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Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

Hi Gents

"Axels out of phase"

Can someone help me understand this better? I'm a noob so not savvy on the mechanical side. If possible a step by step? Much appreciated.....
 
Loaded up the Nashbar SS 29er and moved to a better crawl spot! Radio stayed put all the way out on dirt fire roads and single track...even the rocky rooty spots didn't shake it loose. Then the return trip mostly on paved path was no problem at all.





Put some flat pedals back on, I wanted to hike around easily while crawling, not with carbon soled bike shoes lol.





Ascender fastened to Camelbak with velcro straps (like battery strap, but longer and wider). I used 8" length Black Hook and Loop (Frys.com #3358942, Manufacturer: THE, UPC #050286806056, Model #20-8-0), but Fry's Electronics has them in 6" and 12" too. It took three of the 8" put together to hold transmitter to the stem and bars.
FRYS.com | THE





It was dusk and the nearly full moon was rising early









Star of Bethlehem?
“Star Of Bethlehem” Visible on June 30th for the First Time in 2,000 Years. | elephant journal







Need to get headlights and rocklights, I was wearing small LED headlamp for light




The moon


Is this by the American River bike trail? I used to live right by there. MTB and RC cars....My two favorite things!!!!"thumbsup"
 
Not a bad deal at all.

Great deal on TODBLDZ machined aluminum rear upper link risers with lots of adjustment holes and nice thick metal that shouldn't break. "thumbsup"

Looking good nate i like my risers

LIFE IS GOOD

Me three! :ror:"thumbsup"

This video explains really well what happens. Although this is a full size vehicle, the basics are the same.

Basically the yokes on your drives shafts should be inline and at the same angle as each other.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmV4qwLfOMY

Thanks guys for the great help! 8)"thumbsup"

Is this by the American River bike trail? I used to live right by there. MTB and RC cars....My two favorite things!!!!"thumbsup"

Yes. Yes. Two of my faves too. :ror:"thumbsup"
 
Hey Nate, I had to pull the axial sway bar off as it was really killing the articulation of the rear end. I was curious if you ran into that and if you did, how you worked around it. I ended up getting longer screws to further outboard the shocks and it's seemed to help somewhat. I'm wondering if I am using the stiffest sway bar (never got my micrometer out to check).
 
Hey Nate, I had to pull the axial sway bar off as it was really killing the articulation of the rear end. I was curious if you ran into that and if you did, how you worked around it. I ended up getting longer screws to further outboard the shocks and it's seemed to help somewhat. I'm wondering if I am using the stiffest sway bar (never got my micrometer out to check).

I recently dealt with this issue myself. I few weeks back, I had a day where my Ascender just started acting like it was made of Velcro. It was an amazing day of crawling where I was able to hit a lot of lines that I was not able to before. In my next maintenance session, I noticed that the wraith swaybar had broken right at that thin spot in the middle. I have been crawling without it since and have seen a noticeable improvement in crawlability without a swaybar in the mix. My Ascender is over a year old now, well broken in, and still using the stock kit shocks.
 
I have seen this myself.....my nephew has a stock unit.he has made a couple sections at our local spot that I have an issue with....with that being said,when it comes to almost vertical climbs,his will lift the front tire and flip over.mine will make those climbs.its all personal preferance.
 
Hey Nate, I had to pull the axial sway bar off as it was really killing the articulation of the rear end. I was curious if you ran into that and if you did, how you worked around it. I ended up getting longer screws to further outboard the shocks and it's seemed to help somewhat. I'm wondering if I am using the stiffest sway bar (never got my micrometer out to check).

I used the softest Axial swaybar (the one with the largest notch machined in the center of the bar) and it works but is little too stiff. The stiffest bar is way too stiff for the Ascender, I made a replacement bar out of piano wire, by grinding the flats on both ends. My bar is thinner and flexes a bit more, but I want to make a thinner one for little more flex.

I recently dealt with this issue myself. I few weeks back, I had a day where my Ascender just started acting like it was made of Velcro. It was an amazing day of crawling where I was able to hit a lot of lines that I was not able to before. In my next maintenance session, I noticed that the wraith swaybar had broken right at that thin spot in the middle. I have been crawling without it since and have seen a noticeable improvement in crawlability without a swaybar in the mix. My Ascender is over a year old now, well broken in, and still using the stock kit shocks.

I have seen this myself.....my nephew has a stock unit.he has made a couple sections at our local spot that I have an issue with....with that being said,when it comes to almost vertical climbs,his will lift the front tire and flip over.mine will make those climbs.its all personal preferance.

It's a trade off anytime you make suspension changes, that's why I'm going to make an even thinner swaybar. "thumbsup"
 
I'm trying new bars too.I'm using losi 22 sway bars.just put thickest on kennys truck.I'm going to try middle on my new rtr.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
 
Just a question as i'm yet to put my hands on an ascender, has anyone tried twin hammers swaybars? or are they incompatible due to measures?
 
Need to put some lights on that Ascender so you don't have to shine a flashlight at it while driving at night.

Done long time ago, headlights and red rocklights start on page 7 "thumbsup"
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vaterra-ascender/538944-natedogs-vaterra-ascender-7.html

Just a question as i'm yet to put my hands on an ascender, has anyone tried twin hammers swaybars? or are they incompatible due to measures?

I haven't tried them, I did try Slash swaybars and they are not ideal. So far best is Axial Wraith front swaybar kit using the thinnest bar, thinner is even better which is why I made my own bar to go with the Axial arms and links. "thumbsup"
 
Cool - I remember the piano wire you mentioned previously. I'll see if I can come up with something.
 
Racer,
Just looked them up, how wjde are they from end to end? The diameters look much better (thinner) for controlling TT while getting good flex. I see there are kits for the 22-4 and 22SCT, which are you using? Looking forward to your results and input.

Kit for Losi 22-4:
Sway Bar Kit, Front & Rear: 22-4 (TLR334006): Team Losi Racing

Kit for Losi 22 SCT:
Sway Bar Kit, Rear: 22SCT (TLR334002): Team Losi Racing
Hey Nate I'm using the 2wd sct set,for kennys truck I did just a quick setup cause he may want them off.I'll post up some pics in a but.
 
Here's some pics of this setup,like I said just a quick pop on.he way not like it.losi goes by color code for sizing.
e1d2f451a730fe4ade5c3d5c1023f67b.jpg

Kennys has the thickest
935567ce1ebde81ae8354aa923bfd978.jpg

733431838f4abfd2878c36e727ab46fd.jpg

These are from a gen 1 22 sct tuning kit.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
 
Cool - I remember the piano wire you mentioned previously. I'll see if I can come up with something.

Looking forward to what you come up with!

Hey Nate I'm using the 2wd sct set,for kennys truck I did just a quick setup cause he may want them off.I'll post up some pics in a but.

Thanks, that 1.6mm is about 0.063" which is thinner than I'm using and probably just about ideal. Mine needs to get a little more rear flex imo.

Here's some pics of this setup,like I said just a quick pop on.he way not like it.losi goes by color code for sizing.

These are from a gen 1 22 sct tuning kit.

Thanks, nice geometry at ride height and bar is up out of the way and away from the shocks. "thumbsup"

EDIT: You could drill small holes in the tops of frame rails and use some VP or whomever's aluminum servo clamp brackets to secure the bar to the frame rails.
 
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