New to the Losi Comp Crawler or Losi Night Crawler - Post your questions here!

[marco70]

I understand what you are saying about the different ratio of the worm/spool affecting the final drive ratio. You are correct, it will produce more wheel speed, but they are designed to reduce friction and run smoother. So the torque that was lost with the old inefficient worms/spools is gained back with the efficiency and wheel speed of the HD worms. It is a must do upgrade. Hope that makes sense.

One thing that had produced really great results for me. HD gears in the front axle and stock in the rear. It causes the front to turn faster than the rear. Which makes climbing easier as well as reduced turning radius. I have been very pleased with the results.

Please let mw know if that does not make sense.

hi,
I understood everything
thanks for the response, immediately purchased the full kit (Worm HD). follow his advice, install (HD Worm forward) and (Worm standard back)

a greeting.
marco.

 

[Olle P]

But, if you purchase used (speaking from experience), tear it apart and make sure everything is lubed and in good working order. It is a great way to learn the rig.

Strange advice to come from you, since you just before pointed to my advice on reducing friction... ;-)

I'd say (speaking from experience) that the advice is to tear it apart and make sure everything is good, no matter if it's used or brand new!
My factory built LCC had most (all?) screws overtightened, which hampered the performance!

 

[Olle P]

What spur pinion too run, I'm going to be crawling on basically all surfaces.

Depends on the motor, as pointed out before.
The LCC with a 35T brushed motor runs well with a 12 teeth pinion, might go as high as 14 teeth.
My LCC with a 17.5T brushless can handle a bit more. Haven't had the opportunity to test it properly yet, but I estimate the sweet spot to be in the 16-20 teeth range.
For a Night Crawler you can roughly double these numbers, because that gearbox has different gearing.

And what battery should I run?

I'd recommend "one that fits".
The LCC's battery tray isn't the most universal for battery fitting, but Turnigy 1600mAh 2S 20C Losi Mini SCT Pack fits like a glove.
Also if you make a new tray to rest on the upper links many batteries will be to long or to thick.

Regarding the dig function: Using it is supposed to make the crawler easier to drive an more capable. (I've never tried.)
Using it in competitions means competing in the same class as MOA crawlers.

 

[christianewing]

Thank you for your help Olle! I cant see the classifieds for some reason but I am on the lookout for a LCC.

 

[dentonmac]

Strange advice to come from you, since you just before pointed to my advice on reducing friction... ;-)

I'd say (speaking from experience) that the advice is to tear it apart and make sure everything is good, no matter if it's used or brand new!
My factory built LCC had most (all?) screws overtightened, which hampered the performance!

Thank you for the check up from the neck up. I stand corrected! With all the 'new in box' LCCs being New Old Stock, that IS really a good idea. I was remembering that mine came out of the box pretty friction free and ready to go. But that was YEARS ago. I purchased one recently that was pretty trashed, that is what I was remembering.

Thanks, Olle. I sure was not thinking straight.

 

[Hardline]

Don't know if I want to go with the LNC or the LCC. Night crawler is easy to find and comp has dig. I'm not sure. Haha, guess I will wait until I get to 30 post to see the classifieds.

You need to decide what you want to do with it. There's an RC crawling club down in San Diego. If you want to eventually participate in their monthly comps you'll probably want to run shafty class and that means no dig. You could still run the LCC with the dig disconnected, but it's heavier and not as low geared as most prefer. So might as well start with an LNC. But it doesn't really matter because within one season you will have modified or changed out so many parts no one will know if you started off with an LCC or LNC. If you really catch the bug, within a year or so, only the axles will be original. :lmao:

Kinda depends on your current experience level. If this is your first ever crawler, I think the RTR LNC makes sense. If you prefer to step into the deep end, a used LCC, RTR or roller is fine. Just be aware not everything off the classifieds arrives the way you envisioned. A lot of people keep the good stuff and sell the junk. But they never call it junk. Your classifieds access will probably switch on as soon as a moderator checks your 30 posts and throws out any junk posts. ("Cool rig, dude")

 

[Olle P]

I agree with Hardline.
In fact, I'd rate the Night Crawler a bit higher than the LCC.
- The dig is something you probably won't want for competitions, and then the LNC gearbox is better.
- The LNC's battery tray is awful when it comes to vehicle balance, but will take most battery packs. The LCC's battery tray is very picky when it comes to accepting batteries. They both need replacements, either by a tray on the upper links or one on the front axle.
- LNC come with dog bone shafts, LCC has CVD. There are pros and cons with both options, and a replacement is no sweat.
- LNC come with plastic links, LCC has aluminium. The plastic links work well! For the lowers you'll probably want replacement bent links in the future anyway.
- LNC comes with a pre painted body. While it's nice to have your own paint job, there's still some money to pay up front to get the paint and equipment required to apply it!
- LNC comes with electronics. Not the best around, but it will help you decide what upgrades you want and spread the spendings over time. When I bought my LCC I spent as little as possible on the electronics, and it's only the radio and BEC I still use out of the initial parts.

If you get something 2nd hand some/all of this doesn't apply.

