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New idea thread?

its in here somewhere, but a generic married scale motor and tcase would be nice. offer different scale components to make the motor a ford, or chevy, or even a smaller one for the yota guys? be sure you can clock the t-case so guys can run it on the "correct" side-


L.R.
 
its in here somewhere, but a generic married scale motor and tcase would be nice. offer different scale components to make the motor a ford, or chevy, or even a smaller one for the yota guys? be sure you can clock the t-case so guys can run it on the "correct" side-


L.R.

I'll never give up hope that someday this will happen. Still wish I had the one I paid Eritex for when he left with all of our money...:evil:
 
its in here somewhere, but a generic married scale motor and tcase would be nice. offer different scale components to make the motor a ford, or chevy, or even a smaller one for the yota guys? be sure you can clock the t-case so guys can run it on the "correct" side-


L.R.
Ahhhhh a man can dream can't he? I'd love this too.
 
Now that the EXO is making a comeback in the form of IFS Wraith builds, I would be nice to see some VP Caster blocks to go along with the knuckles. I would rather buy yours instead of STRC's.
 
A diff cover for ar60s that have an output for a pinion gear, to do multi axle rigs with the ar60 axles.
 
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12mm hexes would be nice. Because after 2 battery packs through the pro4 powered wraith, the stock axial ones have so much slop at the pin.
 
12mm hexes would be nice. Because after 2 battery packs through the pro4 powered wraith, the stock axial ones have so much slop at the pin.

This may sound dumb, but are you sure the wheel nuts are tight? Reason I ask is once I went to the pro4, the wheel nuts have been hard to keep tight, trying some serrated wheel nuts ATM. I also spun a hex in a Pro Line wheel, but my axial clamping hexes are fine though.
 
This may sound dumb, but are you sure the wheel nuts are tight? Reason I ask is once I went to the pro4, the wheel nuts have been hard to keep tight, trying some serrated wheel nuts ATM. I also spun a hex in a Pro Line wheel, but my axial clamping hexes are fine though.

Yea I stop about every 10 to 15 minutes and check them. You are right they do come loose pretty often. I don't have the clamping style hexes I have the standard hexes. The problem is that the slot that the pin in gauges gets widened out and then you get a lot of slop.
 
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Yea I stop about every 10 to 15 minutes and check them. You are right they do come loose pretty often. I don't have the clamping style hexes I have the standard hexes. The problem is that the slot that the pin in gauges gets widened out and then you get a lot of slop.

If you get the clamping hexes, it will solve that problem. What happens is when the wheel nut gets a bit loose, it allows the wheel to back off the hex slightly, which allows it to wobble around and get wallowed out by the pin. I'll let you know how the serrated wheel nuts hold also, haven't had a chance to run them yet.
 
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