill upgrade them, I also got 2 sets of HD comp worm gears just in case. and now I need a battery. want to go li-po. I like the Gens Ace batteries, Ive got one of them in my stamede and its awesome. with that motor/esc/servo/bec what would be good to run? the novak system says its good for 3S, but how many cells? and the MaH?

thanks!
 
My roommate is running a LCC with a Goat3s & 18.5 Ballistic.. so many issues with the slipper clutch..think it's dialled in now after there weeks of tinkering. So he bought it used and it was set on zero reverse delay..it was twitching out so we recalibrated the tx and esc.. and it only lets me chose between profile 1 or 2.. neither of which give instant reverse.. so how do I get it back..and exactly how adjustable is the goat3s seems like my tekin fxr has much more programming options..
Thanks for any help on a right that is not mine
Zed
 
My roommate is running a LCC with a Goat3s & 18.5 Ballistic.. so many issues with the slipper clutch..think it's dialled in now after there weeks of tinkering. So he bought it used and it was set on zero reverse delay..it was twitching out so we recalibrated the tx and esc.. and it only lets me chose between profile 1 or 2.. neither of which give instant reverse.. so how do I get it back..and exactly how adjustable is the goat3s seems like my tekin fxr has much more programming options..
Thanks for any help on a right that is not mine
Zed

So it had instant reverse before you recalibrated it? If the motor is not a crawler specific Novak, you won't be able to get instant reverse. If it is a crawler specific motor, I'd check the sensor wire to make sure it's correctly plugged into the motor and ESC.
 
Does anyone have any info on lower links to give more clerance? and measurements?

A lot of people make their own bent links. If you search "bent links" in the forum search plenty of how to's should come up. The cheapest and easiest way is probably to use 8/32 threaded rod, 1/4 inch brake line, and traxxas revo rod ends. Measurements are unique to the individual rig. All i did was measure my factory links eye to eye and then drew a straight line on a small piece of cardboard. Then i drew a bent link the way i wanted it to turn out using those same ends using 2 straight lines. Measure those 2 straight lines from the eye point to where they meet and you can get your overall length etc. Hope this helps
 
Last edited:
So it had instant reverse before you recalibrated it? If the motor is not a crawler specific Novak, you won't be able to get instant reverse. If it is a crawler specific motor, I'd check the sensor wire to make sure it's correctly plugged into the motor and ESC.

Yep is was a little tiny wire disconnected. All the complexity of his setup really makes me like my scx10 with an fxr and cc bec 10amp way more than all that brushless BS..
Thanks for the help bro
 
anyone else get hung up on the diff? I would love some portals... bigger tires are always an option but unless theyre a lot bigger than stock NC tires...or a lot grippier..
 
Losi diffs are some of the highest clearance ones out there, if you are hanging them up where you are crawling, youll hang up almost any axle. That being said check out some new tires for a bit more clearance. Rover white dots are the pick for most they come in aroun 5.5 inches and the white dots are a softer stickier compound. They do end up being considerably taller than the stock claws.
 
sweet, I will have to look into them, my area there is a ton of rocky areas, so I need some that are bigger and harder? my stock claws get pretty chewed up.
 
I cant speak from experience but HB Sedonas seem to have a beefier lug to them so durability wise I would think they are a bit better. I run rovers and havent seen them get chewed up at all yet with a couple dozen packs through them.
 
Are there any aftermarket aluminum hopups like lock out and c hubs for the LNC? What parts interchange with the LNC from other crawlers? Any bodiless chassis being produced as of yet? Just picked up a like new LNC and wanted to take off running with it.
 
Are there any aftermarket aluminum hopups like lock out and c hubs for the LNC? What parts interchange with the LNC from other crawlers? Any bodiless chassis being produced as of yet? Just picked up a like new LNC and wanted to take off running with it.

Any of the LCC hop ups work on the LNC. Really the only difference between the two is the no dig tranny among other plastic parts (links, ect). The axles and frame are the exact same. It is like the RTR version (LNC) vs the Factory Team Version (LCC), you can hop up the RTR to the FT. Hope that makes sense.

I actually use the LNC drive shafts in my LCC. Love them. I have heard that the factory guys (that are left) use the LNC steering linkage also.

There are some bodiless chassis that can be retro fitted for the LCC, but pretty sure there are none specific. Well, the Phoenix, but I think they are discontinued. Really, I have not looked into it too much, because the stock chassis is working so well for me. AND, it is mostly relegated to the sportsman class (where you have to run a body). I run mine (with out dig) in Sporty class and love it.

My suggestion. Make sure that the worms are lubed, and there is as little friction in the driveline as possible. Then run the wheels off of it, till something breaks, then upgrade. I love mine.
 
Are there any aftermarket aluminum hopups like lock out and c hubs for the LNC? What parts interchange with the LNC from other crawlers? Any bodiless chassis being produced as of yet? Just picked up a like new LNC and wanted to take off running with it.

As detonmac said there are a bit of aftermarket aluminium hop ups like chubs, knuckles, motor mount for lcc, ect. Personally I run a underground crawlers fastback chassis, which is bodiless. It is made for the ax10 but can get a plain skid and drill it yourself. It goes great but is a tight fit with the LCC trans. But the stock chassis goes great and it isn't a necessity to change.
 
Great info guys. Normally I would have gotten flamed for this kind of questions. The reason for the bodiless chassis is meer looks. I have always wanted a custom looking tube rig. As for the worm what are you refering to exactly? Also, what are comman things to go first as far as factory parts? Thanks again guys.
 
Back
Top