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Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

Have an Axial front sway bar kit coming my way - thanks for the info! How cold was it in those pictures? I bet it warmed up quickly once the sun came up(does that out here).
 
Excellent and you're welcome, looking forward to updates as you go! Didn't check a thermometer, I've been colder and I've been warmer, this was chilly but not so cold that you wake up every 30 minutes because you're freezing cold even in a good sleeping bag. Yes, it warmed up to hot by mid-day and watch out for sunburn. :ror: "thumbsup"
 
In camp K10 slider mod with a couple lighters, because the bottom of this cab and bed are at least 1/2" higher than the Blazer. :)





 
In camp K10 slider mod with a couple lighters, because the bottom of this cab and bed are at least 1/2" higher than the Blazer. :)






Sliders look great, and way to think outside the box with this mod. Sorry I didn't get to your SS ones, Maybe we can talk about them when we see you on our trip!!"thumbsup"
Ernie
 
That K10 is looking awsome mate! Im loving that yellow too, just different enough from the RTR yellow.

Thanks mate, that's what I was going for bright but little different. "thumbsup"

Sliders look great, and way to think outside the box with this mod. Sorry I didn't get to your SS ones, Maybe we can talk about them when we see you on our trip!!"thumbsup"
Ernie

Thanks, and thanks brainstorming as a group at the picnic table during morning coffee. That's ok, sounds good and looking forward to seeing you! "thumbsup"

New rear shocks built with 5mm internal and external limiters to test on rear of K10. External limiters are some old Losi JRX2 nylon nuts Rit dyed black.




Better picture of K10 front bumper after trim. I'm sorting through the Lunsford site catalog for some higher clearance HD front steering links, looks like 4x132mm with stock plastic rod ends and draglink above the knuckle will be the ticket. ;-)




Blazer rear bumper before and after.




Rear Blazer bumper mounted, I'm going to trim the rear body little more so that it doesn't hang below the bumper. :ror:



 
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Awesome idea on the bumpers. I'm for sure going to do it to my new truck since I've tucked and cut the body up already.
Ben
 
Rockhugger bumper mod looks awesome on both rigs!!!
I like that you brought them in closer to the chassis a bit as well... The unstoppable just got... Pause... More unstoppable!!!
 
Awesome idea on the bumpers. I'm for sure going to do it to my new truck since I've tucked and cut the body up already.
Ben

Credit to Rockhugger, do yours yet? "thumbsup"

Rockhugger bumper mod looks awesome on both rigs!!!
I like that you brought them in closer to the chassis a bit as well... The unstoppable just got... Pause... More unstoppable!!!

Thanks, I ended up with some leftover shock pistons from the parts bin as the only front bumper spacers (about 2.5mm thick) and 10mm rear bumper spacers. "thumbsup"









 
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I've been working on maximizing suspension up travel (compression) and steering on my K10. Near full compression with stock RTR servo and with Hitecs, the tie-rod interferes with the servo horn. Notice the slightly different deck height of these three servos, it's only millimeter or three, but makes a difference in tight quarters. Here's pic from left to right (tallest is Hitec 7950, shortest as measured from mounting tabs to top of output shaft is Spektrum) Spektrum S605 RTR servo, Hitec HS-7950TH, and HS-7955TG. I'm now switched to HS7950TH.




The chassis servo mounts, servo is supposed to go underneath (servo output closest to the ground), but it will also fit on top (servo farthest up in the chassis and away from the ground), and the mounts can be flipped too (EDIT: I checked and it's unnecessary to trim the mount where it fits inside the frame channel), then the servo can again be mounted under or over the mounts thus providing two slightly diffferent heights for the servo! I'm been looking for 2.6mm buttonhead screws to fit Hitec output shaft, but no luck. Glad that the new standard is going to 3mm servo output shaft screw to retain the servo horn.

EDIT: Researched and found 2.6x8mm buttonhead machine screws with hex drive (not phillips) are harder to find, ordered couple packs of Axial AX31373 2.6x8mm buttonhead mahcine screws!!! This should get me about 1mm extra clearance. 8)

I ordered several packs from RPP Hobby:
http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ax31373.htm

A-Main Hobbies has them:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/axial-...1373/p510540?gclid=CLDZiNP-ss8CFcmOfgodqLsC0A

Tower Hobbies has them too:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFZVS&P=FR&gclid=CPndq-H-ss8CFQ52fgodWJwIfw






Servos vary greatly in dimensions and when I had the slightly smaller HS-7955TG installed, I used a pair of 2mm spacers behind the right servo mount to get it perfectly aligned with the servo mount tabs (shown with HS-7950TH which will fit perfectly without the 2mm spacers).