 

[dentonmac]

You need to decide what you want to do with it. There's an RC crawling club down in San Diego. If you want to eventually participate in their monthly comps you'll probably want to run shafty class and that means no dig. You could still run the LCC with the dig disconnected, but it's heavier and not as low geared as most prefer. So might as well start with an LNC. But it doesn't really matter because within one season you will have modified or changed out so many parts no one will know if you started off with an LCC or LNC. If you really catch the bug, within a year or so, only the axles will be original. :lmao:

Kinda depends on your current experience level. If this is your first ever crawler, I think the RTR LNC makes sense. If you prefer to step into the deep end, a used LCC, RTR or roller is fine. Just be aware not everything off the classifieds arrives the way you envisioned. A lot of people keep the good stuff and sell the junk. But they never call it junk. Your classifieds access will probably switch on as soon as a moderator checks your 30 posts and throws out any junk posts. ("Cool rig, dude")

Big X2, adding to that. If you choose the LNC, and later on decide that you want the dig. The LCC tranny is a simple swap. Pretty much everything is interchangeable between the two.

I currently am running my LCC in Sportsman with the LCC trans. I have the dig servo and forks removed. It is serving me very well, but I am currently deciding if I want to go to the LNC tranny since it is sportsman comp rig. That would mean I would have LNC tranny and driveshafts. Frame the same, axles the same. Making me think I should of started with the LNC (but it was not out at time of my purchase).

 

[VG3]

I have a lnc and my steering is really bad it started to get worse over time, the only thing I upgraded was the metal steering link.any help would be wonderful

This is my steering now null_zpsc66a21d3.jpg Photo by Tylervanguilder | Photobucket


This is where it should be
null_zps8bc982be.png Photo by Tylervanguilder | Photobucket

 

[dentonmac]

I have a lnc and my steering is really bad it started to get worse over time, the only thing I upgraded was the metal steering link.any help would be wonderful

This is my steering now null_zpsc66a21d3.jpg Photo by Tylervanguilder | Photobucket


This is where it should be
null_zps8bc982be.png Photo by Tylervanguilder | Photobucket

First welcome to RCC!

I assume that it is the stock servo. Well I would bet that the servo is on its way out. Even when it was brand new the stock one was only 140oz (I think). Really you need something over 300oz. Have had great success with the Hitec HS-7945TH. It is a little on the weak side, but has been very reliable.

Not going to venture a suggestion, but something over 300oz is what you need shoot for.

Hope it helps.

 

[Olle P]

What dentonmac forgot to add was that the stronger servo needs a separate power feed.
Either you get a "high voltage" type servo and feed it straight off the battery or you'll need a separate BEC that can deliver 3-5A continously at 6V.

 

[VG3]

First welcome to RCC!

I assume that it is the stock servo. Well I would bet that the servo is on its way out. Even when it was brand new the stock one was only 140oz (I think). Really you need something over 300oz. Have had great success with the Hitec HS-7945TH. It is a little on the weak side, but has been very reliable.

Not going to venture a suggestion, but something over 300oz is what you need shoot for.

Hope it helps.

Thanks for the welcome, should I get a bec and see if that fixes it or just upgrade my servo?and what is a good cheap servo?

 

[Olle P]

A BEC alone won't help you.
If low cost is an important factor then TowerPro MG995 (or is it 995MG?) is probably the way to go. Those servos are cheap due to low production quality. The result is that any one individual servo can be anything from "dead on arrival" to "great".
Some people on this forum swear by them, others swear at them...

For a cheap and good BEC I use (and recommend) Turnigy 3A UBEC with noise reduction. (Others will probably scream "CC BEC", but I think that's overrated unless you need higher voltage.)

 

[WAM]

It's MG996R now and can be had off EBAY for $6 shipped from China. About double that from a US source. I keep a few on hand to give away when my buddies break, or to swap into mine just for troubleshooting purposes. they're 10 kg/cm which is somewhere in the mid 200's in-oz (?). Okay, not great. As cheap as they are, be sure to take a spare with you.

 

[jgrim]

I have a lnc and my steering is really bad it started to get worse over time, the only thing I upgraded was the metal steering link.any help would be wonderful

These are pretty fundamental checks to make, but I will mention them anyway.
1. Have you checked the end point adjustments on your transmitter?
2. Is there a lot of slop in the gear train on the servo? If so, a replacement servo is about the only solution.
I have been using a stock LNC steering servo in an SCX10 rock racer that I built for a couple of years now. It has been surprisingly durable. Jerry

 

[MattyJ603]

Traded an SCB for a slightly modded LNC for my son. Put in an XL-5 ESC, stock motor, metal links, and he couldn't be happier! He is running a Onyx 5000 Mah 25C Lipo and the motor and ESC gets pretty hot, pretty quick. Would this not happen if he switched to a NiMh or is it because he's is working it on the rocks pretty hard?

 

[Olle P]

Brushed motors do get hot with worm drives, period.
To reduce the load on the motor you should use a lighter battery, about 1000mAh LiPo, and consider using a smaller pinion as well.

Not to forget reducing the friction as much as possible!

 

[MattyJ603]

Thanks Olle P. I am looking for affordable battery options, while at the same time, started in on the DFL treatment in all the right places.

 

[Nitro_Geezer_UK]

Whats the axle ratio of a stock comp crawler? Iv searched the forums and net and can only find the HD ones at 21:1

 

[Riddler6.7]

Believe its 25:1

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