Showing Axial 2mm spacers inside right frame rail.




Spacers removed and HS-7950TH installed.

 
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Notice that full left steering the panhard mount screw hits the right steering knuckle slightly. Turn the screw around (nut to rear, head forward), then steering will get a few more degrees, nut clears shock spring and it's easier to get a wrench on it. I used a thinner Axial locknut p/n AXA1052 for a little extra room, love those nuts and stocked up on them. Note that the steering servo is mounted on top of the mounts. ;-)
Before:




After:

 
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Hitec HS-7950TH fitted with Axial clamping horn, steering draglink to top right steering knuckle, clears everything and is almost zero bumpsteer! Few different picture angles to show everything going on. This is all mocked up and working, but will probably change some Looking at Lunsford approximately 4x132mm titanium link tie-rod with standard Vaterra Ascender ball ends at both ends, giving max ground clearance and strength. Draglink is currently leftover Axial AX-10 kit rod (will measure and post later) with Traxxas ball ends, but will prolly also go with Lunsford ti turnbuckle for fine adjustable tuning. Servo mounts are going to flip and servo on top (to lower servo slightly), then install Hudy high clearance slightly longer horn for better steering throw and tiny lower CG. 8) "thumbsup"






Sitting on the tires at ride height.




Suspension completely un-weighted with tires off the ground.




Full compression, nothing hits anywhere, servo horn clears frame rail etc.!



 
Thats very cool. I was looking at mine, but it looks like the outboard drag link ball ends will rub the tire with it mounted on top of the steering arm like that. Are your rims spaced out to give clearance???
 
Thanks, looks that way, but it clears. My rims are not spaced out at all, but I have looked at drilling and tapping some little wider shortcourse truck front aluminum hexes if it needs more clearance later.
 
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Thanks, looks that way, but it clears. My rims are not spaced out at all, but I have looked at drilling and tapping some Traxxas 2wd Slash front aluminum hexes if it needs more clearance later.

Very nice write up Nate, you always have those wheels turning in your head!"thumbsup"
Ernie
 
Hitec HS-7950TH fitted with Axial clamping horn, steering draglink to top right steering knuckle, clears everything and is almost zero bumpsteer! Few different picture angles to show everything going on. This is all mocked up and working, but will probably change some Looking at Lunsford approximately 4x132mm titanium link tie-rod with standard Vaterra Ascender ball ends at both ends, giving max ground clearance and strength. Draglink is currently leftover Axial AX-10 kit rod (will measure and post later) with Traxxas ball ends, but will prolly also go with Lunsford ti turnbuckle for fine adjustable tuning. Servo mounts are going to flip and servo on top (to lower servo slightly), then install Hudy high clearance slightly longer horn for better steering throw and tiny lower CG. 8) "thumbsup"






Sitting on the tires at ride height.




Suspension completely un-weighted with tires off the ground.




Full compression, nothing hits anywhere, servo horn clears frame rail etc.!





Hi nate!
This looks very good "thumbsup" :)
 
Very nice write up Nate, you always have those wheels turning in your head!"thumbsup"
Ernie

Thanks, yes sir! "thumbsup"

Hi nate!
This looks very good "thumbsup" :)

Thanks! "thumbsup"


De-cased my original RTR Blazer ESC to remove the power switch, it's another point of failure and I just un-plug if it's going to be sitting for few minutes. It was kinda difficult to get out, almost broke off two of the plastic case tabs because the pcb is potted right into the lower case. Second and newer ESC got done next and case popped right open, they had used less potting. Would be nice if they were conformal coated instead, takes up less room, can be removed to solder new wires on the board and then re-applied afterwards. Seems like conformal coating would be cheaper too.

Case opened, power switch cut off, wires shortened, stripped, twisted together, soldered, bent over neatly and coated with E6000 to waterproof the soldered ends against corrosion and short circuit.




After, case closed up and bolted back on chassis.




Was curious and weighed Blazer body (with E6000 and drywall tape reinforcing, lights and wiring). Doesn't look like it, but it's balanced on the scale and not touching the table: 10.60 ounces
K10 body (with E6000 and drywall tape reinforcing, spare tire attached): 14.0 ounces






Bought set of rear upper link riser mounts from DoubleDzRCs, look nicely made, painted black and shipped for
You will need 3mm longer screws and a 3mm spacer at the rear of the battery tray. Note: These go between the frame rail and the slider mounts (which is what the battery tray bolts to).
They're $23 shipped USPS with tracking. Contact Todd on RCCrawler, pm userid: TODBLDZ to purchase.

 
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